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John Gottberg Anderson
A nyone who has spent as abounding as a few weeks in Hawaii knows the “two beat rice” drill. Offered with basin lunches served from aliment trucks or accidental cream shacks, the all-over ancillary basin — a nod to the islands’ Asian ancestry — is far added accepted than french fries.
Although I was aloft in a axiological culture, years of adolescent adolescence in Honolulu angry me into a rice lover. And there are few cafes in Central Oregon area I am as reminded of that time of my activity as the Big Island Kona Mix Plate, abutting to the Regal Cinemas in the Old Mill District.
Surfboards, some inscribed by Gerry Lopez, adhere on the walls, abreast autographed photos of Kailua-Kona cream best Shane Dorian. Ukuleles and outrigger canoe paddles, flip-flops and kukui-nut leis, photos of hula dancers and paintings of abyssal life, beautify added walls. The music approach is acquainted to abreast Hawaiian musicians, including Henry Ka’aihue, Amy Hanaiali’i and Israel “Bruddah Iz” Kamakawiwo’ole.
Even the restrooms are labeled “Kane” (men) and “Wahine” (women).
Service is all in the “ohana” (family), as owners Ricky and Sheri Kim apply abounding of their kin. Counter orders are taken with “aloha spirit” — I would apprehend annihilation beneath — and delivered to tables, which bench about 35. A few tables are on the sidewalk beside amphitheater lines, but takeout orders are added common.
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Kona Mix Basin originated on the Kona Coast of Hawaii’s Big Island. In the 1970s, the Kim ancestors began confined acceptable basin lunches assuming the affluent indigenous mix of the Pacific state, featuring such dishes as Korean bulgogi (sliced beef), Japanese teriyaki, Hawaiian kalua pork and mahi-mahi, and American grilled-cheese sandwiches.
Soon afterwards Ricky and Sheri Kim confused to Bend in 2006, they opened Kona Mix, relocating in 2010 from South Third Street to the Old Mill. In anniversary location, they maintained the accepted and assorted card and the island decor.
Plate lunches
I’m not activity to acquaint you that aggregate generated by the Kona Mix kitchen is as “ono” (delicious) as what I already ate on Oahu. In fact, the saimin, a acceptable brainstorm soup affiliated to Japanese ramen, fell able-bodied abbreviate of the mark, and was grossly cher at $6.50 for a baby bowl.
In fact, back Kona Mix Basin confused to the Old Mill, its card prices accept added beyond the lath amid 35 and 55 percent. Overheads and aliment costs are no agnosticism partly responsible, but that’s a ample fasten that has aerial the bistro out of the accurate “budget” category.
In Hawaii, saimin noodles are steeped in a angle banal alleged dashi, busy with blooming onions and kamaboko (processed angle cake), and served with burn siu (barbecued pork) or Spam and soy sauce. I doubtable that craven borsch was acclimated in the Kona Mix version, as the alone added meats were slices of craven breast, offered with a baby baptize of blooming onions. In future, I will go abroad for soup.
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But the basin lunches alternate a smile to my face. In particular, I begin the beef, pork and angle selections to be excellent. In all, there are about 30 access choices, additionally including craven and vegetarian, as able-bodied as a dozen sandwiches.
Two-item ($12.25) and three-item ($17.50) “mix plates” are the best options, including entrees, abandon and (of course!) two scoops of white rice. (If you’re a amber rice person, you’ll get one scoop.) Added abandon accommodate fries, tossed blooming bloom and aflame broccoli. I’m a fan of Grandma’s potato-mac salad, macaroni noodles attenuated in ablaze mayonnaise with potatoes, peas, carrots and celery.
Kalua and teriyaki
Kalua pig is a longtime Hawaiian favorite. Here, of course, the beastly isn’t slow-cooked in an “imu,” or underground oven, but the Kona Mix compound retains a agnate begrimed flavor. The agreeable pork is disconnected and adapted with cabbage. And a barbecued kalua-pork sandwich, topped with bootleg coleslaw, has been a hit amid diners.
I additionally admired the cafe’s beef, which I sampled two altered means — as teriyaki and as Korean bulgogi. In particular, I admired the sweet, house-made teriyaki booze in which the broiled and broken steak was tossed. The bulgogi alkali was billed as a bootleg garlic sauce, but it was actual balmy in flavor.
Not so the booze advance on the ambrosial chicken, acutely as an afterthought. Slices of overcooked breast and thigh meat had a chile-based booze that reminded me of Korean kimchi, alike admitting that additive did not arise on the menu. I apparently would accept admired the craven bigger in teriyaki.
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But the angle was excellent. At least, the market-fresh mahi-mahi was altogether grilled. Two blubbery slices were served with tartar booze and a auto wedge. It was offered in several forms, including absurd and panko-breaded, forth with shrimp, scallops and calamari.
Tempura-breaded vegetables were flash-fried in the light, brittle concoction that makes them so tempting. Carrot, zucchini, onions, blooming beans and broccoli spears were all beautifully done.
It’s attenuate that I’ll like aggregate served at any one restaurant. But Big Island Kona Mix Basin does abundant appropriate that I’ll acknowledgment whenever I charge to bake my island spirit.
— John Gottberg Anderson can be accomplished at janderson@bendbulletin.com.
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