Armenian Cuisine, in a adjacent arcade center, is addition abode breadth the card reflects Russian influence. This family-owned operation appearance the affable of Harry Petroysan, a above baker for the Soviet army. His appetizing beef Stroganoff, the Russian alloy of beef tenderloin, mushrooms and onions sauteed in adulate and alloyed with acerb cream, is not absolutely Armenian, but it is delicious. The Armenian standbys are all able-bodied executed, including shish kebab, lamb brand and sarma (grape leaves blimp with arena lamb and rice and served with a yogurt dipping sauce).
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One afternoon, my dad and I visited the old Armenian division downtown, abreast Fresno's Civic Center. The airy and architectural centermost of Fresno's Armenian association is Holy Trinity Armenian Apostolic Church. Built in 1914, the abbey is still the hub of Little Armenia, an ascendancy of Armenian bakeries, restaurants, barbers and added baby businesses. An accomplished way to acquaintance it is through Holy Trinity's anniversary Armenian Bazaar Aliment Festival, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Oct. 27. For it, abbey associates actualize an amazing arrangement of Armenian delicacies, including kebabs, pilaf and different pastries.
Though no best the activating indigenous adjacency it already was, the breadth still boasts two acclaimed Armenian aliment bakeries: Valley Lavosh Baking Co. (formerly Valley Bakery) and Hye Quality Bakery, both a abbreviate airing from the church.
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Opened in 1922 by Ghazair Saghatelian, Valley Lavosh Baking Co. is now run by his babe Janet and granddaughter Agnes. Although the bakery's better agent is Valley Hearts, baby heart-shaped crackers, my ancestors has consistently patronized the old bakery for its pita bread, a two-inch-thick annular loaf topped with an egg ablution and sesame seeds.
A hundred yards abroad is Hye Quality Bakery (source of the aliment pictured on L1), which opened in 1957. Already a tiny abundance abutting the blaze station, the bakery has gone aerial tech and now produces bags of circuit a anniversary of the Armenian cracker aliment alleged lavosh. Aback the bakery's affable owner, Sammy Ganimian, begin out we were attractive for acceptable Armenian restaurants he bound recommended Uncle Harry's in Reedley. "He has the best shish kebab around."
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Dad and I went aback to our auberge and afterwards a blow and a aged attack to bake a few calories in the exercise room, we set out for Uncle Harry's.
On the half-hour cruise south to Reedley, we reminisced about abundant shish kebabs we accept known. We agreed, of course, that no restaurant could adapt shish kebab like we had at home. My mom and grandmother were accomplished cooks, and my Aunt Mary still is. But aback it came to kebab cooking, no one could exhausted my grandfathers: Moses in Fresno and Nahabed in Los Angeles. The acknowledgment of charcoal to either would alert them to instantly bounce to their broken barbecues, which were accursed by broiled walnut and apricot branches that produced an acutely hot fire, and rendered a dank and ambrosial lamb kebab.
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Twenty afar south of Fresno, Reedley is a bizarre boondocks of 18,000, with a capital artery that looks Midwestern. Uncle Harry's is set in a 103-year-old architecture and the business is endemic by Harry Horasanian, who grew up aloof a few afar away. A carpenter by trade, Horasanian became complex with accouterment and was eventually coaxed by accompany to accessible Uncle Harry's in 1990. Shish kebab is absolutely the way to go here, and like Harry at Hye Quality Bakery said, it may be the best in the Fresno area. The high-quality meat is briefly marinated in white wine, garlic crumb and chopped olives again broiled to dank tenderness. No, it doesn't analyze to my grandparents', but I wasn't assured a miracle. Inside is a account of the old architecture during its celebrity days. It's a three-story brick and wrought-iron adorableness that would not accept been out of abode on Bourbon Street.
When we got aback to our hotel, my accessory Dave, who is a musician, had larboard me an burning message: "For a artist that absolutely cooks, stop in Visalia, 40 afar south of Fresno, and try the shish kebab." So the abutting day, afterwards blockage out, we took his admonition and had a shish kebab cafeteria at Hagopian's International Delicatessen, a baby Armenian aliment abundance that additionally serves cafeteria Monday through Saturday until 2 p.m. We dined on breakable leg of lamb chunks that we rated additional alone to Uncle Harry's.
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Richard Hagopian, who runs the abode with his wife, Geraldine, can baker two ways: over charcoal and on the oud--the age-old Mideastern apparatus that is the antecedent of the lute. In 1989 he was accustomed by the National Endowment of the Folk Arts for his oud playing, and the abundance is busy with his albums, as able-bodied as Armenian art.
As we headed aback to Los Angeles, it was abating to apperceive that Armenian dining in Fresno is animate and well. Fresno isn't a alluring day-tripper destination. But if you're dispatch up to Northern California, branch to Yosemite or aloof charge some of the best indigenous aliment in the state, Fresno is an outstanding stop forth the way.
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