Critic: we analysis Cafe Boulud, the accidental Yorkville alehouse from New York chef Daniel Boulud
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Toronto accepted four-star French dining from Cafe Boulud in the Four Seasons. Instead, the burghal got addition abreast two-star bistro
By Jared Banal | Photography by Emma McIntyre
Daniel Boulud is a actual acclaimed chef. Perhaps you apperceive him from TV, area he’s been a common adjudicator on Top Chef and appeared on Barefoot Contessa and Late Night With Jimmy Fallon. You may apperceive him from his seven cookbooks or from Letters to a Young Chef, his self-help book for ambitious chefs. If you’ve been to one of his 14 restaurants—in New York City, Miami, Palm Beach, London, Singapore, Beijing or Montreal—you ability alike apperceive him from his food.
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His French-American affable is delicate, precise, absurd and affluent to a point of near-carnal luxury. He has congenital an authority on burgers blimp with abbreviate ribs and foie gras (you can feel yourself inching against the grave with every absurd bite) and adventurous twists on French classics, like agrarian hare bouillon thickened with aphotic amber and blood. Boulud grew up in France and confused to New York in the ’80s, area he became the chef at Le Cirque, the allegorical white linen institution. In 1993 he opened Daniel, his own abundant New York restaurant, which has accustomed dozens of comestible accolades over the aftermost 20 years.
That’s area I aboriginal tasted his cooking. My mother took me to Daniel in the aboriginal ’90s for my 13th birthday. You ability anticipate a four-star banquet would be ashen on a kid, but I was ardent with the annealed tablecloths, the swirls and gelées that looked like jewels on the plate. That meal has backward with me as a admonition of what dining, accomplished or otherwise, can be—a affair of beauty, complication and wit. Since then, Boulud has adapted into accidental concepts, like DBGB, a disorderly sausage house, and two Café Bouluds, which are added airy than Daniel, admitting still luxe.
This October, Boulud brought his cast to Toronto’s new Four Seasons Hotel, with dbar in the antechamber and a Café Boulud, his third in the franchise, upstairs. He’s the additional above New York chef to tap the Toronto bazaar recently, abutting David Chang, who opened his Momofuku circuitous on University Avenue aftermost September. Toronto diners agilely advancing their arrivals, apperception that anniversary one would become a comestible destination. Momofuku already has—Chang crude his audible East Village hipster affection to burning success. At Boulud’s new restaurant, however, the chef’s affection is abysmal in a ataxia of Toronto trends.
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Hotel antechamber confined are awfully bland, and dbar is accurate to type. Every aspect of the experience, from the dawdling abode music to the lugubrious bartenders to the forgettable cocktails, seems to draw afflatus from the biscuit furnishings. The adornment at Café Boulud upstairs, advised by Rosalie Wise Sharp, the wife of Four Seasons architect Isadore Sharp, is worse. The rusty-brown textured walls resemble the Flintstones’ active room, and the bubbled bottle tables will address alone to diners with a cornball affection for ’90s patio furniture. The amplitude is covered in blatant celebrity portraits (all of which, the card notes, are for sale) by Mr. Brainwash, who rose to acclaim in the artery art documentary Exit Through the Gift Shop. (The art apple is still debating whether Mr. Brainwash is a absolute artisan or a mockumentary joke.) Sculptures by the Canadian artists David Calles and Sue Rankin are broadcast about the room—token Canadiana amid the pop art Albert Einsteins.
The card is a acceptable aberration from the chaos. It’s disconnected into four parts: La Tradition (French classics), La Saison (seasonal dishes), Le Potager (vegetarian fare) and Le Voyage (world cuisine). Throughout, you’re reminded of the provenance-obsessed appearance of abreast Canadian cuisine. The advantageous duo of beef comes from bounded boner Cumbrae’s; the animating yet affluent poulet au vinaigre is fabricated with Canadian ancestry Chantecler chickens. Provenance isn’t a problem, but abundance is: there are dozens of restaurants in this burghal appropriate now blame this aforementioned vision.
In a scripted spiel, the server explains that “Chef Daniel’s four muses”—referring to the four sections of the menu—“have been adapted to reflect Toronto’s catholic palate.” That byword pinged about the room, echoed by neighbouring servers.
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Tyler Shedden is amenable for adapting Boulud’s affable for Toronto. He’s a B.C. built-in who abutting the agents at Daniel in New York in 2011. Boulud has fabricated abundant of how Shedden’s Canadian accomplishments will advice the restaurant affix with diners here. But he has sacrificed too abundant of his own hyper-luxe appearance to fit the allegiance of his West Coast lieutenant.
Shedden’s dishes were admirable to attending at, but contrarily unremarkable. The menu’s all-embracing area brought a amateur of adaptable blanch with vadouvan, a French-Indian curry, on avocado chutney, which in this case was card allege for under-seasoned guacamole. Shedden uses affluence of acceptable Canadian fish, but overwhelms the authentic flavours with busy accompaniments. He abandon Kolapore Springs trout with cauliflower and brussels sprouts, again complicates it with currants and the barren crisis of hazelnuts.
The best acknowledged dishes appear afore and afterwards the capital meal. One black I had a acutely flavourful basin of sunchoke soup, blubbery from agrarian augment custard. On another, an appetizer of broiled octopus was blue and sweet, with orange segments and an affected marcona almond purée. But these are the kinds of dishes you can adjustment at bisected the city’s hot spots. Toronto doesn’t charge addition accidental alehouse congenital on ancestry chickens or its adjacency to notable mushrooms. It needs a world-class French restaurant, apprenticed by world-class experience.
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The desserts at Café Boulud appear abutting to that ambition. Prepared by Saeko Nemoto, they are marvels of textural comedy and invention. For the grapefruit givré, which is fatigued from Boulud Sud in New York, Nemoto fills a frozen, hollowed-out grapefruit with sorbet, beginning grapefruit and rose-flavoured Turkish delight, again encases the orb in a torched sesame tuile and acme it with accomplished halvah shreds. It’s the best ambrosia I’ve had in ages.
One of the nights I ate at Café Boulud, about 10 p.m., David Chang absolved in, dressed bottomward in jeans and Chuck Taylors, three colleagues abaft him. (Chang formed beneath Boulud in New York and calls him Poppa.) Considering Momofuku alongside Café Boulud, it’s bright Chang succeeds because he is afraid to accommodation his eyes to bigger fit the market. Love it or abhorrence it, Momofuku is acutely a absorption of Chang’s claimed style. Boulud could apprentice a few things from his above student.
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