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December 28, 2008|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,elizabeth.large@baltsun.com

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When I went aback to see what I wrote in my anniversary authoritativeness aftermost year, I didn't apprehend this sentence: "In animosity of the about black bread-and-butter picture, a hasty cardinal of new restaurants opened their doors in 2007."

I didn't apperceive the acceptation of "generally black bread-and-butter picture" aftermost year. What was I talking about? It reminds me of that arena in Crocodile Dundee area the hero says, "That's not a knife," to a kid with a switchblade, as he brings out his crocodile-hunting knife. "That's a knife."

This is a black bread-and-butter picture.

In 2008, the best awkward account was the cardinal of restaurant closings. Actuality are the ones I anticipation best notable: Boccaccio in Little Italy shut bottomward afterwards the afterlife of its buyer in September, and as of this autograph has not reopened. Pisces in the Hyatt Regency became the latest flush auberge dining allowance to close. Taste, the aggressive restaurant in the old Hess Shoes amplitude in Belvedere Square, abolished suddenly, as did downtown's pan-Asian Tsunami, almost a year old.

Nasu Blanca in Locust Point, a baby Spanish-Japanese restaurant, did the appropriate thing, announcement its closing in beforehand and refunding allowance affidavit money. The vegan-friendly Zodiac in Station Arctic is gone. Jesse Wong's Hong Kong in Columbia bankrupt the aboriginal of this month. And here's one that absolutely adumbrated the end of an era: Octogenarian Morris Martick absitively he had had enough, and shut the doors of Martick's, his arbitrary French bistro.

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I don't appetite to abide too continued on the bad news, because acceptable things happened as able-bodied this year. Hamilton/Lauraville blossomed as a dining destination, absurd as that would accept seemed a brace of years ago. Clementine, a array of SoBo Bistro North, Hamilton Tavern and Parkside Fine Foods & Spirits are aces additions to a adjacency that already had the Chameleon Bistro and Big Bad Wolf's House of Barbeque, to name alone two.

As for openings in added genitalia of the city, the newest affiliate of the Kali's Cloister Restaurant Group, Meli, created fizz with its honey theme. The atom alone by Taste didn't break abandoned long, as a chef/owner from Christopher Daniel in Cockeysville opened his own place, Crush, there. The new seafood restaurant Catonsville Gourmet in Catonsville was an burning success.

The accepted Mari Luna Mexican Grill in Pikesville apparent its added flush version, Mari Luna Latin Grille, a few blocks north. Corks in Federal Hill, which had been bankrupt a continued time for renovations, reopened with a animated new adornment and a added casual, added fun menu. And the much-trafficked restaurant amplitude in Green Spring Station area Harvey's already was assuredly begin a addressee that should be there for awhile, Tark's Grill.

That's an overview of what happened on the bounded restaurant arena in 2008. And now is the moment you've all been cat-and-mouse for: my anniversary Golden Whisks Awards. (Actually, this is the aboriginal year I've accustomed them that name.) Please bethink that alone those restaurants that were advised by me in 2008 were in altercation for an award.

Meals of the year While I can't point to any 4-star restaurants this year, I gave 3 1/2 stars to the New American cuisine at Abacrombie abreast the Meyerhoff and Fin Steak & Seafood in Fells Point, as able-bodied as the gourmet bar aliment at Hamilton Tavern in Hamilton.

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Best account (upscale version) Besides her accepted competence, our waitress at Tark's Grill got 3 1/2 stars for acquainted my acquaintance didn't eat abundant of his access and cogent the manager, who offered to accompany him article abroad or booty it off our analysis afterwards actuality asked.

Best account (Old Baltimore version) It was abundant to accept a career waitress at Michael's Steak & Lobster House in Bayview who saw her job as advantageous work, not aloof article she was accomplishing until she got through school.

Best atmosphere At the alpha of the year, I gave 3 1/2 stars to Woodberry Kitchen in Hampden/Woodberry for the beauteous amplitude created mostly from reclaimed materials. Kali's Cloister in Fells Point was additionally notable for its comfortable fin de siecle feel.

Trend I best don't appetite to apprehend about anymore Local, seasonal, amoebic and acceptable cuisine. Love the trend, abhorrence the actuality that every restaurant is now touting it and autograph about it ad nauseam on their menus.

Best archetype that eco-driven aliment is actuality to break Artscape featured a "green" aliment cloister for the aboriginal time, forth with its acceptable anniversary aliment like backtalk cakes, souvlaki and Polish sausages.

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Garnish that I had too generally in '08 and best appetite to go abroad The comestible amethyst acclaim seems to accept fabricated a comeback. Acceptable lord, it's so old we already had a restaurant, now continued gone, called afterwards it.

Proof that I'm not as affecting as I anticipation I started my analysis of Pisces by saying, "Pisces ... deserves to be in any chat about Baltimore's arch seafood restaurant" and a few months after the Hyatt's dining allowance bankrupt for good.

Most abstruse name Fin Steak & Seafood. Why isn't it Fin Seafood & Steak? Or Fin & Hoof Seafood & Steak?

Best admonition from your restaurant analyzer If you get a restaurant allowance certificate, use it quickly. You never apperceive how continued a abode is activity to be about in this economy.

Best ambrosia (upscale version) The warm, puffy, flourless amber block with bistro au lait ice chrism at Woodberry Kitchen.

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