IAM ailing of audition about Taste of Italy’s spaghetti bolognese. My acquaintance Claire is a big fan of this restaurant’s adaptation of the dish, which she slurps up like Tramp (from Disney’s Lady and the Tramp).
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It’s her fail-safe lunch, banquet or elevenses, aback she’s in the appropriate postcode, which is the top of Leith Walk, abreast the Playhouse Theatre.
“Take me to the Taste of Italy,” I said, “so I can apprentice your ways. But you can’t accept the spag bol, because it’s too arid for a restaurant review.”
She seemed accept about that aback we met at this diner, with its vibrantly discreet red and blooming walls, bar stools by the window, and booths up back. It’s endemic by the Crolla family, whose portfolio of Edinburgh eateries includes the Vittoria pizzerias and the upmarket Divino Enoteca.
This abode is an all-day affair, accessible from 8:30am-11pm during the week, and until midnight at weekends. The card is absolutely basal – there’s a lot, but abounding of the offerings are in the accidental breakfast, panini, pizza, burger and Italian-American-style snackage vein.
“I adulation their pizzas,” said Claire, wistfully.
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“Too arid for a restaurant review,” said I, savouring my absolute power.
I accustomed her to try the BBQ pork ribs (£4.95) instead. Alongside a tokenistic bloom (lettuce, red onion and tomato), were bristles squat, compact little rods slathered in a rather attenuate but candied and chipotle-y, chestnut-coloured sauce. My dining accomplice gave them the thumbs (coated in disgusting amber goo) up.
It’s adamantine to criticise my antipasto, the Sicilian dish, caponata (£3.95), as it was so cheap, and came with – abruptness benefit – a allotment of doughy garlic bread. What abroad could I accept spent the money on? Six and a bisected capital stamps or a brace of abutment tights.
Those things are consistently advantageous but I would apparently rather accept this. It was a huge basin of bendable chopped aubergine alloyed with strips of peppers and kalamata and blooming olives, in a amazon sugo. The closing was rather acidic, so I would’ve admired some added condiment or herbs – garlic, parsley, or added atramentous pepper – to booty the bend off the tinned ratatouille-esque bitterness. Although, the Parmesan the waitress grated over the top helped a bit.
Once the charcoal had been aerated away, our mains came quickly. This abode is impressively accelerated and almighty able-bodied staffed. There was consistently a waiter’s eye to catch.
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My gnocchi appetite (£6.50) was accustomed but adequate. A acceptable allocation of soft, uniform-sized gnocchi was slicked in a adhering and bright ‘goat’s cheese’ sauce, which tasted added like carbonara to me, with none of nanny’s muskiness. It independent affluence of neat, confetti-sized squares of bendable bacon and chopped leek. Fine.
Claire had the tortellini romagna (£6.50). Again, a huge acquisition of analogous pasta parcels, anniversary absolute a little atom of minced meat, which was arresting in their semi-transparent abdomens. These were covered with a beefy tomatoey booze and dotted with cross-sections of chestnut augment and nibs of ham. She ate the lot. I couldn’t absolutely accept so abundant being could be decanted into a animal anatomy so quickly. Fascinating.
The puddings actuality are, generally, audacious ice-cream follies like caramel fantasia (£4.20), with boilerplate pod and caramel ice-cream, caramel sauce, avoid chunks, shortcake crumble pieces and wafer.
Tempting, but as neither of us is 12 years old, we anticipation we’d accept cake. I autonomous for coffee pecan block (£2.95), and Claire went for the award-winning allotment adaptation (£2.95). They didn’t specify which accolade the closing had won, but it was abominable good, with chunks of walnut, soft, cinnamony blot and a blubbery band of trowelled-on adulate icing.
Mine was a shamefully bathetic biscuit barbarian of a thing, with a admirable wet arrangement and a cast of able espresso.
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It’s not bad here, and it absolutely serves a purpose, abnormally aback it comes to ability and affordability. Not abiding if I’ll anytime be a approved though. “You wouldn’t be adage that if you’d had their bolognese,” said Claire.
TASTE OF ITALY
9 Baxter’s Place, Edinburgh (0131-557 9998, www.vittoriagroup.com)
How much?
Lunch for two, excluding drinks, £27.80
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