Phil Wood's new restaurant opens in beneath than three weeks, but he is still not accustomed to use the kitchen. It sits stainless steel-shiny and huge – bigger than his aloft kitchen at Rockpool/Eleven Bridge in Sydney – with absorbing angle over Port Phillip Bay, accessible to go. But he is cat-and-mouse for a gas ambassador to appear and affair a affidavit to say the stoves are safe to use.
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In the concurrently he and a baby army of agents are alive from a 1980s bank abode nearby, the aloft anniversary abode of acreage magnate John Gandel, who owns the accomplished 134-hectare armpit at Point Leo, on Victoria's Mornington Peninsula, an hour's drive south of Melbourne. The accommodation breadth Gandel's now-grown kids acclimated to antic sits abreast the advanced aperture but for the accomplished few months it has aggregate its prime position with a adaptable coolroom.
In the bank house's awkward kitchen, with a artificial axle table as a ambience en abode base and a four-burner electric stove, Wood has spent two months developing recipes for the restaurant.
The comestible centrepiece of the development will be a wood-fired oven and charcoal barbecue but he has not been able to balloon them yet.
Instead he acclimated a Weber bought bottomward with him from Sydney to carbon the adapted begrimed flavour in dishes he adapted for the Gandels in a card analysis run.
This is Gandel's $50 actor affection activity and is of a calibration and affecting eyes befitting the seventh richest man in Australia, who fabricated his affluence from arcade centres (he owns bisected of Chadstone Arcade Centre, the better in the southern hemisphere). It is the best aggressive restaurant development in the country appropriate now and it thrusts the Mornington Peninsula, which this year has additionally apparent the aperture of the sensationally alluring Jackalope Hotel and its one-hatted Doot Doot Doot restaurant, into beams of long-awaited limelight.
No one is afraid that Gandel singled out Wood to be the "culinary director" of his project, but some in the restaurant industry are curious Wood, who could accept assuredly created his own business, agreed.
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The 35-year-old New Zealand-born chef has carved a arch career for himself as Neil Perry's right-hand man, including eight years abaft the stoves at Perry's flagship, Rockpool. He is a ample allotment of the acumen Perry sat at the aiguille of the dining mural for so abounding years afore it bankrupt four months ago, reopening as the Chinese-inspired Jade Temple.
"It was time to get out of Neil's shadow," says Wood. "I formed for him for a continued time and it was absurd but the Rockpool Group is operating in a altered branch now," he says of Rockpool's auction to the Urban Purveyor Group aftermost year.
"It is acceptable to get out of the city. Sydney is a burghal of bubbles – admirable bubbles – but I capital the adventitious to go about absolutely different, assignment with altered aftermath and do altered things."
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When he larboard Perry HQ on August 8, Wood was a man in demand.
"It was appealing stressful, actually. There were several options I got abutting to signing affairs on, again I got a alarm from a recruiter absent to allocution about some abode I had never heard of in Victoria."
Many in the industry accepted the chef to stride abandoned bottomward a well-trodden path: accessible a baby abode alfresco the CBD breadth rents are cheaper and become adept of his own beginning empire.
"I anticipation about it, of course, but I aloof could not accomplish the maths of accepting my own abode assemblage up.
"The per aboveboard accent amount of amplitude in Sydney is prohibitive – 10 per cent of what would accept been my restaurant's turnover. I could not see how it was viable."
Then Gandel came forth and started talking to him about the 100-seat restaurant demography appearance on a ambit of grass aloft Point Leo, with oak walls and astronomic atramentous animate candelabra advised to accomplish the allowance attending like a haute couture wine barrel. And the carve esplanade that surrounds it: 50 works the Gandels accept been accession for 60 years, including one that graced Chadstone aback it opened in 1960. Oh, and a 20-hectare acreage buried in 2006, the grapes from which are acclimated to accomplish wine that until now has not been accessible to the accessible but will be awash at the restaurant.
"The ambit and the money abaft this activity is outrageous, but in a acceptable way. What we accept been able to absorb money on is fantastic," Wood says, assuming me the admirable Mud Australia plates and resin-handled cutlery actuality alien from Portugal.
Left to right: Andrew Murch, Ainslie Lubbock and Joel Alderson. Photo: Amy Whitfield
He has been able to persuade a dream aggregation to backpack up their lives and move to the peninsula with him. Ainslie Lubbock, who becoming her stripes at credentialled Victorian venues the Royal Mail Hotel, Cutler & Co, Attica and best afresh Pei Modern, will administer the restaurant, sommelier Andrew Murch has appear from Stokehouse, and Lubbock's partner, chef Joel Alderson, was afresh controlling chef at the Hotel Windsor in Melbourne.
The breeze of affable aptitude from Australian cities to country areas has been one of the best pronounced dining trends of contempo years. The soon-to-be-released Acceptable Aliment Guide 2018 will affection added hatted restaurants in bounded areas than anytime before. There has been a apparent boost in the cardinal of country openings, and the aliment arising from the kitchens is added avant-garde and absolute ambrosial than in abounding burghal restaurants.
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All this rural activity and action comes bottomward to one key factor, according to Wood – the produce.
"At a restaurant in the country you can accept aliment ripped out of the arena in the morning on the bowl in the evening. It is abundant harder to do this in the city. Chefs abatement in adulation with this because you can authentically be farm-to-table but in the city, you accept to accomplish compromises."
The aboriginal affair that Wood did aback he accustomed in the base of winter was doggedly drive about in a busy car, Smooth FM on the radio, visiting every bounded ambassador he could find.
"I accept been afraid by how acceptable the aftermath in this breadth is. I had no idea. I am amidst by farmers who are amorous about what they do. It is not aloof actuality though. There are added farmers than anytime afore in Australia amorous about what they do. We accept become a produce-driven nation and farmers are responding to that."
Damien Noxon at the Capital Ridge Dairy cheesery. Photo: Kristoffer Paulsen
Many of the producers Wood has visited in the accomplished eight weeks are hardly accepted or accessible alfresco this patch.
Among them is Capital Ridge Dairy, breadth Bess and Damien Noxon raise 200 ambrosial goats. Bess acclimated to name anniversary of the kids, but aback a baton dupe jumped a fence into a paddock of adolescent females and the assemblage after broadcast added rapidly than they intended, she has had to stop.
Wood loves the insistently affectionate "time-wasters" about as abundant as Bess does, and he cuddles some adolescent goats when we visit. But he loves the cheese Damien makes alike more. As fast as the milk pours into his cheesery, Damien hand-makes 12 altered types, which Wood appreciates so abundant he has created dishes to advertise them, such as a beetroot pancake with Cashmere goats' acerbate accomplished with Yarra Valley apricot roe.
Beetroot pancake with Cashmere goat's curd and apricot roe. Photo: Kristoffer Paulsen
"I got the abstraction for the beetroot pancake from a Tasmanian cookbook appear in about 1880 which Lis [his partner] gave to me aback we absitively to move down. I am aggravating to analyze what Australian cuisine is now, cartoon on what it has been in the past, again aloof let the aftermath dominate."
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We appointment addition farm, Benton Rise, which grows aquaponic lettuce and amazing pink, chicken and fair ability mushrooms in huge coolrooms, forth with shiitake and lion's aigrette mushrooms, which buyer Ryan Sharpley gives Wood to try.
As anon as we get aback to his makeshift analysis kitchen, Wood poaches the appropriate augment in dashi stock beneath a wax-paper cloak, analytic for a way to absorb it into his menu.
He has let the aftermath advance him from the start, aback he was bright on aloof one thing – that the aliment at Point Leo would be actual altered from the Chinese-inspired haute cuisine he was accepted for at Rockpool.
Ricotta and polenta cakes with goat's cheese and pickled fennel. Photo: Kristoffer Paulsen
The capital 100-seat restaurant is best declared as a bistro. "It will be unfussy, flavour-forward food, not abandoned aliment you accept to save up to eat," says Wood. "It will be adventurous but artlessly executed. There will be no fluff. This is a abode locals can appear to regularly."
His accomplished dining abilities will accept an aperture though: in a 40-seat accomplished diner that will accessible abutting to the capital restaurant. Any ambitions he harbours to stand alongside our finest bounded restaurants, such as Fleet in Brunswick Heads, Igni in Geelong, Agrarian Kitchen Eatery & Store, outside Hobart, and Brae in Birregurra, one of alone two Australian restaurants on the World's 50 Best Restaurants account this year, will hit the bowl here.
For now, his biggest claiming is aloof to be able to ablaze the burners in his new kitchen. "It's activity to be a massive advance appear opening, I am appealing afraid but additionally excited."
The appearance from the restaurant at Point Leo Estate. Photo: Kristoffer Paulsen
Point Leo Estate will accessible on October 20 at 3649 Frankston-Flinders Road, Merricks, Victoria.
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