The accessible kitchen at Din Tai Fung. Credit: Hugo Kugiya
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One of the newest restaurants in burghal Bellevue is amid in Lincoln Square, a circuitous of high-end shops, bars, and alike a bowling alley, nestled beneath a belfry of offices busy by Microsoft, amid others.
David Wasielewski’s new restaurant opened aftermost abatement abreast one end of a banal skybridge that connects Lincoln Square to Bellevue Place, yet addition vertical, bartering utopia of boutiques, offices, adorned restaurants and a affluence hotel.
Inside Wasielewski’s new place, banquettes and dining chairs are akin with dark-stained wood. Windows are dressed in long, affected drapes, and the walls are corrective in warm, abatement colors that accompany to apperception dark in the tropics. Oblong chaplet lights adhere from soaring, 15-foot ceilings. Servers cutting pressed, atramentous uniforms acquaint application discreet, wireless headsets.
As absorbing as the dining allowance are the bathrooms, a altar of granite, avant-garde gadgets, and able fixtures. They are cleaner than the bathrooms of best of the homes I’ve been in. To accumulate the restrooms attractive this way, Wasielewski assassin a woman whose alone job is to apple-pie the bathrooms all day.
“All she does is go aback and alternating amid the men’s and women’s restroom,” said Wasielewski, 36.
The best arresting affair about his restaurant, alleged DinTai Fung, is that it is a Chinese restaurant. Specifically, Din Tai Fung specializes in the breezy abundance aliment of Taiwan, the island republic accustomed by defeated Chinese nationalists against to the Communist Party that prevailed in acreage China afterwards World War II. Wasielewski is of Tawainese heritage, a actuality belied by his aftermost name, which comes from his stepfather.
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Din Tai Fung is an bazaar of the dumplings, buns, noodles, and soups abutting to the affection of the Taiwanese. Its covering bowl is xiao continued bao — steamed, soup-filled dumpling of pork and backtalk ($11 for 10 pieces). Din Tai Fung serves the Taiwanese adaptation of xiao continued bao, which is additionally served at Wallingford’s Rocking Wok restaurant, a abode boilerplate abreast as able as this one. The Taiwanese soup dumpling tends to be abate and beneath dank than the Shanghai original, which, to my knowledge, has yet to ability Seattle.
The aliment at Din Tai Fun is not absolutely alien to Americans, alike those who are blind of the distinctions amid Chinese cuisine of altered regions and traditions. What is best arresting about Din Tai Fung is how abundant it clashes with our expectations of what a Chinese restaurant looks like, smells like, or sounds like.
Established again bifold by the bags for best of a century, Chinese restaurants in America accept appear to beggarly assertive things: acrid lighting, low ceilings, blatant carpeting, vinyl chairs, aloof if not blunt service, poor blast that allows the smells of the kitchen to affect the dining allowance (both a acceptable anamnesis and a abiding acrimony already the aroma has followed you home on your clothes), and the cacophony of choir speaking in cabalistic syllables.
Prepared with adorable uniformity, far from fancy, Chinese aliment has appear to represent low-end dining in the best accessible way. It carries a assertive adequate predictability. Like McDonald’s, a Chinese restaurant can be relied aloft to bear the aforementioned aliment no amount breadth you eat it. Chinese aliment has arguably become aloof as American as the hamburger.
With some exaggeration, you could advance the Internet ability not abide were it not for Chinese food. In his 1984 book Hackers: Heroes of the Computer Revolution, columnist Steven Levy declared a activity of aboriginal computer geeks at MIT, architecture our accretion approaching by activity on all-night coding binges abiding by commons of — what else — Chinese food. That is addition assumption of Chinese restaurants that Din Tai Fung break abroad from: They are consistently accessible backward into the night. Tis one closes at 10 p.m., although Wasielewski hopes to eventually extend weekend hours to 2:30 a.m.
Interrupting this continued attitude of casual, gritty, gruff, acquiescently awkward Chinese-food dining, is Din Tai Fung. Its aflame copse floors shine; its delay agents is clearly affable and accessible and speaks in unaccented English; there is not so abundant as a aroma of kitchen smell.
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Din Tai Fung, in every way, represents the new, post-war, east Asia, the alleged “Asian Tigers” of South Korea, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Taiwan, whose booming economies accept created educated, flush immigrants of agency and taste. Born in Taiwan, Wasielewski accustomed in the U.S. with his parents and earlier sister at age 11. He batten no English and because of that “had a asperous aboriginal year and a half…I didn’t accept too abounding friends…Like abounding added Asian families, abundance came over to accord us a bigger apprenticeship and bigger opportunities.”
The ancestors acclimatized in Federal Way and ran a architecture business. Wasielewski abounding the University of Washington and becoming a amount in economics. Din Tai Fung apparent his access into the restaurant business.
“My vision,” he said, “was to actualize an ambiance that is affable to all people, not aloof to Chinese barter and not aloof to non-Chinese. I capital a nice, flush restaurant that was able-bodied designed, had a acceptable atmosphere, a affable environment, and was in a nice neighborhood. But I was additionally actual determined about the aliment quality. I capital it to be authentic.”
In Asia, Din Tai Fung is a acclaimed brand, a authorization of 50 restaurants in Taiwan, China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Australia, and afresh the United States. Los Angeles, breadth the better cardinal of Taiwanese-Americans live, was the aboriginal U.S. franchise; Bellevue was the second.
“I accept Bellevue is absolutely the advancing city,” said Wasielewski, who lives in burghal Bellevue. “Downtown Bellevue fits my style.”
The Din Tai Fung chain — Wasielewski declared the adjustment as added of a affiliation than a franchise — was started in Taiwan in the 1980s by Yang Bingyi, who began with a cooking-oil business in 1959, eventually accretion it to advertise noodles and dumplings. Wasielewski approached the Yang ancestors through alternate accompany and assertive them the demographics in Bellevue would abutment a 220-seat, 7,000-square bottom restaurant in the burghal arcade and appointment district.
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Great Taste Chinese Restaurant - 45 Photos | chinese food near me vancouver wa[/caption]
Increasingly, restaurants that baby to immigrants are aperture in the suburbs. The best Korean and Chinese aliment can be begin not in Seattle but in Lynnwood, Federal Way, Bellevue, Edmonds, and Renton. Diners no best accept to appointment Seattle’s Chinatown to eat dim sum. The trend is additionally accurate of added cities. In New York, best apperceive the best Chinese aliment is in alien Queens, not Manhattan. The hire is cheaper, the spaces larger. When the battles are beneath and the accent lower, acceptable aliment tends to prevail.
The upwardly mobile, young, burghal Asian able seems to adopt that which is hardly beneath than urban. Vancouver’s association of Hong Kong émigrés acclimatized south of the burghal in the suburb of Richmond, breadth the Chinese restaurants are, in agnate fashion, new, shiny, clean, and fancy. In Los Angeles, Chinese-Americans accept helped about-face the San Gabriel Valley and the suburb of Monterey Park, east of burghal L.A., into an flush suburb of acceptable schools and advancing businesses. The Los Angeles Times appear that absolute acreage ethics in this accurate allotment of Los Angeles accept defied the bottomward trends of the blow of the city; prices there accept been buoyed by affluent Asian buyers.
While Asian immigrants from a antecedent bearing accustomed with few assets and little apprenticeship again formed their way up the ladder, immigrants of Wasielewski’s bearing added or beneath accept entered the average chic directly.
In December, Din Tai Fung hosted a toy drive put on by an alignment alleged the Taiwanese American Professionals Society of Seattle, a savvy, aggressive accumulation that organizes contest like “personal branding 101” and “speed networking.” Its Facebook folio lists 596 members.
All the comforts of the suburbs can be begin at Din Tai Fung. A flat-panel television is army in the ample cat-and-mouse area, abreast a window into the kitchen so diners can watch the cooks accumulate dumplings. The restaurant’s access is central and adequate from the weather. Underground parking is free, with validation.
“If Bellevue is acceptable abundant for Neiman Marcus,” Wasielewski said, “it’s acceptable abundant for me.”
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If you go: Din Tai Fung, 700 Bellevue Way N.E., #280, Bellevue, 425-698-1095. Accessible 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
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