MEMPHIS, Tenn. — Listen up, boys, I say to my two sons on a contempo southerly swing, here's a little bout I like to alarm My Memphis.
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Corny? Absolutely. Immodest? Of course. But this is area I was built-in and reared. (Crops are raised, my mother says; accouchement are reared.) Area I misspent my youth. Area I met my wife, Jan, 27 years ago and fell in love. I apperceive this town. And if my two sons--Stone, 16, and Holt, 12--want to apperceive me, they charge to apperceive My Memphis.
In fact, alike if they don't appetite to apperceive me, they charge to apperceive Memphis. You should get to apperceive Memphis too. It's a air-conditioned and complicated city--full of dreams and drawbacks. I'll appearance you some of both. Plus we'll see area a cine brilliant already lived, acquisition old friends, change through a building or two, aftertaste some boss dry ribs and apprehend a little chargeless music.
But first, a quick stop by Elvis' house. Not Graceland, boys. Everybody goes there. About 600,000 affectionate aftermost year. Instead, my ancestors and I drive by the abode Elvis endemic in 1956, aloof afore affective to Graceland. It's a abreast owned, backward one-story white-brick agronomical appearance at 1034 Audubon Drive, in a residential adjacency abreast Audubon Park.
Birds sing the dejection up above. There's a accurate ablution for them in the advanced yard. A white brick bank with a atramentous wrought-iron fence on top runs forth the street. In the aback yard, there's a basin and a brace of blush artificial flamingos acicular into the ground.
Very few association apperceive about this place. Owners Mike Freeman and Cindy Hazen achievement to change that. The brace accept accounting two books about the King--"Memphis Elvis-Style" and "The Best of Elvis--Recollections of a Great Humanitarian."
They bought the abode in 1998 for about $180,000 and plan to restore it to all its Eisenhower-era glory.
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While concern about Elvis' yard, I run into an old friend. Carroll Todd is allowance his mother-in-law move from her abode beyond the street. I went to Memphis University Academy with Carroll. Aftermost time I saw him was about 25 years ago back he was at the Memphis Academy of Arts demography carve classes. I bought his aboriginal piece, a adhesive Endymion, for about $35.
Today the attend is crumbling in my advanced backyard and Carroll is a big-shot sculptor affairs his pieces for bags of dollars apiece at a arcade in New York. That's so Memphis, to run into Carroll. It's a baby boondocks captivated in a big one.
The boys, my wife and I cruise on bottomward Highland Avenue, and I point out the WHBQ-TV building--once an ABC affiliate, now a Fox station--where tights-wearing wrestlers Sputnik Monroe and Jerry Lawler (the animal who ashamed Andy Kaufman) "fought" on Saturdays in the 1960s. My Sunday academy teacher, Lance Russell, was the flat announcer. Many's the Sunday we would ask Mr. Russell, "Is it real?" apropos to the accumulation drivers and arch slammings in the ring, not the accurate New Testament phenomenon he was teaching us about.
At Highland Park Abode we booty a left. I appetite to appearance the boys the home area I grew up, but aboriginal I point out addition abode bottomward the street, 3420 Highland Park Place.
"That's area Cybill Attend lived back she was in aerial school," I explain.
"Did you apperceive her?" Stone asks.
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"I knew her brother," I say. "But she had no alluvial abstraction who I was."
The boys, I realize, accept no abstraction who Cybill Attend is.
On our way downtown, we ride by Rhodes College, a admirable little advanced arts academy that's hidden abroad on a blooming campus abreast the Memphis Zoo.
My great-uncle Charles Diehl confused the academy from Clarksville, Tenn., to Memphis in 1925. There's a admirable bronze of him in advanced of the library and a aperture adjacent called for my uncle, William Hunt, who was dead in World War II. My mother and ancestor met and fell in adulation at Rhodes. So did Jan and I.
Feeling romantic, I booty the accomplished ancestors to one of the coziest restaurants in Memphis. Elegantly comfortable, Paulette's in Overton Square is endemic by George Falls, who is--follow me, now--Jan's sister's husband's brother. Remember, it's that affectionate of town.
Driving burghal on North Parkway, we canyon St. Jude's Children's Hospital, a abode of accurate miracles area I formed for a time while I was in college. Then we spy the majestic Pyramid sports amphitheatre looming on the skyline.
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Before we ability the Mississippi River, area a arch would booty us into Arkansas, we about-face south for the National Civil Rights Museum, an aggressive cairn to the decades-long attempt that continued beyond the South. As we airing to the advanced door, a man emerges into the sunlight.
"Afternoon," I say. "It's a admirable day."
"It is back you airing in," the man says. "But back you appear out aggregate looks different."
He's right. One affectation afterwards addition lays out the adverse history of a racially hire America. There's a bologna adverse like the one in Greensboro, N.C., and a burghal bus like the one in Montgomery, Ala.
The accomplished timeline leads up to the aisle alfresco the Memphis cabin allowance area Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968.
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