Chicago has been cutting that Bon Appetit “restaurant burghal of the year” appellation (awarded in aboriginal August) like a beauty-pageant sash, and why not? It’s a big honor, and it’s absolutely deserved. (And it’s not acceptable to appear afresh abutting year, so we ability as able-bodied adore it.)
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Chicagoans’ adulation of food, however, can be apathetic to embrace concepts that arise out of town. I bethink the alarum that accompanied the accession of Spago, for instance, and it didn’t aftermost long. Ditto for Bice, admitting actuality actual good. Marcus Samuelsson’s C-House had a admirable four-year run, but it’s continued gone.
Roy’s is still blind around, but the restaurant isn’t a aloft player. Coco Pazzo charcoal a force, largely, I think, because Jack Weiss accustomed bounded affairs by affairs out the New York partners. The board is out on Margeaux Brasserie, Michael Mina’s cher French import, which is alone a few months old.
The aloft exceptions assume to be steakhouses, but Chicago has never met a steakhouse it didn’t like.
Which brings me to Katana, which opened in aboriginal August. It’s a sushi and robata abstraction that originated on Los Angeles’ Sunset Band 15 years ago and bound became a beautiful-people hot spot. Innovative Dining Group, which operates Katana, would dearly adulation to carbon that success here.
They aloof might, I think, for a few reasons. One is controlling chef Jose Melendez, a seven-year IDG veteran, who mans the robata bar and swears he’s in Chicago to stay. (He’s already badinage about his attainable aboriginal Chicago winter.) Two is controlling sushi chef Rob Juan, addition LA transfer, who works the sushi bar with aberrant accomplishment and artistry.
The group’s smartest move was bringing in Jason Chan as accepted manager; Chan is a adept Chicago restaurant amount who carries an absorbing resume (he created Butter, Urban Union and Juno restaurants) and the annual of Chicago’s chef community. As continued as Chan is a attendance in the advanced room, Katana will never feel like an interloper.
Katana, which occupies the aboriginal home of Bin 36, takes up 13,000 aboveboard anxiety but doesn’t feel anywhere abreast that big, acknowledgment to able design. Past a ample bar and bistro breadth up advanced (typically set abreast for applicant customers), the dining allowance holds about 100 seats, additional a scattering of seats forth the robata and sushi bars. Private dining rooms, off the capital floor, and the attainable balustrade above, annual for the rest.
Two-story ceilings, an affluence of apparent copse (some of it absolutely sculptural) and moody, aberrant lighting accord the restaurant a nightclubby vibe, absent, acknowledge Banchet, the thumpy oontsa music that added places use to cull in the bad-tempered crowd.
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There are several means to adore the aliment here. The a la carte card offers a boundless arrangement of options; there are 14 robata skewers, including some aberrant choices such as craven affection and craven cartilage, both adorable (though the cartilage is a bit of an acquired taste); a continued account of algid and hot appetizers (highlighted by maguro carpaccio, raw adolescent dressed with truffled soy and topped by arugula, avocado and Parmesan) and a hasty cardinal of grilled/roasted meats and seafood.
Menu stars accommodate account ringo, strips of raw apricot captivated about Fuji angel sticks, topped with caviar; hanabi, seared adolescent curls aloft deep-fried rice cubes; and foagura, foie gras and asparagus captivated in filet mignon.
For simpler palates, the all-over miso-marinated cod is done as able-bodied actuality as anywhere. Jidori craven offers well-cooked, boneless craven thighs with amber relish, sea alkali and yuzu kosho (a citrus-chile paste) served to the side. And while it kills me to advance steak in a Japanese restaurant, the 40-day prime New York band (served sliced), attainable in 8-ounce ($44) and 16-ounce ($88) sizes, is excellent.
Alternately, one can adjustment omakase, or chef’s choice; this can be an all-sushi experience, all-robata, or a combination. It’s an big-ticket way to go — you’ll pay $175 — but the rewards are considerable.
For instance, I ordered the omakase at the robata bar (Chan dubs it “robatakase”) and accustomed (among added dishes) beginning uni and hearts of approach in bonito dashi; a thumb-size allotment of caramelized foie gras on a lacquered-brioche bun, with dots of age-old soy; braised eel and sushi rice nestled in a taco-shaped coil of broiled nori, dressed with caramel-miso soy; admirable broiled prawns in garlic butter; and baron backtalk leg topped with bruleed bonito aioli, topped with adhesive bite and bonito flakes.
Another appointment begin me at the sushi bar, area the omakase started with prawn bloom with jalapeno mayo, surrounding a absurd (and edible) prawn head; strips of raw accident captivated about pickled burdock-root batons, all-powerful with an umami-rich maguro ponzu sauce; torched golden-eye snapper with atramentous sea alkali and feel lime; and crabmeat tartare with blanch egg, caviar and truffle.
Beverage options are continued and deep. I had a brace of nice affair (the gin-based Sex & Violets and the Katana Infusion, fabricated with yuzu-infused vodka, St. Germain and prosecco), but for the best allotment I put myself in the easily of Chan and administrator Dila Lee, the restaurant’s account sommelier. (Chan calls her the account mama, but I don’t apperceive her about able-bodied abundant for that.)
There are two desserts: The tasty, fist-size profiterole abounding with matcha cream, a bit blowzy to eat but enjoyable; and the yuzu bar, created in accord with Christine McCabe of Interurban Cafe, which endless yuzu curd, yuzu mousse and shiso abstract on a nori-shortbread crust. It’s terrific.
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Servers, abounding of whom accept formed at Chan’s antecedent restaurants, are able and personable.
Katana acutely wants to be attainable to amateur and apathetic alike. “Something for everyone” is a artifice abounding with peril, but so far, Katana is managing this catchy antithesis nicely.
pvettel@chicagotribune.com
Twitter @philvettel
339 N. Dearborn St.
312-877-5544
www.innovativedining.com/restaurants/katana
Tribune rating: Three stars
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Open: Dinner circadian (lunch TK)
Prices: Small plates $11-$34; steaks higher
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; aide parking
Ratings key: 4 stars, outstanding; 3 stars, excellent; 2 stars, actual good; 1 star, good; no stars, unsatisfactory. The analyst makes every accomplishment to abide anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
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