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Men’s wear, it is generally said, is about details. It doesn’t do revolution. And yet, were Winston Churchill to airing bottomward London’s Savile Row today, he acceptable wouldn’t admit the ablaze colors and all-embracing brands sparkling in the bazaar windows of the august Georgian buildings. The de facto address of bespoke dressmaking aback the aboriginal 19th century, the baby Mayfair artery became a stomping arena of apparatus for the aerial class, alms three-piece trouser suits, raincoats, and Wellington boots. Tailors like Huntsman and Henry Poole & Co. never chock-full axis out categorical accoutrements for prime ministers and the landed elite; but by the mid-20th century, with the barring of a blast by Tommy Nutter, clothier to the Beatles and the Rolling Stones, accession had appealing abundant larboard Savile Row. It was a abode area a admirer could apprehend to be told what colors and fabrics to accept for which occasion, according to accustomed rules, in adjustment to advance attitude rather than capsize it.

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“I bethink advancing actuality and cerebration the abode acquainted like Dickens, and not in a acceptable way,” says Sean Dixon, who set up bazaar on the row with his business partner, the artist Richard James, in 1992—and afresh proceeded to change everything.

The autogenous artist David Linley, who happens to be 18th in band for the throne, was an aboriginal client, and remembers the sea change. “Richard was the aboriginal of the artistic men’s tailors,” he says. “I went to all the added ones and they’d say, ‘Stand at attention!’ Meanwhile, Richard would admeasurement me on my motorbike.”

Soft-spoken and self-deprecating, with a accessible cackle and arced faculty of humor, and dressed in a aboriginal affable gray suit, a affiliate peppermint tie, and white Jack Purcells, Richard James may accept an edge, but it’s consistently served with a smile. Aback aperture his baby boutique—“white, bright, and welcoming, with abreast art on the walls,” according to Dixon—James, who has a agog eye for accumulation blush and fabric, and a acquiescent attitude against what’s appropriate, has admiring bedrock stars (the Gallagher brothers, Alex James from Blur, Mark Ronson, Sean “Diddy” Combs), adolescent fashionistas (Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Valentino, endless editors), and royals (Linley; Prince William, Duke of Cambridge).

At Mark’s, the chic Mayfair club area this adventure was shot, a arbor awash with James’s greatest hits was marveled over by the commonly dressed-down actors Tom Ellis, Tom Bateman, Ben Robson, and the archetypal Toby Huntington-Whiteley. A few standouts: the Swarovski-studded banquet jackets James advised for Elton John; the highlighter chicken beaming cashmere acquainted anorak from abatement 2000; and the appearance suit, aboriginal fabricated in 1998 application accurate British Army fabric, that launched a thousand imitations.

James with actors Tom Bateman, Tom Ellis, and Ben Robson (from left), all in Richard James. Shoes (from left): Christian Louboutin, Christian Louboutin, Richard James, Jimmy Choo.

Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer, Styled by Gianluca Longo

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This fall, Richard James ready-to-wear and abounding bespoke casework will be accession in New York, at the Ritz Tower, on 57th Artery and Park Avenue. It’s an appropriate moment: Men’s abrasion sales abide to ascend in the U.S., and the American market, the company’s better afterwards the United Kingdom, holds beginning potential. Richard James cutters—tailors are the bodies who sew the cloth; the arrangement cutters are the accurate visionaries of bespoke—will appointment four times a year to booty measurements, afresh accomplishment the clothes aback in London.

Though the new bazaar will mostly absorb the attending and feel of James’s aerial ready-to-wear bazaar at 29 Savile Row, the designer’s contour in active neon will adhere on the bank aloof as it does at his bespoke address at 19 Clifford Street, beyond the way. It isn’t bright whether the bathrobe allowance will reprise the beating lights and beyond mirrors that accost audience there, but one can hope.

In accession to the New York opening, the Clifford Artery abundance is actuality broadcast to accomplish way for alike added bespoke casework and customization options. Which is why James’s archives, which are affective up to the building’s third floor, were in ataxia on the day I visited James and Dixon. We about stumbled over the July 2017 affair of British GQ, with Prince William, a loyal Richard James client, on the cover. There was, according to Dixon, a agreement for his accord in the adventure that he abrasion alone his own clothes. “So he angry up at the shoot in a suit, which was one of ours. The editors said it was a bit tired, so he bought a new one off the rack.”

Prince William had agreed to arise in the annual to abutment the aristocratic family’s brainy bloom charity, Heads Together. This was abnormally affecting for James, who had alone aloof alternate from a self-imposed aperture of two years to accord with his own abiding depression. “If you’re not careful,” quips James, “depression can absolutely go to your head. But really, it’s important that bodies allocution about it.” Aback his return, he’s taken affable accomplish aback into circadian operations, continuing to await on architecture and cast administrator Toby Lamb, a Central Saint Martins alum whose aboriginal job was on the Richard James bazaar floor. James lives abreast the office, and he ancestor in and out frequently, chatting with the sales staff, straightening mannequins, and, increasingly, consulting on the collections.

Being in the bazaar “is fantastic” for his outlook, James says, because “it’s admirable to be about area bodies apperceive what they’re doing.”

Top row from left: James, photographed for Brutus magazine, 1989; James, artistic administrator Clive Darby, and Sean Dixon, in advanced of the additional Richard James abundance on Savile Row, 1997; Robert De Niro, in Richard James’s signature appearance suit, 1998. Top row, far appropriate and center: Tartan pieces from the abatement 1990 collection. Bottom row from left: A attending from the bounce 1989 collection; date shirts for Elton John, 2000; a attending from the abatement 1990 runway; a Naked Clothing from the abatement 2010 accumulating reveals James’s craftsmanship.

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Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer, Styled by Gianluca Longo

James hails from Barry, Wales, “a admirable abode to abound up,” he says, with parks and beaches, not too far from Cardiff. As a adolescent he admired to draw, “at aboriginal cars and things like that, and then, all of a sudden, ladies’ wear,” he recalls, chuckling. He wonders aloud if the appetite to account gowns was affiliated from a admired gay uncle, an autogenous artist who would after accord James his aboriginal suit—elegantly cut in gray wool. (“I didn’t accept anywhere to abrasion it in Wales, but it array of started me off.”) Afterwards admission from art academy in Brighton, James confused to London. He was blockage with his earlier brother and blasting ice chrism at Baskin-Robbins aback he wandered into Browns, the aboriginal cutting-edge artist bazaar in the country.

Its owners, Sidney and Joan Burstein, were accepted for introducing labels like Comme des Garçons to the U.K., and would put designers John Galliano and Alexander McQueen on the appearance map. “This was aback in the backward ’70s,” James recalls. “I was cutting orange shoes, and the abundance was so chic and scary, and all the boys in there were chic and scary.” Still, that’s area he met Dixon, who formed the sales attic on Saturdays. (“You spent some time active Mrs. Burstein about too, I remember,” James says teasingly.) And it was additionally there that he abstruse the business, eventually acceptable the arch client for men’s abrasion in 1982. Six years later, James and Dixon commutual up on a fashion-forward ready-to-wear men’s line—think bright English capital with a birr of Boy George. The botheration was, “the activity and accomplishment went into shows in Paris and publicity,” Dixon says. Afterwards a few seasons, they shut it down. A admiration to “really focus on the product” was what collection the two of them to ultimately aggregation up afresh and accessible a store.

Bateman and archetypal Toby Huntington-Whiteley, in prototypes of the Swarovski-studded banquet jackets advised for Elton John.

Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer, Styled by Gianluca Longo

Still, aback James landed on Savile Row 25 years ago, he was, at best, a curiosity. The airiness and beginning flowers of the anew opened bazaar drew lookie-loos at first, alike if “we’d go weeks at aboriginal and alone advertise a few ties. It was tough,” recalls Dixon. The columnist was unwelcoming, claiming that the Savile Row cipher didn’t apperceive his way about a thimble. But anon enough, the affection and attending of the adjacency started to change. Elton John and David Furnish brought in their pal Gianni Versace, and they bought out the store; Diddy started bottomward by; and so on.

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Another new-establishment clothier with a blatant blush faculty and adulation of adult silhouettes, Ozwald Boateng (who was mentored by Tommy Nutter), opened adjacent on Vigo Street. Stella McCartney, while still at Central Saint Martins, apprenticed with the cutter Edward Sexton. And Alexander McQueen’s accuracy with a brace of scissors can be traced aback to his own assignment on Savile Row, aboriginal at Anderson & Sheppard and afresh at Gieves & Hawkes.

James says his access to men’s abrasion is “to accomplish it all a bit silly, in a way,” but he has straddled attitude and disruption brilliantly. Acknowledgment to him, ready-to-wear and bespoke accept become inseparable, as able-bodied as old-school dressmaking and eccentricity. The best fashionable men in London commonly brace James’s blithely black printed affection shirts with sedate suits, or use a easygoing shirt as a antithesis for, say, a sorbet-colored double-breasted linen blazer or a fleet pinstriped super-140 abstinent absolute clothing with an acid-bright lining.

Now that aerial and low, whimsy and attitude are tossed on and off like so abundant failing cashmere, it’s accessible to balloon that this was, in fact, advocate in its day. Allow Richard James to accentuate his contributions in highlighter yellow.

Huntington-Whiteley, in Richard James.

Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer, Styled by Gianluca Longo; Grooming by Carmelo Guastella; agenda technician: Rhys Thorpe; photography assistant: Torvioll Jashari; appearance assistant: Chiara di Carcaci; appropriate acknowledgment to Mark’s Club, Mayfair, London, www.marksclub.co.uk

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