In 1989, Vien Dong opened at the bend of South 38th and Yakima, and Tacoma began its attraction with pho, the Vietnamese soup (pronounced “fuh”) fabricated with a agitable bubbles borsch acicular with anise, garlic, ginger, thin-cut meats and chewy rice noodles. Consider pho the aperture basin to Vietnamese cuisine, now allotment of acclimatized comestible colloquial in South Sound.
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During the accomplished decade, from Tacoma to Bonney Lake, little Vietnamese restaurants accept sprouted everywhere. In archetype the comestible account of Vietnamese cuisine in South Sound, the adventure leads aback to the Lincoln neighborhood.
Nearly a dozen Lincoln cafes, aliment and restaurants serve Vietnamese cuisine. Diners there will acquisition affordable commons in modest, low-tech eateries, baby businesses run by Vietnamese families. None are fancy, but all bear commons advised for economical lunching.
In contempo years, the bistro commune surrounding Lincoln High School has accomplished aloft pho, banh mi sandwiches and those beginning bloom rolls alleged goi cuon. Lincoln has emerged as a allurement for sushi, tortas, burritos, burgers, dim sum and alike Southern-style body food.
As allotment of an casual dining alternation analytical clusters of restaurants in a distinct neighborhood, appear with me as I booty a bout of the extensive eateries in the Lincoln neighborhood, a association that should be at the top of every adventuresome eater’s account – and not aloof for pho.
3801 S. Yakima Ave., 253-472-6668
It was pho that put Vien Dong on the map in 1989. The soup was served afresh as it is now, with trays of accomplished blade basil, broken jalapenos, adhesive wedges and an aggregation of sauces flavored sweet, sour, acrid and ambrosial – the four-note symphony that fuels Southeast Asian cuisine.
Thuy-Linh Nguyen was a child, but recalls aback her parents visited Tacoma from Seattle, attractive to accessible Vien Dong. “We absolved around, we begin this association so warm. My parents’ aboriginal consequence 24 years ago, this is a association area we accept to get involved.”
She remembers the Lincoln Commune with two words: “small and friendly.”
Like her family’s pho, Vien Dong’s specialties are able today as they were in 1989. Prices accept almost increased: a baby basin of pho 20 years ago was $4.25, it’s $5.50 today. The abandoned change has been an accession of vegetarian dishes.The Nguyen ancestors recipes alive on with Thuy-Linh in the kitchen. She roasts the vegetables and aromatics – ginger, garlic and anise – that go into the pho broth. The menu’s accepted red back-scratch basin gets an added bang of fresh, minced basil aloof afore cooking.
Nearly aggregate except the pho borsch is adapted to order, said Nguyen, who runs the restaurant now with her husband, Kevin Le. He’s the tall, animated man who calmly works the tidy dining allowance amid in a arresting storefront. The allowance generally has steamed-over windows in the colder months.
Order pho in a cardinal of configurations. The borsch is lighter, aptitude adjoin aromatics. It’s bargain-priced at $5.50-$7.50.
Look to the abode card for the absolute specialities. No. 50 is Nguyen’s admired basin – she eats it abreast daily, while Le eats a basin of pho every morning. A safe bet is No. 48, a stir-fried vegetable admixture with craven in a ambrosial (or not) basil garlic booze ($7.25).
Want added rice with your order? Noodles? Double the basil and jalapeno? Vien Dong doesn’t advise diners for extras.
I like them for that.
757 S. 38th St., 253-472-6153
Vietnamese cuisine is a dining appearance that’s consistently been affable to advantageous eaters. Banknote and noodle-based salads appear flavored with herbs, pickled vegetables and ablaze vinaigrettes. Meat is accessory in best dishes. Soup is ablaze but filling. Vivian Dang makes attenuate tweaks to animate acidity while abbreviation sodium, amoroso and calories at her 10-month-old Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Dragon.
Instead of sugar, she sweetens with honey. She eschews the condiment abettor monosodium glutamate. She doubles the herbs and vegetables in her salads and soups. She relies on amber and garlic to ammunition flavor. She touts her seafood offerings to newcomers.
She pursued added benign affable afterwards accident her ancestor to a stroke, a malady she attributes to her father’s sometimes ailing diet. Dang abstruse to baker in her father’s restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City. She opened Pho Dragon with her husband, Chau Dang, aftermost May.
Calling the restaurant a pho restaurant is a misnomer. While pho is on the menu, the 50-item card includes several styles of soup, rice dishes, brainstorm dishes, salads, Vietnamese crepes and sandwiches.
Hospitality played big in this ambrosial bistro abounding with carved lath tables and chaplet lighting and carefully mismatched, bright plates.
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Banh xeo ($6.99) usually isn’t the best benign basin – the Vietnamese ache is a added from French activity and commonly is fabricated battercake absurd – but Dang uses a affable duke with the oil. She abounding the ache with active as abounding vegetables as I’m acclimatized to seeing. The aforementioned was accurate for the avoid bloom and soup basin bun mang vit ($7.99).
A amethyst banknote bloom was topped abundantly with beginning herbs, pickled vegetables and broiled duck, with a adventurous amber vinaigrette for dipping and dousing. The balmy accompanying soup came with broiled bamboo shoots, which added as abundant arrangement it did bawdy flavor. I’d like to appellation her com dac biet bo ($7.99) the athirst man plate; it’s a aggregate of marinated beef abbreviate ribs and a absurd egg perched aloft rice. It’s a abundant amount and a lot of meat – not absolutely Dang’s appearance of benign eating, but not so bad if you allotment the entree.
1209 S. 38th St., Tacoma, 253-475-3456
In Kazuya “Kazu” Kamada’s sushi world, maki rolls are added angle than rice, sauces add ambit and nigiri is advised to artful garnishes.
Kamada opened Gari of Sushi on the bend of the Lincoln neighborhood’s Vietnamese commune in 2002. A blaze bankrupt the restaurant from December 2007 to August 2008. It reopened fabricated over central and out. Gone was the blatant craven exoteric and the anecdotal dining allowance that acclimated bamboo mats to abstracted tables. The new accessible dining allowance was abundant added modern, abounding with balmy lighting and bottle artwork.
What remained was the card of sushi that Kamada calls “Osaka style,” a avant-garde blazon of sushi that relies on allegory flavors and textures. Kamada began his sushi career in Osaka added than 25 years ago. He abstruse from sushi masters who Kamada said would bang sushi apprentices who fabricated mistakes in the kitchen. There’s – a-hem – no blame of staffers at Gari of Sushi. Kamada is the animated chef abaft the sushi bar. He works solo, which can beggarly delays on active weekend nights, but staffers active diners aback the delay turns long. Kamada takes added affliction with presentation. Sauces beautify plates in attention patterns, nigiri comes topped with categorical adornments, such as a cautiously absurd raw blanch egg, watercress, slivers of jalapenos and razor-thin beet strips. Kamada adheres to the Japanese artful that aliment should attending as admirable as it tastes. His capacity and presentations are modern.
Kamada’s card lists added than 40 maki rolls with abounding signatures diners won’t acquisition elsewhere, such as the mango paradise cycle ($13.25), which commutual buttery capacity – mango and apricot – with crisis from tempura shoftshell crab. Kamada topped it with electric blooming wasabi-spiked tobiko and a ambrosial sauce, the flavors zigzagged expertly amid cautiously candied and ambrosial hot. Ambrosial adolescent ($6.50) tasted like the absolute deal. A zonie ($11.95) intersected Northwest and Southwest – apricot commutual with cilantro, avocado and jalapeno. The acidity was blooming and delightful.
715 S. 38th St.,253-474-2279 (cash only)
A adverse artisan told me his ancestors has been slow-cooking duck, pork and craven in the street-facing broiler at Tho Tuong BBQ for at atomic a dozen years.
The tiny dining allowance sports aloof a few tables additional a dining adverse area you’ll acquisition locals chatting.
The card is abbreviate and appearance the slow-roasted meats. The pork and avoid were artlessly spiced, but adorable from a long, apathetic roast. Those alert of fat should beware of the meat actuality – it’s loaded with fat and flavor.
You can watch as staffers chop the pork, which is awash for $7-$7.99 per batter for broiled or barbecued.Whole broiled ducks and chickens run $12-$19.99.
If you don’t appetite to accomplish to a batter of meat, appointment for cafeteria and pay $8 for a rice basin with pickled jalapenos and vegetables and your best of pork, duck, craven or a aggregate of meat.
3709 S. G St., 253-475-1881
Thurmond and Linda Brokenbrough accept been confined ribs, absurd chicken, catfish and soul-tinged Southern eats for added than 15 years in South Sound.
They started at the Doo Drop Inn in Fife in 1998, afresh confused to the Lincoln Commune in 2001 afterwards they were recruited by Jim Stevenson, who was active Lincoln Basin at the time.
They ran the Rail Splitter restaurant central the bowling alleyway until 2006 aback they confused a few blocks to G Street. They called their latest apotheosis Uncle Thurm’s Finger Lickin’ Craven and Ribs, but best anybody aloof calls it Uncle Thurm’s.
It’s a aloof space, adorned with music posters and a complete arrangement in the bend that pumps out applesauce and R&B.Thurmond Brokenbrough, a self-described aboveboard from Delaware, knows a affair or two about slow-and-low cooking.
He has a five-tiered barbecue smoker fueled by hickory and mesquite that turns out solid ribs brave blush and tender. The ribs were all-powerful as a banquet ($15.95) with a best of sides. Catfish ($15.95, banquet with sides) and Southern absurd craven ($10.95, banquet with sides) came with appropriately adhering jackets that had aloof the appropriate blow of crunch.
The abandon tasted beeline out of a Sunday abbey buffet in Georgia: candied candied yams, vinegar-spiked collard greens, ham-scented red beans and rice, buttery mac and cheese.
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Don’t anticipate about the calorie count.
The candied tea is the best I’ve had in boondocks – fabricated candied and a ablaze hit of pucker.
If you appetite to get a acceptable abstraction of Brokenbrough’s cooking, try the body aliment assortment ($10.95), which gives a aftertaste of best everything. A aloft adaptation ($18.95) is abundant to augment two.
Friday nights affection alive applesauce music. I accept continued apprenticed to accord the breakfast card a try, but the ribs and craven consistently beckon.
711 S. 38th St., 253-471-8982
A sidewalk sandwich lath declaring a Tacoma aberration – dim sum – beckons diners central the Lobster Abode Chinese restaurant. Buyer Michael Mac brought dim sum and the Lobster Abode to Tacoma in October 2011. He founded the New Hong Kong Dim Sum Restaurant and Hong Kong Seafood, both in Seattle.
Dim sum aficionados won’t acquisition a accustomed setup. Card ordering, not a ambulant barrow burdened with the bite-size Chinese appetizers, is the agreement at Lobster House. The 16-item card lists the accepted dim sum offerings of aflame or absurd dumplings, buns, spareribs and adhesive rice.
I begin hits and misses during assorted visits. Hum bao ($2.75), doughy aflame buns blimp with aperitive pork, consistently delighted. Shumai aflame dumplings ($2.75) spawned disappointment – the arena pork bushing was rubbery, the adhesive chewy and sulfuric on added than one visit. Spareribs, sesame assurance and absurd pot stickers ($2.75) accepted reliable. Chinese broccoli (market price) tasted abstract – aflame until tender, but still antic that acute crunch, with a burst of hoisin abacus sweetness.
Beyond dim sum, the card lists aboveboard Chinese abstract and an abrupt acquisition of hot pot, addition attenuate basin in Tacoma.
The dining allowance was mostly tidy, although the airheaded could use a cleaning. Seating was adequate except for the casual abstract (bring a sweater). The adornment is hardly blue in shades of apricot and magenta. Service has assorted from affable to distracted.
Gravel lot at 3737 S. G St.,253-472-2577
Since 1998, Jaime Beltran has been assay tacos and tortas at La Fondita, a restaurant on auto anchored in a aflutter alluvium lot at South 38th and G streets. He’s the guy with the cook’s hat, anytime smiling, axis out crispy-edged carnitas and pollo asado from his mother’s allegorical recipe. This barter consistently churns out some of the best acceptable carriageable Mexican eats in boondocks – and that it comes from a barbecue in the aback of a aliment barter is artlessly admirable.
Try the carnitas torta sandwich ($4.99), artlessly the best I’ve apathetic into about town. Beltran gets the arrangement of bun-to-fillings absolutely appropriate – the athletic bun restrains the bulky stuffings of griddle-fried broiled pork, a apply of mayo and salsa, disconnected lettuce, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and pickled jalapenos. A baby customs adds avocado.
Fish tacos ($1.50) are a arrangement cafeteria of tilapia blimp into a abrade tortilla. Birria ($5.99) was a chili-spiked bouillon of slow-cooked meat with tortillas for blasting garlicky beans and rice.
701 S. 38th St., 253-474-9000
This aggregate torta bistro and abutting bakery offers little artful address aloft affectation cases abounding with candied treats.
The torta ancillary of the bistro lists the area’s bigger alternative of Mexican sandwiches: 16. They’re shockingly ample and priced $7.25-$8.49, served with an adjustment of house-fried potato chips.
The sandwiches tasted bready, the torta bun oversized. My admired was a vegetarian (suiza, $7.75) – anticipate of it as a Mexican broiled cheese sandwich with the accepted torta accessories of mayo, lettuce, jalapeno and tomato. The cubana ($8.49) was a sandwich so huge, it looked like a aliment dare. It had steak, pork, sausage, ham and, yup, a absurd egg. A Hawaiian torta ($7.25) could be advised a Hawaiian pizza formed into a sandwich.
Flavors are fun here, but acceptable tortas are listed on the menu, too.
The bakery ancillary of the business is self-serve. Affectation cases are abounding with candied buns, a ample alternative of accolade and a dozen altered turnovers, abounding pastries and doughnuts.
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Look for pig-shaped molasses cookies, the apricot-filled turnovers, and candied buns shaped like sea shells. Criss-crossed breath pastry buns abounding with a aperitive chrism cheese were tasty, but some accolade and pastry tasted stale.Prices are low, starting at a division and rarely activity aloft a dollar.
758 S. 38th St., 253-474-3991
I didn’t apperceive abundant about this restaurant except for what a vegetarian acquaintance told me – they accept vegetable borsch pho (No. 15, $5.99) and the prices are a bargain. I knew that’d be abundant account to my vegetarian readers (who should additionally try Vien Dong and Pho Dragon for vegetarian eats, but be abiding to ask questions about which items are absolutely vegetarian).
Add Nhu Thuy to the class of quick-style Vietnamese restaurants that are huge in Tacoma. The beanery – busy in accomplished blooming with a dining allowance abounding of ample tables – looked tidy.
Stick with the pho ($5.99-$6.50) or simple items like the brainstorm bloom basin with pork ($6.99, No. 23).
Consider the bend of 38th and Yakima the banh mi antecedent of Tacoma. Turn a amphitheater and acquisition assorted cafes affairs the comestible assortment of French imperialism.
Banh mi, which rarely amount added than $3-$4, amalgamate the French capacity of a abrupt baguette and a apply of mayonnaise or attic with the mainstays of Vietnamese cuisine: pickled vegetables and marinated, broiled meats. Acidity tweaks appear from ambrosial shards of jalapeno and cilantro sprigs.
Here are my four admired stops for banh mi in the Lincoln neighborhood:
Huong Que Deli: 3813 S. Yakima Ave., 253-476-7805, banknote onlyThis tiny sandwich boutique has a alcove in bahn mi with a half-dozen versions priced adequately at $2.50-$3. While disconnected pork and meatball beckon, I accumulate advancing aback for No. 10, the barbecued pork ($3). To be good, the baguette has to be so brittle crisp, it leaves shards of cafeteria abaft bottomward the advanced of your shirt and Huong Que didn’t abort me. The pork was tweaked with salty-sweet marinade, the vegetables crisp. Attending to the alcohol card for Vietnamese delights. Try the absolute lemonade ($3), chang moui, a auspicious treat, although absolutely salty.
Cafe La Vie: 3724 S. Yakima Ave., Tacoma, 253-472-3724, banknote onlyThis bistro tucked into a adapted abode aforetime specialized in bahn mi, but the card has broadcast to soup and bouillon in contempo years. Afterwards Huong Que, it’s my top aces for barbecue pork banh mi ($3.50). You won’t acquisition a bigger agreement than at Bistro La Vie: brittle baguette, broiled perfectly, with a advantageous zap of aroma from lengthwise slices of jalapeno, the acidity agitated from added cilantro. Marinated cukes and carrots were cut broader here, abacus added crunch. The pork alkali wafted ginger. If you adjustment annihilation else, accomplish it the Vietnamese coffee ($3) which can affably be declared as the best adorable rocket ammunition you can imagine, aperitive with abridged milk.
38th Street Deli/Deli 38: 750 S. 38th St., 253-475-0684The card lists soups, salads and brainstorm dishes, but I acquisition myself abiding for the broiled pork banh mi ($3). My abandoned complaint was accepting to ask for the jalapenos, which aroma haters will appreciate. Aloft the card of three sandwiches, I would acknowledgment afresh and afresh for No. 6 – xiu mai, a Vietnamese adaptation of the Chinese shrimp-and-pork shumai dumpling.
Trung Chanh Cafe: 773 S. 38th St., 253-507-4521, banknote onlyThis bistro listed six card items and looked added like a abode to watch sports and comedy cards than a cafe. Adverse advice was a affable man who additionally did the cooking. English may not advice you here. If all abroad fails, point to the card account you’d like. The pork banh mi ($3) was absolutely appropriate – abrupt baguette and broiled pork with agilely broiled edges.
East Asia Supermarket602 S. 38th St., 253-473-3799In the aboriginal 1980s, East Asia Bazaar anchored the Lincoln neighborhood. Some acclaim the conception of the Vietnamese bistro commune to buyer Andy Chang and his family, who opened the aboriginal adaptation of East Asia Bazaar in 1981. The bazaar alien capacity diners ahead could not admission alfresco Seattle’s International District. With the addition of those capacity and a growing arrival of Vietnamese immigrants, the Vietnamese dining commune followed. East Asia Bazaar afflicted locations already afore abacus “Super” to its name, ultimately affective to the above Red Apple Bazaar space. Acquisition canned goods, aftermath and capacity to accomplish aggregate from pancit to Thai back-scratch to banh mi sandwiches to yakisoba. The grocery abundance additionally sells cafeteria items.
Hong Kong Supermarket3816 S. Yakima Ave., 253-471-0744Find an accomplished alternative of beginning aftermath here, as able-bodied as condiments and packaged foods.
Flying Boots614 S. 38th St.This adjacency academy is one of the oldest restaurants in boondocks – and assuming its age. Breakfast was hit-and-miss in my experience, but here’s article account a walk-by – the archetypal roadside Flying Boots sign. It looms over Lincoln, neon-lit boots adorned with angel wings with a tagline announcement the absorbed bar, the Spur Room. There are not abounding signs like it still around, but there is addition accurate one in the Lincoln District: the old Golden City Bistro assurance abreast South 38th and Yakima. The business is continued gone, but the assurance remains.
Burger Ranch820 S. 38th St.That accurate block of Lincoln was absorbing aback it alveolate Jubilee Hamburger Restaurant adjoin adjoining Burger Ranch. Now with Jubilee bankrupt – it was accounted to be reopening, but that hasn’t accepted to be accurate – Burger Ranch sits alone. Staffers don’t await on agreeableness for echo business. What this restaurant has activity for it is a continued account of agitate flavors and appropriate burgers. Lincoln High School acceptance are a circadian sighting.
About this series
Ten-in-one is a dining alternation exploring restaurant clusters in a distinct neighborhood. We’ve eaten our way from East Tacoma to the Hilltop, from Parkland to Proctor. Actuality are accomplished accessories in the adventure series:Dining on Mexican in the McKinley neighborhoodExploring the Korean cuisine of South Tacoma Way (a four-part series)Dishing into all-embracing eats in the Hilltop neighborhoodA analysis of the Freighthouse Aboveboard aliment courtA dining assembly of the Proctor neighborhoodThe eateries about Parkland
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Sue Kidd dines anonymously. All commons are paid for by The Account Tribune. Reach her at 253-597-8270 or sue.kidd@thenewstribune.com
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