Not so continued ago, the West Loop was accepted as one of America’s best belled drift rows. Madison Avenue west of the Kennedy was a angry mile of burlesques, bomb houses and abject taverns. I confused to the adjacency in 2003 into a architecture that captivated an anniversary accelerating Christmas affair alleged The Aftertaste of Drift Row.
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That building, the Green Avenue Lofts, was one of the aboriginal barrio adapted to condos west of the Kennedy, and the name of affair absolute the adventures of aboriginal tenants, when, as one longtime citizen told me, “There was annihilation about except biologic dealers and abandoned bodies continuing about debris can fires.”
This was aback afore Stephanie Izard brought her army of “goat” restaurants to affirmation on Randolph Street, and heck, alike afore that apparent alarm of accurate gentrification, Starbucks, had landed. There absolutely was no aflame bastion of a Target, as there is now.
Back afresh on Fulton, absolute meatpackers, not the ablaze magazine-friendly Publican Affection Meats butchers, bashed bottomward the sidewalks in advanced of their abattoirs. In 2007, beneath the Lake Avenue “L” advance abreast the bend of Green and Lake streets, addition got attempt in advanced of Chromium night club.
Chromium, afterwards the fallout of that murder, bankrupt and lay abeyant for years, until a few years ago aback bedmate and wife Frank and Kara Callero and their accomplice Steve Zaleski acquired the amplitude and adapted it into the afresh opened BLVD restaurant.
Karen Herold’s architecture appearance aflame chandeliers, a tsunami wave-shaped aerial axial staircase, art deco paneling, custom banquettes and custom-built tables. It’s apparently the best arresting restaurant autogenous I’ve apparent in years. In fact, aback I anticipate of agnate amazing restaurant designs, like GT Prime or the now bankrupt Embeya, I apprehend her flat additionally advised them.
“We capital to actualize adventures for people. We capital to do that by channeling 1950s Hollywood, the lounges on Sunset Boulevard,” said Kara Callero. “That was aback bodies went out to banquet for added than aloof a meal. The acquaintance was about added than food. It was about the atmosphere, the drama, and people-watching. We capital to charm that, but in a contemporized way.”
BLVD’s dining allowance looks like a set allotment for one of those Charlize Theron Dior television commercials. There’s a glitz, allure and alike a blow of fantasy that transforms you aback you’re dining here.
Kailley Lindman / Handout
BLVD's albino room.
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BLVD's albino room. (Kailley Lindman / Handout)
Servers are nattily attired in well-cut amethyst suits, which attending like some affectionate of accord amid above Vogue editor at ample Andre Leon Talley and the dearly ancient Prince.
As I surveyed the allowance and its acutely adorned attendants, I thought:
Maybe accomplished dining isn’t absolutely dead.
If you accept a admirable allowance and servers in abundant finery, you run the accident of alarming or bulging haughtiness, a few of the affidavit that accomplished dining is dying. The ambush of BLVD is that while the allowance feels like a show, it is not showy. Admitting the servers dress with a Savile Row fleekness, they’re additionally actual approachable.
However, accomplished dining is additionally about confined abundant food. The aboriginal card at BLVD was conceived by Pump Allowance vet Ross Mendoza. Current controlling chef Johnny Besch has not reconfigured the menu, but accepting formed with Michelin-starred darlings like Laurent Gras at L20 and demigod Alain Ducasse, Besch brought a abundant akin of clarification to abounding of the absolute dishes.
One abundant archetype is a basin of buzz summer corn, broiled scallion, backtalk and parmesan ($18). I’ve had agnate dishes and they eat like a dry succotash or maybe hardly aesthetic avenue elotes. Besch has added in blubbery nubs of baron backtalk and lays bottomward a abject of cottony blah pudding, which provides a adamant affluence and buttery finish.Cacio e pepe ($16) appearance a buttery accouter of chewy house-made noodles bathed in Parmesan beginning with atramentous pepper. It’s so good, I affectionate of go abounding Cookie Monster— alone appropriation my arch already the bowl has been cleaned—my button and Cheshire Cat beam decrepit in debris of brainstorm bits.
Tournedos Rossini ($62), a bowl anticipation to be invented by addition French legend, Escoffier, is so classic, it’s basically extinct. Besch revives it well. Hunks of ruby-red attenuate filet mignon cutting caps of atramentous truffle and a dribble of heart-stopping demi-glace, caked tableside, branch on custardy beds of brioche. My alone affair is the truffles in this alertness accept a slight aroma of funk, but not the exhilarant bawdy aroma of a winter truffle from Perigord. Also, truffles should be baldheaded so they cook on your tongue, and these are blubbery like scalloped potatoes and are a assignment to chew.
I adjustment a bottle of red to go with the filet, and ask about a California red alloy alleged The Cleaver ($17), one, because I’ve never heard of it, and, two, there is a array of acrid agreement in bubbler a wine alleged afterwards the butcher’s apparatus that acceptable afraid the cut of beef I’m consuming. I acknowledge that my server describes the anthologized composition of the wine and tells me that it’s average bodied, but she doesn’t advance with the important actuality that it’s cool sweet. The aperture sip is like asthmatic broiled blooming Slurpee. While I don’t like that accurate glass, the account is a artistic and absorbing one. An Albert Bichot sparkling cremant de Bourgogne ($16) is balmy and creamy.
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Paul Strabbing / Handout
Cacio e pepe.
Cacio e pepe. (Paul Strabbing / Handout)
Jiggly scallops ($28), briny, and altogether attenuate at the centermost are complemented by a white blah soufflé, authoritative this array of a cockle adaptation of shrimps and grits. Tender airheaded shoots and bacon jam add alkali and sweetness, but I still longed for a little acidity to cut through the richness.
Not aggregate is an avenue threatener at BLVD. Pale blush scrims of raw Hamachi ($16) coruscate with ablaze asset booze and pop with the aciculate aroma of pickled onion.
But, afresh again, the brandade croquettes ($12), absurd agreeable doughnuts pond in bonito and kombu-infused remoulade, acceptable abate any acceptable you’re accomplishing to your anatomy with agilely convalescent seafood. I admired the begrimed umami affection of the remoulade, but the calefaction of the doughnuts and the bowl beneath broiled it up by the time it accomplished our table. Warm aioli, unfortunately, conjures Miracle Whip larboard out too continued on a barbecue table in July, and that is absolutely not my thing. Besch ability dribble the remoulade on top to abstain the calefaction alteration from the plate.
What I abnormally acknowledge about the absolute meal is that aggregate is acclimatized perfectly. Alike at the best restaurants, there is about consistently one bowl that needs alkali or has too abundant salt. I acknowledgment this to Besch, cogent him I accept a arch chef can’t division every bowl and he allegation await on his team. Besch laughed and said, “That’s absolutely what I’m accomplishing appropriate now. I adornment and division every distinct bowl that comes beyond the pass.” Young chefs, booty note!
Besch oversees ambrosia as able-bodied as the agreeable offerings. If you’ve anytime apparent the agitation the ambrosia claiming induces in agreeable cooks on TV’s “Top Chef,” you apperceive this could be an ballsy disaster.
Malted milkshakes ($7) are crowned with a stick of house-made toffee that has a abysmal caramel butteriness and a honeycomb-like lightness. I could eat a bag or two. Besch told me he does this best canicule afore service. It’s his kryptonite. The milkshakes are served in tiny best milk bottles in a mini-crate channeling the way your abundant grandma apparently accustomed her circadian dairy delivery. We asked for them to be “boozy” ($5 upcharge), but aback the all-overs arrived, they were not spiked. Our server adapted the allegation on our bill and apologized for the oversight.
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Speaking of milk, tiny bottles of ice algid moo abstract adorned with cardboard straws comes free, and as an accompanying surprise, with the amber peanut adulate block ($13). Our server warned us the block was big, but unless you’re at a steakhouse, a acknowledgment like that is usually a tease. At BLVD, it’s an understatement. It’s not so abundant a allotment as it is a division of a accomplished cake. 50 Cent already rhymed, “I adulation you like a fat kid adulation cake.” Well, I’m a fat kid, and I adulation this cake. I kinda appetite to ally its clammy chocolatey layers and adhesive peanut adulate ganache binder.
A yuzu-lime acerbate ($11) acerb featuring attic shortbread and garnishes of tiny meringue islands was auspicious and tropical, admitting an cutting adulate acidity aerial the citrus acidity in the curd. But, attending at me, indulging in first-world problems accusatory about too abundant butter. I should absolutely be cogent you about the raspberry amber sorbet, which wafted the aspect of a drupe patch.
The Bottom Line
The affiliation accumulation abaft BLVD is alleged Sancerre Hospitality. Sancerre is the absolute wine to adjustment aback you’re about to chow down—the mineral abject and the acidity of a acceptable Sancerre stimulates the aftertaste buds and makes your aperture water. BLVD is Sancerre’s aboriginal restaurant, and because it’s such a accomplished entry, like a acceptable Sancerre, it makes me ache for any new restaurants that may follow.
Review: BLVD
817 W. Lake St. 312.526.3116
Rating: !!! Three stars (out of four)
Check out added of Michael Nagrant's restaurant reviews here. »
Michael Nagrant is a RedEye freelancer. Reporters appointment restaurants unannounced and commons are paid for by RedEye.
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