One of the questions I generally get asked aback addition finds out that I analysis restaurants: what’s the strangest affair you’ve anytime eaten? Allowance loin tartare, served by chef Joseph Shawana at his new Davisville restaurant, Kū-Kŭm Kitchen, would be appropriate up there. The allowance meat was a abhorrent midnight black, wet and alien, topped with the agitation yolk of a raw blanch egg. It tasted of alkali and iron, bringing to apperception ice floes, after-effects adopting a mineral chrism on bouldered shores, and a diet of cod and krill. Paul McCartney won’t be admiring to apprehend I admired it, admitting not so abundant that I’d appetite it to supplant steak as Toronto’s tartare of choice.
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Seal, raw or cooked, makes a big statement—until now, I’d never met a chef adventurous abundant to serve it. Shawana spent months researching and vetting federally adapted allowance suppliers; he begin one that flies in flash-frozen agrarian allowance loin every anniversary from arctic Quebec and Newfoundland, area anniversary bartering hunting quotas accumulate the allowance citizenry stable. Kū-Kŭm is a restaurant with a aesthetics of showcasing what Shawana calls the “whole ingredient,” by which he agency application what’s readily accessible and apropos the antecedent of our nourishment— Mother Nature. He’s a angel of foragers, and Indigenous fishers and hunters. It’s his acutely claimed cast of locavorism.
He’s also, not insignificantly, authoritative a case for Indigenous cuisine, which has been near-invisible in this city, at atomic aback chef Aaron Joseph Bear Robe shuttered Keriwa in 2013. Kū-Kŭm is amid a scattering of Indigenous-owned restaurants that opened in the accomplished year. At Kensington’s Pow Wow Café, which is the home abject for a aliment barter that’s accepted at music festivals, there’s a alteration card of Ojibwa “tacos” that are in actuality open-face sandwiches of buttery bannock accumulated with a baby acropolis of your best of ambrosial meat, additional disconnected cheddar and beets, acerb cream, herbs, and nasturtium petals. It’s a acceptable atom for lunch—I’ve enjoyed the begrimed pulled pork with an Ontario birthmark soda. NishDish, which is run by the accouterment chef Johl Whiteduck Ringuette, afresh took over the Koreatown bend aforetime active by Tacos el Asador. You sit at continued common tables beneath a hand-drawn beam mural assuming the 13 moons of the Anishinabe calendar. A chalkboard lists abundance aliment like venison bouillon and candied potato–leek soup, none of which I can agilely recommend, abnormally not the bland, soggy-bottom veggie quiche or a bloom of angled alloyed greens. Of these new places, Kū-Kŭm is the best aggressive and exciting.
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Shawana, who is 35 years old, was aloft by his Odawa ancestors on the Wikwemikong Unceded Reserve on Manitoulin Island. (“Unceded” because the reserve’s tribes did not assurance a accord with the government.) A dishwashing job at the age of 13 led to affable positions at confined and golf advance clubhouses. In 2006, absent bigger opportunities, he confused to Toronto. He adapted at Herbs Bistro, the Windsor Arms and Pusateri’s, and took on bigger roles affable for crowds at the Rogers Centre and the Direct Energy Centre. He ramped up his accomplished dining accomplishment set as Corbin Tomaszeski’s sous-chef at the now-defunct C5, the briefly ablaze restaurant in the ROM. Best recently, he served as controlling chef at Snakes and Lattes, the acknowledged lath bold café-bar with two locations, area you’ll stick out if you’re not in a Magic: The Gathering tournament. Playing Dungeons and Dragons for hours on end makes bodies hungry. In 2016, Ben Castanie, the buyer of Snakes and Lattes, encouraged Shawana to plan a appropriate one-off card for Aboriginal Day. The two accomplished they were assimilate article aback it awash out, and afore continued they’d active the charter for a midtown area aforetime active by the alehouse Mogette.
“Kū-Kŭm” is Cree for grandmother. The restaurant is, in several respects, a accolade to the women in Shawana’s life. Over the bar there’s a hand-painted mural by the Indigenous artists Monique Aura and Chief Lady Bird depicting Shawana’s grandmother, his mother and his mother-in-law. He tweaked the compound for his grandmother’s cake-like bannock by aspartame it with maple syrup—to bigger accompaniment smoked and convalescent fish. He additionally serves a acceptable Three Sisters soup of corn, chicken beans and squash. Yet abreast from those two recipes and that mural, you ability not apprehension you’re accommodating in a anniversary of Indigenous cuisine. Best of Shawana’s card would fly at Canoe, the chic Canadiana restaurant aerial in the TD tower, or at Antler, Boralia or Montgomery’s, area the locavore affable follows the seasons. Shawana’s ability is to seamlessly braid his favourite Indigenous capacity and recipes calm with a archetypal French approach. (“I’m aggravating to acquaint my story,” he told me over the phone, acceptation he’s not activity to pretend he hasn’t been afflicted by his time at the brand of C5.) His bowl of preserved cattail hearts and milkweed pods, with a apply of asset jam, hits the alkali trend currently across-the-board the city. He flatters the gaminess of venison arbor chops with fiery nasturtium leaves, fruity hibiscus leaves and a aged purée of broiled onions. A pheasant and fair barley stew, brightened by a white wine sauce, is both aloof and elegant, like a adorned pot pie filling. The standout is a bowl of elk, which he roasts afterwards a spell in a sous-vide ablution with bandbox tips and juniper, and serves with fingerlings and a buttery purée of artichoke. The abysmal backwoods scents serve as a admonition of area the barbarian already roamed.
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His alloyed access to ambrosia is beneath successful. A argument ice chrism balances acidity and creaminess, but doesn’t charge to be brindled with coriaceous broiled berries. And he infuses the chrism of a crème brulée with sweetgrass (he forages his own), admitting it mostly tastes of its over-burnt caramel shell. My adopted ambrosia advantage is absolutely an appetizer, a lettuce-free bloom composed of a alluvion of rose hip–flavoured aerated chrism covered with agrarian blackberries, strawberries, blueberries and comestible flowers. A Manitoulin reinterpretation of an Eton mess, it was one of the prettiest and tastiest plates of the summer.
The added catechism I get asked generally about reviewing restaurants: do they apperceive you’re coming? The acknowledgment is no. I let my banquet dates accomplish our reservations, and I analysis anonymously. But it can be catchy to go disregarded at a baby abode like Kū-Kŭm, area there’s alone the one server, who happens to be one of the best blithe and personable in the city. I risked a additional appointment beneath than a anniversary afterwards my first, which would usually accession suspicions. She remembered me appropriate abroad but affected I was from the neighbourhood. A lot of barter are advancing aback to try aggregate on the menu, she told me. Shawana’s admirers can’t get abundant seal.
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Kū-Kŭm Kitchen ★★★581 Mount Pleasant Rd. 416-519-2638, kukum-kitchen.com
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