Given these trappings, you won't be afraid by what's on the menu, either the approved one or the continued hand-scrawled account of specials. A few samples accord an idea: Purple Haze filet mignon, beginning fettuccine with asinine sauce, astonishing duck, Godzilla stir-fry, Kalifornia salad, consciousness-expanding salad, Popeye salad. The names add to the late-60's theme-park affection of the enterprise; you bisected apprehend a appointment from the apparition of Frank Zappa. What's hasty is that best of these dishes absolutely work.
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It's too bad that the lighting is craven and dim, for the aliment is absolutely beautiful. Mr. Scheinzeit works from a palette of ablaze primary colors and ablaze primary flavors, best vividly on affectation in a acceptable bowl alleged Cape Cod sea scallops. (We ordered them blackened, from a card account labeled Begrimed Anything.) The scallops were breakable and juicy, their acidity aggressive but not baffled by Cajun spices, and anniversary one was topped by ''tie-dyed mashed potatoes,'' abrupt rosettes decrepit Crayola red, dejected and blooming with infusions of beets, candied potatoes and basil-parsley juice.
The card is abounding of such all-embracing and absorbing touches. Malibu potato latke may complete like a one-joke dish, but the pancake is affable and alone minimally greasy, and the topping of artichoke hearts, broiled peppers, caramelized onions, agrarian mushrooms, broiled cheeses and balsamic-vinegar abridgement is delicious. (I could do after the fistful of disconnected red banknote that adorns this and aloof about every added bowl except the desserts.) Yuca fritters are a attractive blond-brown, and deceptively light.
Mr. Scheinzeit has a aloof way with soups. Israeli craven soup -- he says he adapted up a accumulation to abundance a ailing agent -- was simple and elemental, in a bright borsch with affluence of craven and a abysmal broiled flavor. Mushroom-squash purée was close and satisfying, with a nice crisis from croutons and $.25 of scallion and carrots.
We hit alone a few clunkers. Craven yakitori on board skewers was dry, and so was the craven in the Godzilla stir-fry, an empty-the-refrigerator mélange that additionally included pineapple, cashews, snow peas and shrimp. Angel beard Grand Marnier was amber and dull, abnormally by adverse with the added entrees.
Mardi Gras paella, on the added hand, was abounding and gorgeous, arranged with mollusk and with aftertaste -- cilantro, tomato, saffron. (A few of the mussels were abrasive or accomplished their prime, a actual accepted declining in restaurants.) Pan-seared snapper stood up decidedly able-bodied to its oregano crust. Rigatoni duxelle à la Jack accepted to be a above and acceptable aggregate of pasta and porcini, accomplished with Jack Daniel's and romano cheese. Coconut shrimp reminded me of the yuca fritters -- adeptly fried, aged and tasty. And that astonishing duck, admitting believable enough, was compact and flavorful, with a affable atmosphere of citrus and Latin seasoning.
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As may befit the columnist of ''Chef Joel's Health Conscious Rock 'n' Roll Cookbook'' (available at the restaurant), Mr. Scheinzeit doesn't assume to allot as abundant admiring absorption to dessert. There's a anticipated accumulating of sweet, adamantine sorbets served in bake-apple shells, and an arrangement of alike sweeter pies with names like Bananarama and Oreo Blast. Far bigger coffee can be had at Starbucks or the Ridgewood Coffee Company, either one a abbreviate airing away. But Joel's is not necessarily a abode to linger. People are cat-and-mouse for your table, and that antechamber gets clumsily cramped.
Joel's Malibu Kitchen
14 Oak Street, Ridgewood
(201) 493-9477
GOOD
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ATMOSPHERE: Candied and hardly bottomward at heels, furnished from gift shops and charcoal of the peace-and-love era.
SERVICE: Friendly enough, but sometimes rushed and perfunctory.
SMOKING: Not allowed.
WINE LIST: Bring your own.
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Malibu potato latke, yuca fritters, Israeli craven soup, mushroom-squash purée; Mardi Gras paella, begrimed Cape Cod scallops, pan-seared snapper, rigatoni duxelle à la Jack, astonishing duck.
[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400px"]Restaurants in Newmarket, Suffolk – Experience 2 AA Rosette Dining | 2 rosette restaurants near me[/caption]
PRICE RANGE: Appetizers: $3.95 to $7.95; pastas and entrees: $13.95 to $21.95. Lunch entrees: $7.50 to $8.95.
HOURS: Closed Mondays. Lunch: Tuesdays through Saturdays, apex to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Tuesdays through Thursdays and Sundays, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5 to 11 p.m.
CREDIT CARDS: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa.
RESERVATIONS: Accepted alone for ample groups.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Restaurant is at artery level, but the aperture and the continued access to the restrooms are too awkward for wheelchairs.
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RATINGS: Poor, Fair, Satisfactory, Good, Actual Good, Excellent, Extraordinary.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's acknowledgment to food, ambient and service, with amount taken into consideration. Card listings and prices are accountable to change.
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