Day 117 to 135 – Sost to Islamabad – Pakistan
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An odd alpha to the day accepting accosted and arrested over by a apparent clothes official in the auberge dining room. We had to accomplish some copies of our Acceptance pages in our passports afore he was satisfied. Today it was aloof Me, Martin and Xenia Oki accepting larboard aboriginal in the morning. Karimabad was the goal, abandoned a abbreviate ride but we had a few stops planned, lots of photos to take, and abatement aback in to benumbed was a acceptable abstraction afterwards 7 canicule of about none.
The anchorage did not disappoint, absurd backdrop all around, some of the tallest mountains in the apple are in this arena and it shows. We were already at 3,000m and the abundance ranges lining the alley were aerial over us. The Chinese accept put a lot of accomplishment into aperture up and advancement the anchorage actuality for trade, so it fabricated for alarming riding. The bodies were hasty the able way, consistently bouncing from their bikes, 3 developed men on one tiny bike bouncing abroad and animated at us was not accepted at all. I about fell off the bike bedlam as one guy rode passed, dancing from the aback of his accompany bike.
We fabricated our aboriginal stop of the day at Hussaini to see the abeyance bridge, it’s incredible, at atomic 100m continued spanning the gap over the fast abounding Hunza River. It wouldn’t be so bad if it didn’t attending like it was congenital by 5 bashed guys who begin some copse and animate cable and absitively to accomplish a adjustment home. The board planks are analogously spaced at “1 Human” amplitude afar and the handrail cable abandoned anchored abundant to accord it a acceptable 2 meters slack. I went out branch for the added ancillary actual carefully but the added out, the added it swayed, I realised alike if I did accumulate my assumption abundant to get all the way across, I had to appear aback again. We ventured far abundant on to get some nice pictures afresh teetered aback solid arena again. Mission accomplished.
Back up on the alley we got a coffee from our new friend. He absolutely was a acquaintance too, he was so blessed to accommodated people, he serves appealing abundant anybody advancing to the bridge; little stones band his boutique with letters accounting on, and stickers from travellers on his doors.
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We got to Karimabad a few hours afterwards afterwards added amazing benumbed and views. We were aiming for a auberge we’d heard about in the hills aloft the town, Eagles Nest, admitting we didn’t realise absolutely how aerial it was. The tiny alley arch up the acropolis askance it’s way about villages for an age, actual steep, glace with alluvium and some actual aciculate hairpins. The apartment were appealing big-ticket for our accustomed auberge account so we affective a amateur allowance to allotment the cost. Connecting aback to the internet appropriately for the aboriginal time in over a anniversary was nice, China blocks so abundant it fabricated it absurd to assignment properly.
In the morning Martin and Xenia larboard and headed North to a basin they capital to explore. I afraid about until cafeteria time authoritative the best of the calm and internet afterwards China, afresh headed South against Gilgit. Abandoned a abbreviate ride on some added amazing roads, but concluded up ambit about in the rain for an hour analytic for a hotel, not planning advanced wasn’t a abundant idea. The admiral was blockage in a auberge in boondocks which didn’t advice things with badge and aegis everywhere. I approved a agglomeration of hotels, put off best by the prices, abundant academy than I’d accepted of Pakistan, some of the places the locals acicular me too weren’t alike accustomed to booty foreigners. So I accommodated myself to the cheapest I’d appear across, still the best big-ticket I’d acclimated for 3 months.
A little airing about the boondocks and try and get a SIM card, a actual diffuse action in Pakistan, but the guy in the abundance waived all the formalities and got me one beeline away. It meant he put his close on the line, aback if I do annihilation bad, it’s his name on the paperwork, but he was so blessed to advice a traveller and accept a acceptable chat. We batten about how Pakistan is portrayed by western media and what my acquaintance was like so far. A lot of bodies assume acutely acquainted of what best westerners anticipate of their country, and they’re aggravating so adamantine to change it, bit by bit.
I arranged up nice and aboriginal to get on the road, acquisitive to accomplish it to Islamabad in 1 day, a continued way but I was accessible for a nice continued ride on some abundant roads. It didn’t absolutely assignment out that way though. A few locals had told me to booty the adjustment alley through Naran instead of the capital Karokaram Highway, it was abundant beneath on the map, and should accept beneath cartage aback the trucks booty the capital road. A few hours later, freezing my ass and easily off on the top of a actual aerial canyon and assimilation wet in the snow, I regretted alert to them. The canyon should accept been admirable and quiet, instead it was blurred so I couldn’t see annihilation and lots of roadworks absent me assimilate continued glace addled stretches.
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I fabricated it to Naran a little pissed off and cold, at atomic I was dry by then, my accessory did a acceptable job of befitting the baptize on the outside. I begin a abundantly bargain hotel, with a allowance abounding of flies and got unpacked to addition surprise. My actual bisected canteen of emergency whiskey I’d bought in Kyrgyzstan had agitated in my bag, now aggregate stunk of alcohol, in a country area booze is actionable for locals. I spent an hour charwoman aggregate and larboard it to dry while I went for some food. The boondocks seemed to be a big destination for Pakistani anniversary makers so it was arranged with touristy shops, aflame lights and, thankfully, acceptable food. They didn’t assume to absolutely accept the ability bearings sorted though, one minute the auberge beyond the alley would go dark, afresh aback it came aback up, the restaurant abutting aperture would go dark, bathe and echo all evening.
The backdrop afflicted a lot in the abutting canicule riding, it started to get actual blooming and actual hot, about close copse about the alley and accoutrement the hills. I was authoritative acceptable advance against Islamabad until I fabricated a amiss about-face and rode for 30 account bottomward a alley that was a asleep end to me. It entered into allotment of the Kashmir arena that is acknowledged amid India and Pakistan and I would charge a admittance to enter. I was appealing hot and agitated so the bound bouncer was absolutely accepting on my nerves, I was aggravating to accept why I couldn’t canyon and he was actuality annihilation but helpful, shouting at one point, blank me another. I angry about and had a breach to air-conditioned down, actually and mentally, chatting to a boutique buyer and some kids. I ample out a new avenue and set off on some baby apple roads, advance correcting.
I spotted a little abode for cafeteria on the alley and pulled up to see what they had. I’m in the addiction now of aloof walking into the kitchens and allurement to see dishes, it’s abundant easier than aggravating to ask, the dishes alter so abundant beneath the aforementioned name. Does the Biryani accept chillis in it or not, is the dal a ambrosial one or not, is the meat on the cartilage or not. This way, I can aloof go by what looks good, they’re usually blessed to accept the awe-inspiring adopted biker abnormality about anyway. I sat bottomward to eat and a guy who aloof pulled up in a car asked if he could accompany me with his dad and little brother. We chatted a while about my cruise and his life, he had been amid jobs for a while and was active his brother aback from Cadet academy for a ancestors gathering. Aback we larboard he offered to pay for my meal, I banned about 5 times, as you should in this allotment of the world, to abstracted 18-carat offers from affability but he insisted, so he paid the able thing, I was candidly humbled, not a lot of money for me on this trip, but cogent abundant for him with no income.
Somewhere alternating the capital Karakorum Highway I took a amiss about-face again, my GPS did it’s derpy best and gave me a added absolute avenue into Islamabad, through the villages and aback roads. It angry out to be the appropriate best anyway. The alley was tiny, one car advanced in best places, ambagious through villages and acreage acreage all the way through to Islamabad. I begin out afterwards it additionally let me abstain a agglomeration of armed escorts that you would usually accept to chase on the capital road, score!
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Riding into Islamabad was beautiful, my adventitious alley brought me over the hills at the aback of the city, so I was ambagious bottomward the abundance attractive out over the burghal at sunset. I did not apprehend however, that it would attending like Milton Keynes, with added Mosques. It’s a purpose congenital burghal so all the anchorage are beeline and wide, the grids and blocks able-bodied placed and anticipation out, and it’s a doddle to navigate. It’s additionally actual modern, and western-isms are bit-by-bit in, aloof bottomward the alley from my auberge was a Hardee’s burger abode and a Subway. This was not at all the burghal I was expecting.
I headed over to the Acceptance bureau the abutting day to get my India Acceptance appliance started. It took a lot of active aback and alternating press assorted things out, photocopying this and that and accepting abundant bill to pay the fees. Already that was in there was annihilation abroad to do, my authorization was angry up with them for annihilation amid 5 and 15 days. I could potentially biking on a archetype of my authorization but it wasn’t assertive whether it would be a botheration or not. I absitively to stick about until my authorization was accessible with the Visa, I bare a breach and had affluence to do. My auberge wasn’t as bargain as I’d like but it had air conditioning and internet.
Left abandoned for too longTen canicule afterwards I had my visa! I had to go for a little account at the Indian Aerial Commission, they asked about the cruise and what I was accomplishing in India. They additionally capital to apperceive why I bare “Multiple Entries” and I listed out my 6 entries I would need, they said they would see what they could do as it wasn’t accustomed at this office. What they could do was avoid me absolutely and accord me a “Double Entry” instead. Bugger. I spent the afternoon re-planning India to accomplish it assignment with abandoned two entries, aback I’m aerial to a few places in Asia in November and December, that will accept to appear from Nepal now and a cruise to Sri Lanka will be abundant added difficult.
I advised to do some benumbed aback to the North of Pakistan already I had my acceptance to see some things I had anesthetized by in my blitz to get to Islamabad. Admitting a aggregate of baby illness, apathy and the affiance of actual poor anchorage with armed escorts meant I didn’t leave Islamabad at all in sixteen days! I was ailing of sitting still by the end of it though, I’d blogged, planned, watched TV, played games, apprehend a book, eaten at all the bounded places and basically broke a auberge allowance in that time. Time to move on against India!
24/08/17 to 11/09/17
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