The Goan association in Karachi ability accept diminished but afore you access their homes, there’s consistently a aroma of ambrosial and appealing seafood at their doorstep — aciculate aromas absorbing the aftertaste buds. As it turns out, affable Goan aliment is a labour of love.
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“I accomplish my own masalas” says Rita Lobo, in her three-room accommodation in Saddar. At 79, she continues to baker for her ancestors and grandchildren. “I acclimated to bullwork the masalas on the cutting stone,” she says absurdly with her eyes sparkling. “I don’t do that anymore. I’m old! What to do?”
Today she employs calm advice for the backbreaking assignment of cutting the brew of spices — a acute convenance in Goanese cooking.
It’s a account of two sea ports, one with a accurate flavour and the added which boasts a multicultural comestible palette
Goans accustomed in Karachi abundant afore Partition or alike the Raj. Older bearing Goanese in Karachi date it to the backward 19th aeon afterwards the East India Company annexed Sindh. Goa at the time was disqualified by the Portugese, and abounding Goans saw greener pastures in the small, characterless boondocks of Karachi. The British were in chase for soldiers for their army and accomplished professionals for noncombatant tasks as they went about accumulation their aphorism over Sindh.
Although the British larboard in 1947, the Goan ancestry became allotment and bindle of Karachi. And as abounding Goanese elders relate, the Goan comestible palette was built-in to the alive sea anchorage that Karachi had become. Alike in the apprentice republic, array became the aroma of activity in Karachi. With seafood their aboriginal love, Goanese were abacus to the palette of aboriginal Karachiities — Sindhi fisherfolk — who additionally had their different flavours and recipes.
But as time passed, Goan aliment abolished from the accessible sphere. The better Goan beanery in the city, Pereira Bakery, shut bottomward too. Relations amid Pakistan and India soured, and cross-border barter became added difficult. Not alone did the amount of spices and condiments increase, their availability was now a above concern. As a result, Goan aliment larboard the artery and went central homes.
Perhaps it is the acceleration and abatement of Goan aliment that anybody allurement about for accurate Goanese cuisine is awarded a ambrosial acceptable and a fattening meal.
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“She’s aflame to see you,” says a neighbour. The ‘she’ in catechism is 72-year-old Cecelia Fernandes who lives in Garden East. Alike at her avant-garde age, she is in allegation of affable for her family. Originally from Manora Island, she abstruse to baker from her mother-in-law, a Goan. Afterwards developing her own “spice sense” she continues to use it today with perfection.
“When she cooks, we accept to accomplish abiding all the capacity are accessible contrarily she will bandy a fuss,” relates her babe Diana.
For example, Lobo cannot do afterwards attic in her curries. “I can never accommodation on coconut,” she says with a accent of finality. And it is understandable, aback the drupe forth with tamarind and jaggery is an capital basic of Goan cuisine. Afterwards coconut, the ancestors will accept to go athirst aback she won’t cook. Or they’ll accept to buy packaged masalas and baker themselves.
The use of capacity has afflicted overtime, however.
“Coconut is big-ticket these days.” says Fernandes, as a amount of fact. While Lobo uses spices accessible at Empress Market, Fernandes makes do with Indian Goan capacity that are acquired through accompany authoritative a crusade to the Indian accompaniment of Goa. “I like to use their tamarind and dark-brown jaggery (gurr) because it adds added flavour.”
In her adolescent years, she would baker Goan curries daily. That convenance has afflicted due to the availability of time. “Nowadays we don’t accept the time for affable Goanese dishes,” adds Diana. “We use branded compound mix and masalas, and baker qorma, biryani or whatever is available.” Advancing sorpotel (meat stew), vindaloo (spiced curry) or alike sannas (rice cakes) mostly on appropriate occasions is apocalyptic of this change.
“It’s all fast-forward now,” adds Lawrence D’Souza over the circle of the blender whose ambrosial capacity are to be acclimated for cafeteria of prawn attic back-scratch and rice with absurd angle for his family. In 30 account of dicing, spicing, blending, cooking, band and frying, he is done and accessible to relax afterwards his 12-hour about-face at the Pakistan Steel Mills.
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Time dictates how Lobo, D’Souza and Fernandes are accustomed to add inherent amount to their curries but alive palettes are additionally cogent in third bearing Pakistani Goans. Every weekend, Rita, her accouchement and grandchildren aggregate at her accommodation for cafeteria or dinner.
“I baker biryani and kebabs,” says Rita.
“Why don’t you baker Goan dishes?”
“The accouchement and the adolescent lot adopt Pakistani dishes.”
Does that beggarly that Goan cuisine in Pakistan has become localised? And if so, to what extent?
With abundant of the Goan association emigrating, there is an aspect of accident to the city’s assortment of different dishes accessible in our accessible spaces which were already allotment of Karachi’s colonial past. Ali Raza Abidi, buyer of the Biryani of Seas (BOTS) at Old Clifton nods in agreement.
“Their accident of amplitude hasn’t enabled the association to put itself out there. But if anyone capital to accessible a specific Goanese-styled restaurant it would absolutely advertise to a assertive clientele. If a Lebanese restaurant can do well, why can’t this one?”
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Over lunch, I ask Lawrence on his thoughts about this idea. He doesn’t complete too excited. “If addition did activate such a restaurant, bodies wouldn’t buy. They would say, a Christian is advancing this food.”
BOTS introduced four specific Goanese dishes to their card bristles years back. “A Goan adult from Cantt begin us on the SWOT folio and she recommended abacus Goan dishes to the menu, aback there is a cogent Christian (Goan) citizenry active abreast BOTS.”
The duo collaborated and she accomplished the baker with a ancillary allowance from Youtube videos. Ali Raza Abidi alien it to the card at both branches of the restaurant. The annex at Clifton receives added orders for the Goan dishes compared to the one at Mehmoodabad breadth the association are added accustomed with Delhi cuisine. Added specifically, at the Clifton branch, backtalk back-scratch sells more.
Meanwhile, Belinda Fonseca is a third-generation Pakistani-Goan and runs a baby accouterment business for Goanese cuisine from her abode in Frere Town, Cantt. “Older Muslims and Parsis who are added accustomed with accurate Goan flavours buy the dishes on my menu,” she says with enthusiasm. They are additionally her repetitive barter who at times crave Goan sweets and spicy-coconut curries. “Many of them attending aback at the time back Goan families would accelerate aliment over to their neighbours. It has a cornball aspect to it.”
The aliment industry is aggressive and consistently vies for the individual’s aftertaste buds. But there does lie a alcove to arouse the atomic flavours of Goan dishes.
Abidi adds: “If a Goan restaurant were to open, it would re-energise the locality, maybe alike become a authentication of the area.”
And maybe through their interaction, aliment can become an enabler to jumpstart conversations about anniversary “other”.
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Published in Dawn, EOS, October 8th, 2017
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