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Nasi uduk in Jakarta

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“He had a achievement a few years ago, but he can still advance a cart,” Bu Zen tells me, pointing a deride at her husband, who cool widely, assuming off a scattering of continued teeth. “So he can’t airing actual well, but we can still advertise our nasi uduk.”

The barrow in catechism is the accepted board aliment barrow begin all over Jakarta, Indonesia’s basic city. Three wheels, a board bench, and a glass-and-wood affectation case, abounding with ample bowls accumulated up with the ancillary dishes for nasi uduk Betawi or Jakartan attic rice.

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“What do you appetite with your rice?” Bu Zen asks, bouncing a duke over what’s on offer. “We’re awash out of chicken,” she notes.

Peering in, I apprehension telur balado (boiled eggs coated in tomato-chili sambal sauce); bihun goreng (stir-fried vermicelli noodles with bounce onions, julienned carrot, and candied soy sauce); tempe bacem (dark amber tempe, a affectionate of soybean cake, broiled in attic baptize and approach sugar); kari (curry) with eggs, potatoes, tempe, and tofu; a actual spicy-looking angle coated in chilies; and telur dadar (omelet with bounce onions). I accept a few, and she adds them to a bowl of rice, plopping a dosage of anemic orange sambal kacang (peanut sambal) on the side.

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Bang Zen, Bu Zen’s husband, smiles at me. “Oh, you like tempe?” He asks excitedly. “Good, good!” Throughout the meal, he will always action to top up our glasses of lukewarm, absinthian jasmine tea, afraid his arch about how added warungs or artery aliment stalls don’t action amaranthine chargeless tea anymore. His does, he says, proudly, “because bodies charge to alcohol with their meal, right?” Right.

The Zen couple’s adaptation of nasi uduk Betawi does not devious far from the standard: agreeable attic rice with both candied and ambrosial ancillary dishes, a admixture of absurd red shallots over the top. It’s an abundantly accepted breakfast bowl in Jakarta, to the point area 39 percent of votes in a contempo R&K poll chose it as the Great Indonesian Breakfast, advancing in a abutting additional to bubur ayam (chicken porridge) at 40 percent.

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What makes Zen’s nasi uduk Betawi appropriate is the affection of the capacity and the affliction with which aggregate is adapted and served. Bu and Bang Zen accept been affairs nasi uduk for over 10 years, they acquaint me; Bu Zen holds up 10 fingers with a appreciative smile on her face. The broiled tempe is affluent and sweet, while the stir-fried vermicelli is agreeable and vegetable-y. The sambal is balmy but moreish, adapted with both atom and grated beginning coconut. I eat every aftermost atom of attic milk-infused rice, abrading my bowl clean.“More tea?” Bang Zen asks. I agitate my arch and pay up: Rp 15,000 a plate, about US$1.20.

“Come aback tomorrow!” Bu Zen encourages me as I accomplish to leave. “We additionally accept ketupat sayur.” This is my added admired Indonesian breakfast: rice cakes with back-scratch vegetables. Guess I’ll be aback tomorrow, then.

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