By Troy Johnson | Photography by Justin McChesney-Wachs
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Published: 2017.09.23 07:00 AM
Saint Jacques du Maine scallops with broiled corn, asparagus, sea beans, boilerplate lavender foam, and mango gel.
My baptize canteen about became abandoned one time. The applesauce music is a tad low, and that seems like a apathetic endorsement of the genre. I ambition it were Charles Mingus. A calefaction beachcomber has hit San Diego this black and the allowance is a tad warm, so I’m affected to ask the server to about-face on the air conditioning (he affably does so immediately). With alone one maddening alley in and out, cartage and certifiable break are consistently a risk. I ambition the wine were free. The wine could be free.
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These are the sum of my complaints about Alehouse du Marché. In over a decade of reviewing restaurants, I’ve never struggled to acquisition a fault. I’m paid for apathetic honesty, hopefully dispensed with tact. A absolute night of banquet account is a unicorn. Restaurant kitchens are a accustomed abode for all breed of errors. They are anarchic mechanisms, operated by the best amiss of machines—people. There is consistently an under-seasoned dish, a abridgement of acid, an overcooked protein, a burst sauce, an awkward presentation, blotchy service, something.
Over two visits, Alehouse du Marché by Tapenade was as near-perfect a restaurant as I’ve experienced. Under-attended, maybe, and a little lonely. Admittedly, I visited them on a Monday and Tuesday night, back best dining apartment are barren. But the account and the food—dish afterwards bowl afterwards alcohol afterwards dish—were impeccable, inspiring, accessory revelations. Maybe the buttery appearance could’ve had a bit added salt. Maybe.
Meals this adequate are consistently shocking, but beneath so back Jean-Michel Diot is involved. Alehouse du Marché’s French chef-owner started his career at a bulk of two- and three-star Michelin restaurants in his built-in country (Restaurant Magnard, La Pyramide, Restaurant Jacqueline Fenix, Les Pres d’Eugenie) afore landing his aboriginal arch chef gig at Le Royal Gray, area he becoming two Michelin stars of his own. He confused to New York in 1987 to accessible Maxim’s de Paris, again got a three-star analysis from the New York Times at his abutting stop, Park Bistro, afore finishing his NYC career at the admirable Les Halles and Brasseries des Theatres.
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Most San Diegans are accustomed with what he did next—move to La Jolla in 1998 and accessible Tapenade with his wife, Sylvie. That flush French alehouse sat abreast the top of the city’s dining arena for 17 years. Affected to move from Fay Avenue in 2015, Diot and chef de cuisine Miguel Baez reconcepted as Alehouse du Marché, a bistronomie (a abstraction of seasonal, accidental dining with highfalutin, aesthetic elements of gastronomy, not clashing America’s casual-gourmet movement of high-end chefs aperture un-stuffy, come-as-you-are joints).
A few gold standards from Tapenade survived the name change, like the country-style pork pâté—Diot’s grandmother’s recipe, the server informs us. Country-style, or pâté de campagne, agency the pork meat and alarmist aren’t as cautiously ground, so it’s a textural alloy of cottony and meat. Thanks, Grandma. Theirs is lighter, airier than best country-style terrines, its fat agreeable cut through with Dijon mustard. (Wait, a critique! Not abundant mustard!) A bloom comes with broiled beets in avoid fat and a near-savory dupe cheese ice cream, auto gel, and horseradish gel. This bowl embodies the high/low, then/now aesthetics of bistronomie—the accustomed broiled beet with avant-garde affable ideas. Another Tapenade archetypal is the about wonton-light ravioli blimp with a duxelles of 16 altered types of mushrooms amphibian in a barmy borsch of anchorage wine, truffles, and cream. If you don’t adore this dish, seek medical attention.
For wine, I consistently do the aforementioned thing: name my amount point (circa $60) and ask the sommelier or best able wine actuality to aces a canteen that plays able-bodied with our orders. Our server selects the cabernet-based Bordeaux, 2011 Château Saint Ahon. The 60-percent cab will bore the steak, the 30-percent merlot and a ablaze blooming agenda mellows it for the halibut.
The broiled octopus is both breakable and broiled off for texture, laid amid cannellini beans and citrus. Pulled all calm in a distinct bite, it’s harmony. For article unique, try the dejected backtalk and mango salad. A baby belfry of alpha backtalk is ample in a coconut-lime emulsion, evoking the about-face in French affable back France colonized Vietnam. On Tuesdays, it’s moule frites night, and du Marché’s are perfect—each mollusk tossed continued abundant in its white wine borsch that you don’t alike charge to douse the tiny morsels of meat, although why not? The fries, crisped in peanut oil (the best oil for frying), are infectious. I douse them in the mussels borsch and the adamantine edges of activity cook away.
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And actuality we get to the affliction allotment of our acquaintance at du Marché—that accursed buttery spinach. It’s average. Lacks a blow of seasoning, an identity, a wow. It’s acceptable. And adequate is not adequate at this point in my du Marché experience. I’m spoiled.
Really, annihilation on the card with a booze is adamantine to unlove. The beef tenderloin au poivre is tender. Some pepper sauces amplify it, tasting like a food-based pepper spray. Du Marché’s is affluent with chrism and liquor and umami, with the absolute acknowledging agenda of spice. Again there’s the auto chrism booze on the circadian bolt (Alaskan halibut), aloof abundant traces of it to emphasis but not beat the fish. Or the vanilla-lavender chrism and mango gel with the Maine diver scallops. Scallops adulation lavender, but generally chefs charge a abstinent adjustment on their use of it; du Marché’s is balanced, aloof alien and candied enough, with sea beans to accommodate a accustomed littoral salinity.
Desserts are area I consistently acquisition fault. Best agreeable chefs aren’t able pastry chefs, and few restaurants can allow to pay both. So the chef de cuisine pulls out a brace so-so recipes they bethink from comestible academy and accord it a halfhearted go. And yet, no flaws. At this point I’m a little peeved.
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The île flottante (floating islands), a archetypal French dessert, has air-soft meringue afloat in crème anglaise and caramel booze with broiled almonds. It tastes like Michelin stars. The profiteroles are coated in a aphotic amber booze and blimp with Grand Marnier ice cream, and the melancholia clafouti—another French classic, and accessible to blend up—has spiced apples, buttery central like a soufflé.
When the Diots took their French ancestry a few blocks over, and a blow out of the way, I hoped it wasn’t the alpha of the end. And with anniversary chaw of a new dish, my acquaintance and I—he actuality a accepted doubtable who’s been with me on many, abounding analysis dinners—looked at anniversary added with awe. The name and the allowance accept changed, but the aptitude of Diot and Baez is as able as ever.
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