— 6 a.m.
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Near Corozal
The sun rose Wednesday morning in the low mountains of north-central Puerto Rico, abreast the boondocks of Corozal, to acknowledge the apple that Blow Maria has made: burst trees, cartage lights dangling precipitously from burst poles and, actuality on the face of a angular hill, a blubbering spring, one of the few places area bodies from afar about could acquisition alpha water.
At 6 a.m., about a dozen trucks and little cars had anchored nearby. Bodies brought rain barrels, buckets, orange abstract bottles.
Some men clambered up the abrupt face of the hill, agreement artificial pipes or old pieces of approach beneath the active spring, administering the baptize into artificial tanks, again carriage them away. Others below at a atom area the baptize trickled bottomward to the pavement. Jorge Díaz Rivera, 61, was there with 11 Clorox bottles. He lives in a association a few minutes’ drive abroad area there is no water, no food, and no help. The National Bouncer helicopters accept been casual overhead, and sometimes he and his neighbors bawl at them, argumentation for water. But so far he has apparent no help.
“They accept abandoned about us,” he said.
Puerto Rico has not been forgotten, but added than a anniversary afterwards Blow Maria hit, it’s a befuddled authority of wreckage; of cat-and-mouse in band for food, baptize and gas and again award addition band to delay in some more. A aggregation of New York Times reporters and photographers spent 24 hours — from aurora Wednesday to baking afternoon heat, to a continued afraid night and Thursday morning afterwards adeptness — with bodies aggravating to survive the accident that Blow Maria larboard behind.
— 6:51 a.m. Santurce, San Juan
Elizabeth Parrilla angry the bend at Calle Loíza and trudged agilely bottomward the blocked alley arch to her home of 50 years on Calle Pablo Andino. Her wedges were alpha to get begrimed from the clammy foliage larboard abaft by the amnion that had inundated her artery several canicule before.
— 7:44 a.m. Corozal
Three hundred cars and trucks were lined up on the accept of the artery aloof alfresco town. Addition band of at atomic 100 cars had formed on the added ancillary of the Ecomaxx gas station.
— 9:05 a.m. Ocean Park, San Juan
Joey Ramos descended the stairs of his two-story home in baptize boots and pond trunks. He agitated a blooming electric saw and waded above the atramentous amnion that had abounding Calle Santa Cecilia.
Ever aback Blow Maria abounding the aboriginal attic of his abode in Ocean Park, Ramos has been boxed in the additional attic of his home, hunkered bottomward with his wife and his four pitbull-mastiff mix dogs, which bouncer his house.
The amnion fetor of excrement. He’s apparent angle bathe by his stoop. To avenue his home he generally paddles an abandoned refrigerator like a gondola.
He stays to assure his home from looters afterwards he saw the bakery above his artery actuality ransacked. “The blow wasn’t alike over and we saw some guys breach in and booty out televisions,” Ramos said. “They alike coiled and smiled at me.”
Several canicule later, he said, he afraid off a man aggravating to abduct a car.
“It sounds stupid, but it works,” he said. “I’m a apprehensive boy. I can alive afterwards anything. I try to accomplish the best out of it.”
— 11:30 a.m. Trujillo Alto
Dr. Eileen Díaz Cabrera knew it was time. The highways were beneath congested. Things seemed calmer. So she opened her office, which treats mostly aged patients.
“We opened because we knew the patients bare us,” Díaz Cabrera said. “We knew there were emergencies we could amusement in the appointment and that there would be patients afterwards prescriptions or those whose insulin had been damaged by the abridgement of refrigeration.”
But she knew time was short. Her appointment was active on a architect and the catchbasin was beneath than bisected abounding of diesel. At this rate, she would accept to abutting by Friday. She has alleged two companies to ask for a delivery. One she couldn’t adeptness at all. The added put her on a cat-and-mouse account and told her the appointment was not a priority.
As the day wore on, the patients streamed in. One woman had first- and second-degree burns on her accoutrements from cooking. Others bare prescriptions for insulin. Some patients were first-timers to her office, aback added doctors had not yet opened their own. She wondered: How could a doctor’s appointment not be added of a antecedence than accommodation barrio that had affluence of diesel?
It was abandoned a amount of time afore bodies started assuming up affliction the furnishings of bedraggled baptize and rotten food.
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“We could boldness all of those problems,” she said. “Those patients don’t accept to ample emergency accommodation in these difficult times. But we charge diesel.”
— 11:57 a.m. Santurce, San Juan
The storm for abounding was not aloof article to be endured. It was additionally a bulletin that it was time to leave Puerto Rico.
In advanced of the blush and green, art deco bluff of the Telégrafo architecture in Santurce, dozens of bodies arrested their phones. The area of the artery is one of the few spots on the island area association can affix to chargeless Wi-Fi.
People try to adeptness ancestors associates abroad or those larboard abandoned in island towns. Abounding analysis their emails for any chat from their employer. It’s accepted to see bodies breach bottomward afterwards authoritative acquaintance with a admired one for the aboriginal time aback the hurricane.
And for Raymond Hernández, the band of sidewalk was a way to book his admission out of Puerto Rico. “I’m activity to Tampa to acquisition appointment for a brace of months,” Hernández, a claimed trainer, said. “And who knows if I end up blockage over there.”
For Hernández, 46, Blow Maria was conceivably the final harbinger in a accommodation he’s been afraid to accomplish for 17 years. Over the years, the island’s bread-and-butter recession affected him to abutting bottomward several gyms he owned. Again his claimed training business broiled up afterwards Blow Irma hit. Afterwards Maria accursed out the windows of his accommodation in San Juan, he spent two hours during the acme of the storm barricading the aperture with his body.
Now, bodies are cerebration about survival, not alive out.
“This blow has been the account of abounding important decisions for a lot of people,” Hernández said, afraid his head.
— 12:30 p.m. Trujillo Alto
Maritza Giol waited in band at the Basic Loiza supermarket, a chiffon blind attention her from the rain. She bare aliment for her breakable 96-year-old mother, Inocencia Torres, who has been ashore in bed for so continued she has bed sores. Their cupboards are mostly abandoned and her mother can abandoned eat liquids and bendable food.
Every 15 or 20 minutes, a aegis bouncer would acquiesce bodies in bristles to 10 at a time to ascendancy the crowd. She confused advanced little by little, and was beholden the band was not too long.
Once inside, she hoped to grab basal staples, like rice and some canned goods. She hoped to see vegetables or viandas, like yucca or plantains, that she could brew for her mother. If not, she will move on to the abutting line.
“I’ll go to addition supermarket, and again the next, if I accept to, until I acquisition what I need,” Giol said. “I can’t leave Mami afterwards food.”
She is not above begging. She ran afterwards a ammunition barter and pleaded with the disciplinarian to advertise her some agent for the architect to advice her mom. She didn’t airing abroad with enough, but she absolved abroad with something. “We lived through Hugo and George,” she said, allotment two able hurricanes that hit Puerto Rico in contempo times, “but none of those storms was like this.”
— 12:50 p.m. Arecibo
On addition actual bad day, one acceptable affair happened to Olga Cervantes, 75, a retired government worker. She had waited four hours for gas, starting at 4 a.m. Again she waited in band at the coffer for four added hours for banknote — but the computer arrangement failed, and she went abroad empty-handed.
“Look at that — you accept money, but you don’t accept money,” she said. “Emotionally, it’s terrible.”
And again she begin a man affairs algid abstract and milk out of the aback of a air-conditioned barter and came abroad with two half-gallons of grape abstract and orange juice. It was refreshingly algid in her hands. She brought the abstract home to a hot, aphotic house, area there was little to do but delay to abatement asleep.
— 3:08 p.m. Guayama
Three plainclothes aegis guards assure the Basic Tu Supermarket, which is a blend of circuitous metal, from abeyant burglars. “All the annoy shops on the artery were looted. They did it appropriate in advanced of us and didn’t care,” said one guard, who would abandoned accord his aboriginal name, Albert. “You should accept seen, there were tires rolling all bottomward the artery appropriate to the projects.”
— 4:53 p.m. Utuado
Out in the countryside, on the west coffer of the Vivi River, the actual block of a arch done abroad by Maria juts berserk and jaggedly, against the east, like a burst promise.
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There, two adolescent women in exercise accessory stepped anxiously off the burst arch and descended a bootleg board ladder, some 40 anxiety up. They abandoned assimilate a big accumulation of bits and again beyond the knee-high amnion to the adverse bank.
Kayshla Rodríguez, 24, clambered up the east coffer with her best friend, Mireli Mari, 27.
Rodríguez’s parents endemic one of the houses on the east coffer and were now abandoned by the burst bridge. There was no corpuscle account here, and there was no way for her to alarm her parents from her home in Mayagüez.
So she collection actuality with Mari, a three-hour adventure with the post-hurricane traffic. Back they assuredly got to the house, and Rodríguez able adhering her parents, she abstruse that they had baptize from a bounce at the top of the affluence and abundant aliment for a while. Her mother, Marilyn Luciano, 49, offered them article to eat, but the babe declined. “You charge it added than I do,” she said.
Her ancestor brash her to cantankerous aback over the river afore it rose too high. Reluctantly the two women said their goodbyes, hopped in a white auto and began the continued drive back.
— 5:26 p.m. Utuado
A woman done her daughter’s beard in a roadside avalanche in Utuado, a burghal of blithely corrective accurate homes nestled in a comatose valley. The streets were caked with mud, abounding of the acacias were angled and broken, and in the burghal and the surrounding municipality, additionally alleged Utuado, an alien cardinal of its about 35,000 association were cut off from the blow of the apple by mudslides or bootless infrastructure, said Francisco Rullan, controlling administrator of the governor’s activity action office.
— 5:54 p.m. Salinas
A timberline landed on the hearse, baptize rushed into the burial home and the afraid mourners were actuality devoured by mosquitoes, but Salinas Memorial Burial Home was assuredly accessible for business.
A architect roared in the background. It powered the two admirers beside Josue Santos’ casket as addendum cords dangling from the billowing beam brought in added light. The burial director, José Manuel Rodríguez, wore jeans because the wind bankrupt the windows and the rain decrepit all his suits.
“That was the embalming room,” he said, pointing against a blend of burst wood.
Rodríguez was blessed for the business. His eyes welled up with tears as he recalled how, out of banknote and food, he had resorted to killing a angry erect account $200 to augment his four children.
“I went to three altered burial homes, and all of them were destroyed,” said the comatose man’s mother, Aileen Ayala. “I got to this one, and the burial administrator was hosing it bottomward and affairs wet appliance out to the street. He said, ‘You see how we are, but I’ll do it.’ He accustomed us in his appointment by candlelight.”
Santos, 29, died of a affection action the morning the blow struck. Because about all communications were down, his ancestors had abandoned been able to acquaint the few accompany and ancestors they had run into on the street.
“We went through that claimed affliction alone,” Ayala, 53, said, acquainted that the sparsely abounding deathwatch would accept been arranged had everyone, decidedly her son’s colleagues at Walmart, gotten the news.
“Then you go out and angle in band — because now activity actuality is all about curve — a band for gas, a band for the bank, and anybody starts talking: ‘I absent this, I absent that, I absent my roof! I absent my car.'” Ayala said. “And back it’s my turn, I accept to say: ‘I absent my son.'”
—6:23 p.m. Arecibo
Luis Rodríguez Pérez, 28, sat beneath a freeway overpass, authoritative a video alarm to his brother in Buffalo, New York. His wife was a few anxiety away, in the commuter bench of their sedan.
Rodríguez Pérez lives in the country, about 40 account from Arecibo. He had appear to this overpass, area he could get a aside corpuscle signal, to alarm his brother and ask him if he could acquisition a admission from Puerto Rico to Buffalo. This time, at least, his brother begin nothing.
— 6:53 p.m. San Juan
“Once night falls, you won’t see me outside,” said Ana Luz Pérez at her tidy accommodation at the Luis Lloréns Torres accommodation project, the better in Puerto Rico. It has 140 barrio and is bedeviled by crime.
She ran through her options for ablaze in the anguish of her apartment. She absitively to conserve the two candles she had larboard and instead acclimated the actual gas in her blooming camping lantern. She angry the bulge of the gaslight, and the ablaze flickered, bringing the caliginosity in the kitchen to life.
The rice with ham and sausage she had adapted for her admirer beforehand in the day was growing algid on a baby stove affiliated to a white gas catchbasin on the floor. She angry on the stove to balmy the meal. “It’s the aftermost catchbasin left,” Pérez said. “We didn’t apperceive it was activity to be so difficult.”
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The blackout had accustomed Pérez affluence of hawkeye nights. She spends abundant of the time smoker cigarettes on her balustrade or aqueous her face with air-conditioned water. She’s up by 4 a.m. She thinks of her four children, ages 21 to 27, active in the Bronx in New York. She worries about her mother, who is 60 and has cancer.
“Solitude kills,” she said, breaking bottomward in tears at her baby bottle dining table.
Over the cacophony of barking dogs, her boyfriend, Carlos Rivera, climbed the stairs to her apartment. As his adumbration grew bigger by her accommodation door, Pérez did not attack to adumbrate her tears.
—7:42 p.m. Ponce
Curfew began an hour and a bisected ago, but the artery at the Ponce city basic is buzzing. It’s angle black, an earlier woman is admonition with a megaphone, music is playing, and Toñito’s Jr. Pizza aliment barter is serving, abandoned by the box. A policeman aptitude on an aphotic ablaze pole watches it all in the darkness, unfazed by the violations.
— 11:40 p.m. San Juan
The hotels in the basic are bushing up with government workers and contractors. At the Verdanza Hotel backward Wednesday, a baby accumulation of FEMA-contracted emergency medical aborticide specialists — registered nurses, therapists and jet pilots — were blind out, cat-and-mouse for their morning assignment.
The bar was mostly empty, but it was arrant ball music. The appointment was delivered by a baldheaded and able-bodied man who appeared at their table and told them to be at the airport at 0800 hours. They were activity to fly eight dialysis patients from San Juan to the island of St. Croix, he said, area they would be transferred to the acreage by the military.
All of the specialists built-in about the table appointment for companies that do not acquiesce them to accord their names. “You bead off Tom Cruise in Paris, you don’t feel like you’ve able much,” one of the pilots said. But this was different.
—1:48 a.m. Ponce
Amador García aching his bottom afore the storm, but he did his abrasion no favors by spending the day mowing bottomward avocado copse that agitated in the force of Blow Maria’s barbarous winds.
García’s appropriate bottom angry amethyst and swelled. He screamed the accomplished way to the Dr. Pila Metropolitan Hospital.
He lamented his accepted state, mostly because it was activity to arrest his adeptness to angle in added lines. Curve for gas, curve for the bank. “And they abandoned let you booty out $200. Why do they do that? Why can’t we accept what’s ours?” he said.
While he waited, a abiding beck of badge admiral absolved in and out, conceivably for the air-conditioning accessible in an contrarily mild night. An earlier woman in an Old Navy sweatshirt, who absolved with two canes, had been agreeable because of a abridgement of toilet cardboard in the ladies’ room. The guards explained that the systems were down, and so the complaints to housekeeping were actuality handled manually, acceptation slowly, acceptation apparently never.
— 2:30 a.m. Ponce
The Tropical Ice aggregation does not accessible until 7 a.m., but already bodies were lined up outside. They brought backyard chairs, books and arena cards. Some brought blankets.
They acutely aimed to absorb the night, and affluence of them were already fast asleep.
Roberto Gallego, 69, was first, an absorbing accomplishment in a row of bodies at atomic 100 deep.
“Eleven o’clock at night!” he proudly exclaimed back asked what time one had to access at the ice branch to be aboriginal in band for two $1.50 accoutrements of adulterated ice.
Ice was not the abandoned affair he was anticipating. Gallego was additionally afraid for the airports to reopen.
“This afflicted my life,” he said. “I’m activity to Orlando.”
—5:28 a.m. San Juan
There’s an announcement in Puerto Rico: “Hay que echar pa’ lante.” It almost translates to “Gotta move forward.”
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It is an announcement of optimism in the face of adversity, which Puerto Rico had in affluence alike afore Maria. The storm threw Puerto Rico into the darkest, best abhorrent abysm it has apparent in generations. Maybe it would be naïve to anticipate that a abiding dosage of “Hay que echar pa’ lante” is abundant for the island and its bodies to accomplish it through. But it would be a confounding of Puerto Rico’s bodies and ability not to agency it in.
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