★★
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I like the vibe at Fat Boyz Barbecue in Deerfield Beach, a awkward red architecture the admeasurement of a double-wide adaptable home with a mom-and-pop feel. And I like the aback adventure of architect Jarael Holston, an Ely Aerial alum and U.S. Army adept who bristles years ago started accomplishing barbecue fundraisers at his Fort Lauderdale church. He and wife Yolanda Holston, who abdicate her job at the column appointment a few years back, now accept a agile of three aliment trucks and their aboriginal brick-and-mortar restaurant, which opened in February 2017.
Unfortunately, I didn’t like abundant of the aliment at Fat Boyz on a contempo visit. The Texas-style brisket ($9.99 sandwich, $13.99 bowl with two sides) was OK, breakable pieces belted with able fat and a aside smoke ring. The burnt brisket ends ($11.99 sandwich, $16.99 plate) were good, the alone account with a acidity contour I liked, featuring an apple-cider alkali rub that cut the acidity of the barbecue sauce. The green-apple coleslaw was decent. Best aggregate abroad larboard me unfulfilled.
The additional ribs ($13.99) were adorable but soggy, with no exoteric crunch. The smoked pastrami ($13.99) was too acrid and added like corned beef, with no pepper, coriander or abysm about the edges. The bisected craven ($11.99) looked attractive but wasn’t acrid abundant and lacked smoke flavor. The pulled pork ($10.99) was a doughy banal mess, a amber abundance brave with Carolina alacrity booze that lacked acerbic punch. It looked like some of the Irma bits sitting on my block. The brisket-flecked broiled beans were too candied for my liking. The candied yams tasted awe-inspiring and metallic. The cornbread seemed bloody with no exoteric texture. The macaroni and cheese was overcooked to glue.
Mike Mayo / SouthFlorida.com
The beef-brisket sandwich ($9.99) at Fat Boyz Barbecue was satisfying, served on a absolutist cycle with clammy meat that had the appropriate bulk of fat about the edges.
The beef-brisket sandwich ($9.99) at Fat Boyz Barbecue was satisfying, served on a absolutist cycle with clammy meat that had the appropriate bulk of fat about the edges. (Mike Mayo / SouthFlorida.com)
When I batten with Jarael Holston a few canicule afterwards my visit, he took my criticism in stride, with a turn-the-other audacity animation befitting his accomplished as a abbey pastor. He prides himself on the mac and cheese, a alloy of Velveeta, provolone and Mexican cheeses that is declared to accept a crunchy, golden-brown top layer. It is a big agent and acclimated as a topping for change meat sandwiches, including the Big Daddy ($12 with pulled pork, brisket). He said addition chump complained the day of my appointment about the macaroni batch, which was larboard at too aerial a temperature on the beef table. Holston additionally explained that the arch cook, his brother, was out aftermost anniversary ambidextrous with Irma accident at his home.
I accept that partly explains the advanced abysm amid my acquaintance and that of the adherent public, which has been packing the abode for months. Fat Boyz has Google and Facebook ratings of 4.9 (from added than 300 reviews) and a Yelp appraisement of 4.5 from 180 reviews. There can be continued curve and deficient parking spots. “Most of our barter are actual understanding,” Holston says. “We’re a baby place.”
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Mike Mayo / SouthFlorida.com
The barbecued craven (top right) at Fat Boyz Barbecue had appealing blurred bark and was dank in spots, but bare added salt, aroma and flavor. The pulled pork (bottom right) came in a alacrity sauce, but was doughy and lacked acerbic punch.
The barbecued craven (top right) at Fat Boyz Barbecue had appealing blurred bark and was dank in spots, but bare added salt, aroma and flavor. The pulled pork (bottom right) came in a alacrity sauce, but was doughy and lacked acerbic punch. (Mike Mayo / SouthFlorida.com)
The central seats alone 35, and there are a few barbecue tables on the patio. On Saturdays, Fat Boyz about serves added than 400 customers. The restaurant does not serve beer, partly because Holston doesn’t appetite bodies to linger. That I understand. But I don’t get why Fat Boyz serves alone aperitive algid tea. A dining accompaniment capital absinthian and was told it is not available. Holston says the restaurant offered absinthian at the beginning, but it didn’t advertise and they concluded up casting best of it.
Holston employs a dozen ancestors and friends, including his 16-year-old son, Tykari Higgs, who mans the chop block back Holston isn’t around. Yolanda works the advanced register, demography orders from a baby window. The restaurant is bankrupt Sundays and Mondays, giving time for a blow while the aliment trucks still hit the road.
Holston uses hickory to smoke, and he says his barbecue aesthetics is to baker low and slow. He says he grew up about grills and smokers in Pompano Beach, and he best up his brisket- and meat-rub address from Texans he met in the Army and in Kuwait, area he formed for a clandestine contractor. He additionally best up Carolina and Georgia influences from his time at Fort Benning, Ga. The abbey cookouts at the Life Transformation Center in Fort Lauderdale led to his aboriginal aliment barter in 2013, which he anchored at a gas base on Atlantic Boulevard and Powerline Alley in Pompano.
Mike Mayo / SouthFlorida.com
Fat Boyz Barbecue, at 204 S. Powerline Alley in Deerfield Beach, opened in February 2017 in a comfortable red architecture absorbed to a railroad caboose, above armpit of the Lil' Ole Berth burger restaurant.
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Fat Boyz Barbecue, at 204 S. Powerline Alley in Deerfield Beach, opened in February 2017 in a comfortable red architecture absorbed to a railroad caboose, above armpit of the Lil' Ole Berth burger restaurant. (Mike Mayo / SouthFlorida.com)
His trucks, which serve amalgam abundance aliment such as pulled-pork egg rolls and brisket nachos, pale out contest from Wynwood to Jupiter, and accept acquired a able afterward from approved cafeteria encampments abreast the Broward County Courthouse, universities and accumulated parks. The trucks accord the restaurant a business boost. The truck’s card items are additionally accessible at the restaurant, amid at the above armpit of Lil’ Ole Berth burger.
Barbecue is inherently subjective. Some bodies like the amazon acidity of Kansas City meats, others the dry-rubbed aroma of Memphis ribs. In South Florida, our melting-pot influences leave us all over the map. Holston says he had to baggage bottomward adventurous acerbic flavors from the Carolinas that he brand afterwards accepting abrogating chump feedback. It explains the aerial acidity of the pulled pork and collard greens, which I active up with a bartering vinegar-pepper booze begin on tables.
A abridgement of a signature bounded appearance can be liberating yet arduous for bounded smokers and pit masters. They aren’t apprenticed to any accurate aesthetics except acceptable over customers. On this front, I accept Fat Boyz Barbecue is a acquaintance success. The band can anatomy after me.
mmayo@southflorida.com, 954-356-4508. Follow my aliment adventures on Instagram: @mikemayoeats. Sign up for my account dining newsletter at SouthFlorida.com/EatBeatMail.
Fat Boyz Barbecue
204 S. Powerline Road, Deerfield Beach
954-415-4810 or FatBoyzBarbecue.com
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Cuisine: Barbecue
Cost: Inexpensive to moderate. Cafeteria specials amount $6.99, sandwiches $7.99 to $13, platters $10.99 to $21.99, abandon $2.75 to $5.25
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Bankrupt Sunday-Monday.
Reservations: No
Credit cards: All major
Bar: No
Noise level: Conversational
Handicapped access: Ramp from parking lot to patio and ancillary entrance
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