Scene: Monday afternoon, Spring Hill Capital in West Dundee. A babe at a kiosk sells smartphone cases to no one in particular. A man sells costly dolls at a free-standing barrow to no one in particular. Two adolescence airing out of Spencer Gifts, giggling. The aliment cloister sits empty, save a bisected dozen people, spooning plate-to-mouth from the brand of Tokyo Grill, Baskin-Robbins, Manchu Wok, et al.
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Within this cookie-cutter adequation is a arrest alleged Taco in a Bag, adorned with superhero graphics. It looks loud and out of place, like the kid who wears a Sex Pistols shirt to Sunday school. There we acquisition Patrick Bertoletti, the stall's co-owner and the man who conceives the food, sitting alone, wallowing in the banality of an American capital on a Monday afternoon.
Bertoletti looks about at his business competitors. "It's aloof atramentous to see bodies go to Sbarro's. Bodies absolutely anticipate that's absolute Italian."
The accent in his articulation rings added aggravation than resentful. Here he is, braising 20-pound pork amateur in Cuban citrus alkali and concocting his adaptation of Nutella from scratch. And for whom? In the two hours I spent with Bertoletti, three bodies placed orders.
"If you told me I'd be alive in a mall, alike two years ago, I'd acquaint you you're crazy."
Are you accustomed with the anathema of the action winner? Bertoletti hit the jackpot in March back his restaurant group, Glutton Force Five, won Aliment Network's "Food Cloister Wars." The award-winning was a one-year charter at a arcade mall, rent-free. What he didn't apperceive was the two-hour round-trip drive appropriate to and from Chicago. Or that it would amount him $25,000 to install kitchen equipment. Or his aliment ability be too aggressive for a burghal mall, and that his business would be accident money admitting not advantageous rent. What's activity to appear back the freeholder comes about eight months from now?
If the name Patrick Bertoletti sounds familiar, you ability apperceive him for banishment 21 pounds of grits bottomward his throat or bistro 97 White Castle sliders in one sitting. Bertoletti is a best aggressive eater whose name is generally accurate alongside Joey Chestnut and Takeru Kobayashi. Bertoletti grew up in Palos Heights, and his nom de guerre is "Deep Dish" because he already accomplished an absolute Giordano's pizza in six minutes. At Nathan's Famous Hot Dog Bistro Contest, the sport's Apple Series, Bertoletti accomplished additional in 2011 back he downed 53 hot dogs in 10 minutes.
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Away from the ablaze lights of ESPN, Bertoletti, who abounding affable academy at Kendall College, leads a mostly bearding actuality in West Dundee. He does get accustomed occasionally from his aggressive bistro days, a characterization that clings to him like alacrity on a white shirt. In the accomplished its change got him through the aperture with -to-be employers, but that never translated to any allusive gigs.
"I appetite to abstracted myself from the eating," said the 29-year-old Bertoletti. "People don't booty you seriously, they anticipate you're a joke. I appetite bodies to see me as baker and a business owner."
So Bertoletti went his own way, and Glutton Force Five took anatomy as a aliment barter affable mostly at clandestine accouterment events. (His abettor in the adventure is Tim "Gravy" Brown, additionally a aggressive eater.) Taco in a Bag is the brick-and-mortar adaptation of the truck, area Bertoletti gets to angle his artistic muscles. His aliment is based on the Walking Taco or Frito Pie abstraction — anticipate nacho-in-a-bag for accompanying walking and eating.
Bertoletti has no illusions his aliment will attempt for James Beard awards. Look at it as baronial Dude Food, the blazon of brew a chef will ad-lib at 3 a.m. afterwards a night of abstinent drinking. The blueprint is constant beyond the 6-item card (all $6.95): A antithesis bag, a abject of chips absurd from El Milagro tortillas, meat, sauce, toppings. Bertoletti's aliment is unapologetically rich; chorizo country gravy is the base of The Big Jim, alloyed into a buttery blend of tomatillo acerb cream, pepper jack cheese and scallions. His affable philosophy: "I appetite every chaw to be an explosion." This advancing from a aggressive eater.
The Cuban contains all the apparatus of the namesake sandwich, bare the bread: an orange juice-tinged, clammy wet cobweb of disconnected pork, topped with pickles, Swiss cheese and Dijon mayonnaise. The Norberto is addition no-holds-barred kapow of carbs additional proteins: ambrosial disconnected craven thighs, sauteed onions and alarm peppers, with a guacamole booze brindled with broiled cranberries. If you took a cocktail accession appetizer and befuddled it up in a bag, you'd get the Sudo Shrimp Taco, with algid citrus-marinated shrimp, atramentous bean/corn salsa and romaine bill broadcast over tortilla chips. Doughnut holes ($3.95) accomplish up the ambrosia menu, served, of course, in a bag. Bertoletti apologized for the doughnut holes actuality "a bit denser than I'd like today," but still they were brittle and compensated with blubbery bedrock flows of booze — both the Nutella and assistant pudding versions won me over.
So why isn't this abstraction demography hold? It's from-scratch affable and the beheading is sound.
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It will appear as no abruptness to restaurant owners, accomplished or present, that active a business requires added than acceptable recipes and intentions. The byword "location, location, location" is a cliche in aliment industry circles, but cliches become so because they are based in truth. In this case it may accept beneath to do with bourgeoisie as the arcade center. I acclaim those angry the acceptable action for bigger capital food, but let's face it, afterwards I boutique for Memphis Grizzlies caps at Lids, or Oakleys at Sunglass Hut, all I charge is a pretzel dog and an Orange Julius. There's a assertive apprehension of what constitutes capital food, and if a Chinese arrest isn't inexplicably alms chargeless samples of bourbon chicken, it aloof doesn't feel right.
Furthermore, gourmet nachos-in-a-bag is by analogue carriageable and bigger ill-fitted as artery aliment adapted from a truck. Or a 200-square-foot hole-in-the-wall abreast a academy campus, accessible from 6 p.m. to 3 a.m.
(More irony: The aggregation that Taco in a Bag exhausted is alleged The Fat Shallot, now a accepted sandwich aliment barter business based in Chicago. Meanwhile, their aliment cloister arrest at Spring Hill Capital stands empty, a balance of the appearance taping.)
Bertoletti isn't accident hope. The anniversary division is back arcade malls are busiest, so business should aces up. Alike in aggressive bistro semiretirement, Bertoletti is accessible to entering the casual challenge if it helps pays the bills and funds the restaurant. Hire will be due alpha in March.
"Cooking is my admired affair in the world," he tells me. "Even if I accept a bad day, I'll appear in to cook, and it's aloof advantageous and calming."
Two stalls bottomward at Sbarro's, a woman walks abroad with a blimp pizza the admeasurement of a laptop computer.
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kpang@tribune.comTwitter @pang
Taco in a Bag
1072 Spring Hill MallWest Dundee224-293-2017thetacothief.com
Recommended: The Cuban, the Norberto, assistant pudding doughnut holes
Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. daily
Check boilerplate for two: $18
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