The carve "Mountain," a 1937 allotment by Aristide Maillol,… (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles…)
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It's 1922 and annihilation abundant is up in Pasadena. Not amidst the orange groves, not forth the abounding streets. Aloof as the little old ladies like it.
But wait. Bottomward in the Arroyo Seco, a aggregation has aloof started putting up some affectionate of stadium. On Pepper Street, Mallie Robinson's 3-year-old son may already be assuming signs of amazing athleticism. Over at Polytechnic School, a alpine 10-year-old called Julia McWilliams is developing the aftertaste and aggressiveness that will accomplish her America's best-known chef.
That's right, the Rose Bowl, Jackie Robinson and Julia Child all came up in allegedly asleep Pasadena about the aforementioned time, and 90 years later, this charcoal a advantageous reminder: This western bend of the San Gabriel Basin and the breadth abreast it can fool you. Beyond the calmness at the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens, abaft all those handsome old Craftsman facades, there's no cogent what the active minds and bodies of this basin will appear up with next. Earthquake measures. Exploding dumplings.
Begin your own explorations with these 10 micro-itineraries for Pasadena and its environs. This is the 11th chapter in our yearlong alternation of Southern California Close-ups (the others are at latimes.com/socalcloseups). We will wind up the year on Christmas with a attending at Hollywood.
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To see why the Arroyo Seco is so axial to the Pasadena accompaniment of mind, accompany the early-morning dog-walkers for some active striding forth South Arroyo Boulevard abreast Arbor Street, area admirable old copse belfry aloft admirable old houses. On your way in and out, attending up at the beautiful old U.S. courthouse (125 S. Admirable Ave.) and brainstorm aback it was the Vista del Arroyo Auberge or, afore that, Emma Bangs' boardinghouse. You won't be able to absence the 1912-13 Colorado Street Bridge, bigger accepted amidst locals as "Suicide Bridge" for affidavit you can imagine. Now, for a afterpiece attending at Craftsman appearance — woodsy buildings, art glass, affluence of asphalt and artery but no Victorian adornment — footfall into the iconic Gamble Abode (4 Westmoreland Place), advised by Charles and Henry Greene in 1908. It opens for tours four canicule a anniversary and has a abundant bookshop in the garage. From adjacent sidewalks, you can additionally see the 1901 Charles Sumner Greene Abode (368 Arroyo Terrace); the 1906 Cole Abode (2 Westmoreland Place); the 1909 Hindry Abode (781 Prospect Blvd.) and Frank Lloyd Wright's 1923 La Miniatura, which looks like a Mayan boscage temple (645 Prospect Crescent).
For a lot of best art in a baby place, you can't exhausted the Norton Simon Architecture (411 W. Colorado Blvd.). It begins out advanced with "The Burghers of Calais," Rodin's 1884 brownish anniversary of ballsy yet animal politicians (yes, you apprehend that right). It continues central with a murderers' row of European and Asian artists, including Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Hiroshige. Then there's the handsome garden and pond in back. For a salad, sandwich or dessert, zip west beyond the Colorado Street Bridge to Little Flower Candy Co. (1424 W. Colorado Blvd.). Feeling renewed? Arch about a mile east to the Pacific Asia Architecture (46 N. Los Robles Ave.) or the Pasadena Architecture of California Art (490 E. Union St.), which angle about the bend from anniversary other.
In Old Pasadena, bulk of civic chains absorb the celebrated facades forth Colorado Boulevard, and sidewalks are abounding with pedestrians day and night. To acquisition acquaintance merchants and eateries, analysis the old brick alleys and ancillary streets or assurance assimilate a Melting Pot Food Bout (www.meltingpottours.com). Don't absence the kid-friendly accessible art in alleys and the courtyard of the One Colorado complex. For added art, see the Armory Center for the Arts (145 N. Raymond Ave.). For banquet and conversation, try Blooming Street Tavern (69 W. Blooming St.). For alive jazz, Red White Bluezz Applesauce Club (70 S. Raymond Ave.). For a active meal in a affably adapted alternation station, avoid into La Grande Orange (a.k.a. the LGO Base Café, 260 S. Raymond Ave.), which neighbors a alive Metro alternation stop. Distant Lands (20 S. Raymond Ave.) will advertise you biking books, and further east on Colorado Boulevard, Vroman's (695 E. Colorado Blvd.), which dates to the 1890s, will advertise you "Hometown Pasadena" (an accomplished guidebook) or aloof about any added book. The adjacent Pasadena Playhouse (revived by defalcation about-face in 2010) stands in an atmospheric 1920s architecture at 39 S. El Molino Ave. For caffeine and Mexico-boho atmosphere, there's its neighbor, the Zona Rosa Caffe (15 S. El Molino Ave.).
Now advancing 90, the Rose Basin is in the average of a renovation, but the sports continue. Besides hosting the Rose Basin football bold every January, the amphitheater is home acreage for UCLA football. And on the additional Sunday of anniversary month, the Rose Basin Flea Bazaar materializes with its antler lamps, punch telephones, abecedarian art and best fishing poles. It'll amount you at atomic $8 to get in (they said flea, not free), but it is epic. Meanwhile, the surrounding Brookside Esplanade draws legions of runners, walkers and cyclists, who amphitheater a aisle of three-plus miles. Adjacent you'll acquisition Kidspace (480 N. Arroyo Blvd.), a participatory architecture for children.
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Shopping South Lake Avenue is like surfing: Someone is activity to acquaint you how abundant bigger it was afore you came. And activity was absolutely acceptable in the '90s, aback retailers thrived and the Huntington auberge and Ritz-Carlton were linked. But now is not bad. The above Ritz, now the Langham Huntington Pasadena (1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave.), stands on 23 genteel acreage and specializes in spa indulgences and ablaze anniversary decorations. Its adorned restaurant, reborn as Royce in backward 2010, has gotten able reviews, and brief ante sometimes bead beneath $200. Your arcade starts with the old Bullock's architecture (401 S. Lake Ave.), a 1947 Streamline Moderne battleground that now holds Macy's. The neighbors accommodate Orvis (345 S. Lake Ave., No. 102) for fly-fishers, Anthropologie (340 S. Lake Ave.) for adolescence and Ten Thousand Villages (567 S. Lake Ave.) for buyers of fair-trade art and crafts. Leave time for zucchini aliment at Blooming Street Restaurant (146 S. Shopper's Lane) or the nouveau cafeteria cuisine of Lemonade (146 S. Lake Ave.). Then airing off the calories amidst the fountains and arches of the Caltech campus (1200 E. California Blvd.; Olive Airing bout searchable at http://www.caltech.edu), area the Richter calibration was born. To fit in, acquaint bodies you still absence the synchrotron, a apparatus for accelerating electrons. It was dismantled in 1970.)
There's a charlatan or a horse lover in every family, right? If it's antagonism division (Dec. 26-April 22), booty him, her or them to Santa Anita Esplanade (285 W. Huntington Drive, Arcadia), area Seabiscuit already galloped to celebrity and the appearance of the San Gabriels is anxiously gorgeous. Horses usually run Thursdays-Sundays. For aloof the amount of breakfast, you can watch aboriginal workouts (from 5-10 a.m.) from Clocker's Bend at the west end of the track. In the afternoon, for $5 developed admission, you can watch the contest or amble abreast the paddock and area as horses, jockeys and trainers prepare. If it isn't antagonism season, arch arctic to comfortable Sierra Madre, esplanade on East Miramonte Avenue abreast Arctic Mountain Trail Avenue, and backpack the aboriginal 1.3 afar of the Mt. Wilson Trail, which will jump-start your affection and accord you a big view. Then about-face about at Aboriginal Water, appear bottomward and bomb on a couch at Bean Boondocks coffeehouse (45 N. Baldwin Ave.) or beanery some bootleg ice chrism at Mother Moo Creamery (17 Kersting Court). For a acquaintance souvenir, accomplish the two-minute drive to E. Waldo Ward & Son (273 E. Highland Ave.), a ancestors business (with bake-apple trees, red barn and Victorian house) that has fabricated and awash jams and jellies aback 1891. Wind up with a arrant banquet at Wistaria (44 N. Baldwin Ave.).
Tired of people? Try peacocks and cycads instead. At the 127-acre L.A. County Arboretum & Botanic Garden (301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia), you can do that, audit reflections on Baldwin Lake and apprehend up on the life, times and wives of bounded avant-garde Lucky Baldwin, whose acreage this already was. Aback you get hungry, bethink that there are hundreds of Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants forth the added Asian capital drags of adjacent San Gabriel, Alhambra and Monterey Park. But you accept world-famous dumplings aural 1.2 miles, so you're headed to Din Tai Fung (1108 and 1088 S. Baldwin Ave.). Din Tai Fung is a all-around restaurant chain, built-in in Taiwan, and the affinity Arcadia restaurants are its alone California outlets. Servers buzz into wireless headsets and barter generally delay in band (no anxiety taken) for a adventitious at the abode adaptation of xiao continued bao — aflame dumplings abounding with pork and broth, 10 for $7.50 and explosively flavorful.
Start in hipster-heavy Eagle Rock, aloof west of Pasadena, with a abundance breakfast at Auntie Em's (4616 Eagle Rock Blvd.). Swing accomplished tiny Occidental College (two blocks east at 1600 Campus Road), area the Marx Brothers filmed "Horsefeathers" in 1932 and apprentice Barack Obama advised from 1979-81. Then it's time for Forest Lawn Memorial Esplanade (four afar west at 1712 S. Glendale Ave., Glendale), which is a cemetery in the aforementioned faculty that Hearst Castle is a house. Begun in 1906, these 300 acreage of rolling blooming hills accommodate added affected Michelangelo sculptures and celebrity graves than any abode abroad you'll acquisition all week. Humphrey Bogart. Walt Disney. Nat King Cole. Casey Stengel. Shortly afterwards his afterlife in 2009, Michael Jackson arrived, followed in aboriginal 2011 by Elizabeth Taylor. Management gives no celebrity admonition and keeps abounding comatose spots abaft bound doors, but you'll get affluence of hints from http://www.seeing-stars.com. And you'll accept no agitation award the little architecture or the Abundant Mausoleum, area Jackson and Taylor are both accounted to be, and area you can watch the curtains allotment to acknowledge Leonardo Da Vinci's "The Last Supper," as reproduced in decrepit bottle by Rosa Caselli Moretti. It's beyond than life, of course.
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South Pasadena (picture Mayberry with yoga) may affect daydreams about affective in. But first, get breakfast at Heirloom Bakery (807 Meridian Ave.). Stroll on awful walkable Mission Street, Meridian Avenue and El Centro Street, and maybe breach for a bite at Buster's Ice Chrism & Coffee Stop (1006 Mission St.). If it's Thursday afternoon, bolt the farmers bazaar on Meridian amid Mission and El Centro. Then retire to your room. Where? Perhaps the Arroyo Vista Inn (335 Monterey Road), a genteel hillside bed and breakfast at the top of a continued driveway. It has nine comfortable bedrooms in a 1910 Craftsman. But there's no pool, and it's not a acceptable best for children. If you accept kids, attending at the Bissell Abode (201 Orange Grove Ave.), a busy Victorian on the Pasadena/South Pasadena bound with a basin in back. From there, it's a half-mile to to banquet at the Raymond Restaurant (1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena).
When in San Marino (median domiciliary income: about $159,000 a year), why not loll like a 1-percenter? Accept an affected breakfast at Julienne (2649 Mission St.) or get a meal to go from its gourmet bazaar and arch for adjacent Lacy Park, a 30-acre ambush of alpine copse and paths adapted to alpha bicyclists. (On weekends, there's a $4 fee for nonresidents 4 and earlier so you ability adopt abate Garfield Park, which is about as abutting at Mission Street and Esplanade Avenue in South Pasadena.) Either way, leave affluence of time for the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Area (1151 Oxford Road), area Thomas Gainsborough's 18th aeon "The Dejected Boy" painting and 120 acreage of area accept continued been big attractions. Analysis those out (especially the Desert, Chinese, Boscage and Children's gardens), but don't stop there. In the library, you can eye a Gutenberg Bible and a Charles Bukowski manuscript, both in the aforementioned room. In the American art collection, booty a acceptable attending at the ocean in Edward Hopper's 1935 painting "The Continued Leg." Who knew this civil adventure would accompany you to the best beaming dejected sea ever?
chris.reynolds@latimes.com
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