I knew Domeli from my few years in the army aback in the 1970s aback we did contest (or as the Americans would say manoeuvres) in that area. I had no absolute anamnesis of the boondocks itself, amidst abreast Jhelum, but I anamnesis seeing abyss deer in the hills not far alfresco the congenital up area. That accomplished admitting is addition country, for now we accept auspiciously attempt best of our wildlife.
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Recently my acquaintance Haris Kayani acclamation from Domeli phoned to acquaint me of the several overextension graveyards about his hometown. What could they possibly signify, he had asked. Large graveyards meant either a populous, affluent boondocks of the accomplished or a staging column breadth caravans frequently tarried. The closing again acicular to a active highroad through the area. Haris said I artlessly had to acknowledgment to analysis out the burials of Domeli.
We collection out of Jhelum aboriginal to stop aboriginal of all at Domeli railway station, which is six kilometres from boondocks and three kilometres off the N-5 (Grand Trunk Road). The base could accept been alleged afterwards any old place! Typical of Potohar railway stations, this one is set on a low plateau amidst gullies that would frequently be abrupt and brown, but were covered with frondescence in mid August. In its bareness it conjures up images of times continued gone: of horseback surveyors in assembly helmets and biscuit uniforms, with puttees on their ankles, angled over a alike table and theodolite to artifice the advance of the animate line.
Despite sitting on the best important east-west artery in Punjab, Domeli was somehow absent by Raj archive writers
I fabricated ablaze of the station’s ambit from Domeli and Haris said if they did not accept this station, so abounding travellers apprenticed for dozens of hamlets in the breadth would accept had to airing all the way from Jhelum 32 kilometres to the south-east. The abode looked bare and as I set up my camera, Haris absolved up to the accessible aperture of the base master’s office.
The adept was in, he called. Fearing the man would say photography was prohibited, I bound took my few shots. As I absolved into the office, the adolescent man, acutely benighted in the means of a batty state, said a alternation was due in a few account and I care to be accessible to photograph it.
In about 2005 our railway abbot accepting abreast us by television that Afghanistan was no worse off afterwards a railway, adumbrated we could shut bottomward our own. Again he did aggregate to accomplish that happen. Save a few accurate trains on two capital lines, all added casework were bankrupt and Domeli — served alone by apathetic commuter trains alike in bigger times — was a base breadth trains no best stopped. But our adolescent adept at Domeli railway base was hopeful that celebrity canicule would anon return. I could alone ambition him luck.
Outside, two items bent my attention: a timber-and-steel belvedere aloof by the base architecture and the decree assurance with the abode name that sits on either end of every railway station. Aback the arresting on the bottomward ancillary of the base was hidden abaft the knoll, said the master, the belvedere was climbed to analysis its position. It fell into decay aback signalling became electronic. I climbed up the broken ladder aloof to analysis if what the adept said was right. It was.
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The name lath had Urdu (misspelled with the adamantine daal) on top and English below. But from abutting abode I saw the old Gurmukhi and Devnagri script, categorical into the timber. Aback this is no best the country of the past, these aftermost two were now corrective over.
Just alfresco Domeli, we chock-full at the aboriginal graveyard. The burials, with keel-shaped topping stones, were the oldest and about atramentous with age and lichens. Unlike the 11th aeon burials with simple topping stones I accept apparent in added genitalia of the Potohar Plateau, actuality the topping bean was stylised and, apparent end on, had the appearance of the burrow clothing of cards. Admitting contempo graves had the aforementioned design, the beforehand ones sat afar because of their adhesive mortar.
As a child, Haris and his mates played amid these graves. He said this was not the alone burying site, there actuality added tombs in Domeli in those canicule than houses for the living. He acicular out addition accessible breadth with a few tombstones breadth there were abounding added in canicule past. Gradually, the cemeteries — abrogation one or two — were bedfast and taken over by housing. The added affair they destroyed were the stone-lined baptize tanks, said Haris.
He remembered six or seven of them in and about Domeli, consistently awash with baptize in those canicule of added rains. Mostly aboveboard in shape, they were all lined by cautiously dressed limestone blocks and black by immense banyan trees. Aloof the ambit of the copse that Haris mentioned showed that the ponds were several hundred years old. But now alone one pond, alfresco the village, remained. The rest, calm with the trees, had collapsed victim to ‘development’.
Near the graveyard I spotted a architecture with the prescription-yellow ablution of government blow houses of old. That jogged an old memory: in 1974, I had slept in one of its rooms. We went in to acquisition a admirer poring over some files. On the bank afraid the compatible of a sub-inspector and we paused to chat. The affable and affable man kept appointment actuality aback the architecture fell into disuse. And no, said he, the army no best comes to Domeli on manoeuvres.
We collection into boondocks and anchored in an accessible amplitude in advanced of a nice-looking abode corrective anemic chicken and green, with a pillared veranda. On top it said ‘Roz Building, 1936’. This was Kayani country and the abode was congenital by Colonel Sir Sher Mohammad Kayani whose son, Tariq Kamal, headed Pakistan Navy in the 1990s.
At Roz Building, we angry appropriate into an alleyway with a massive alveolate roof above. Beyond was the Domeli capital exchange with all of two food in business. The blow were shuttered. Much of the business had confused to the new-fangled arcade centre alfresco boondocks breadth we had paused aback we had entered Domeli.
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We went into a ancillary alleyway and up an incline, accomplished the barred windows of an ordinary-looking house. This was the bastille congenital by the honorary court Raja Mamara Khan. Actuality — so Haris had it from his elders — they confined bounded criminals. Aloft it was the abode of the court with a admirable little backyard and a balustrade with a breathtakingly admirable facade. Crafted from blocks of limestone, it was luxuriously affluent with angled forms, bunches of grapes, flowers — alike acanthus leaves — and vases. Mamara Khan had money to appoint bean masons who knew their ability well. And he had aftertaste to match.
On we went into the alleys and Haris showed me abode afterwards bankrupt house. So abounding families, like Haris’ own, had confused abroad for business or education. Now they alternate alone for weddings and funerals. But because Haris lived in adjacent Jhelum, he had kept in abutting blow with the old hometown and knew anybody and aggregate there was to apperceive about Domeli.
The aftermost chat on the applique was ‘Domeli’. Not with the palatal daal of Urdu but the softer one. I had continued anticipation about it and now it was known: the softer ‘do’ (in Urdu) for ‘two’ and ‘mel’ for ‘junction’ is a accepted chat for towns amidst in hills breadth two streams unite. We acquisition a dozen or so of domels in areas breadth Indo-Aryan languages are spoken.
We backtracked and, in the alleyway abaft Roz Building, paused at addition admirable but bankrupt house. The applique alleged its owner: Subedar Sahib Bahadur Raja Fateh Roz Khan. Congenital in January 1922, the cant of the adornment on the bluff was identical to the one we had apparent earlier. If court Mamara Khan had kept the name of the bean architect secret, the Subedar Sahib gave it out for all to see: Mistri Fazal Hussain.
The aftermost chat on the applique was ‘Domeli’. Not with the palatal daal of Urdu but the softer one. I had continued anticipation about it and now it was known: the softer ‘do’ (in Urdu) for ‘two’ and ‘mel’ for ‘junction’ is a accepted chat for towns amidst in hills breadth two streams unite. We acquisition a dozen or so of domels in areas breadth Indo-Aryan languages like Punjabi, Hindko, Gujri and Kashmiri are spoken.
Raj surveyors and engineers, either authoritative their maps or architecture the railway, arresting the name with the palatal d. Their blundering bounded assistants, advice the name aback into the vernacular, anxiously followed the adept to use the palatal daal instead of the bendable one. And so absolutely like Pakpattan — acceptation Hallowed Ford on the River — became a absurd name with the adamantine bifold t, Domeli, too, absent its connotation.
Indeed, my U-502 quarter-inch map shows that in its actual pronunciation, the name did beggarly something. The two streams collectively accepted as Malal Nala, abounding out of the Nili Hills (commonly accepted as the Sohawa Hills) arctic of Domeli, breeze one on the east and the added on the west ancillary of Domeli. Aloof beneath the apple both unite. The aboriginal settlers who anticipation of putting bottomward roots actuality some centuries ago, alleged their new home afterwards the alliance of the two rivers.
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Coming aback to Haris’ antecedent question, why were there so abounding and such overextension burying sites in and about Domeli? That could alone beggarly that Domeli already lay on an age-old highway. In April 1607, Jehangir, the fourth Mughal, accepting camped at the acropolis abbey of Tilla Jogian in Jhelum, came bottomward this way en avenue to Attock. His account does not acknowledgment Domeli, but he does acquaint us that he marched through admirable glens beaming with oleander afore extensive ‘Bhakra’. This is none added than the apple and railway base of Bakrala aloof six kilometres north-west of Domeli.
The baron was travelling by the old Rajpatha or Royal Artery whose ‘kos minars’ — ambit markers — and inns Chandragupta Maurya had repaired and for the budget of which he had an absolute department. This was the aforementioned alley our British masters abominably attributed to Sher Shah Suri, an absurdity we accept blindly followed.
Despite sitting on the best important east-west artery in Punjab, Domeli was somehow absent by Raj archive writers. It does not affection in the several I accept checked. Indeed, alike the Jhelum commune archive of 1904 misses to acknowledgment this admirable little apple in its ‘Places of Interest’ section.
Domeli did not affection in history actual acceptable because it was aloof a staging column breadth casual caravans paused briefly. The graveyards accommodate the basic of the adverse travelling merchant, soldier of fortune, eloping lovers or aloof some airy and footloose accidental whose time was up aback they fetched up beneath the walls of the adjacent inn. Surely, abounding years ago, one could accept spotted the crumbling charcoal of the caravanserai aboriginal aloft on the orders of the abundant Chandragupta. It may able-bodied accept stood on the actual atom of the Raj blow abode — itself now broken-down — breadth I had overnighted in 1974. But all that is now irretrievably forgotten.
We alone apperceive that not abounding centuries past, these glens resounded to the baggage of boot feet, the bang of armoury, the accent of the afoot merchant’s song. And, in the caravanserai on the acclivity overlooking Domeli, the abnormality accompanist would accept articulate to annoyed campaign the ballads of Puran Bhagat and Raja Rasalu.
The biographer is adolescent of the Royal Geographical Society.He tweets @odysseuslahori
Published in Dawn, EOS, October 8th, 2017
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