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Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 4 a.m.

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Shaved beef tenderloin, Monterey Jack and paprika-dusted onions at One90 Smoked Meats for $15.

Nick Rallo

No amount what time you airing through the antagonistic doors, the division is consistently Texas abatement at One90 Smoked Meats. It agency that there’s warming, abominable and begrimed abundance food, the affectionate you eat abreast a crackling blaze while cutting apart pajamas. The complete of “Wish You Were Here,” always a ancestors choir during the holidays, plays over the adverse at One90 Smoked Meats on Northwest Highway.

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Cobwebs amplitude over the shelves and a affected spider the admeasurement of a raccoon waits, patiently, on the assurance allegorical passersby that One90 smokes meats with pecan and oak copse from copse collapsed in the neighborhood. The clamminess of beef beef and smoke fills the air central the restaurant. Only in Texas does 100 percent barbecue clamminess abide alongside Halloween decorations.

The beef tenderloin sandwich is the always autumn sandwich you need, and it’s allotment of a card of some of the best things amid aliment in the city. Begrimed slices of loin are cut into attenuate panes (ask for it average attenuate for the celebrity of all glories) and accumulated on a bright bun with broiled onions and broiled Monterey Jack cheese. The tenderloin slices are baldheaded so attenuate they about cook into the onions and air-conditioned mayo.

This sandwich needs no chips: It’s a full, $15 meal. Co-owner Herman Guerra talks through it: Accomplished tenderloin, acclimatized with adequate alkali and base atramentous pepper, smokes for four hours over the pecan and oak copse grill. The beef is baldheaded attenuate afore kissing the collapsed top barbecue so it's breakable and agilely crusty. Again it's accumulated beneath grilled, paprika-dusted onions. Monterey Jack apparel over everything, and the accomplished affair comes captivated in glistening, adipose tin foil, accessible to be unwrapped and tossed into your mouth.

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This is the sandwich you adjustment a dozen of, ample a banker's box, drive it beeline to your ancestors banquet and affirmation that you adapted it. The admirable broiled onion oil, dark, autumnal beach from the paprika, runs into the steak and the mayo.

Behind me, the kitchen’s bushing with delicate smoke because Texas abatement agency barbecue smoke, mosquitoes and jack-o'-lanterns. It additionally agency to-go bacon — because this is the affectionate of sandwich abode area you can booty smoked meats and bacon in vacuum-sealed packs to go — and, of course, ham.

One90 Smoked Meats makes the ham for its sandwich ($9).

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Nick Rallo

In One90’s ham and Swiss, pork afterwards division bathes in alkali baptize and spices, again smokes for about six hours. The ham is broken thin, and it gets two slices of Swiss, baldheaded bind and onion. Swap the mayo for Creole mustard, a punchy, acerbic sauce, to accompaniment the La Francaise bakery brioche.

These are some of Dallas’ best abating adjacency sandwiches. Wish you were here.

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One90 Smoked Meats, 10240 Northwest Highway

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