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The amplitude of Peachtree Road that leads from Brookhaven to Chamblee is one I canyon through often. It takes me accomplished Old Brick Pit BBQ. The abode looks like a barn. It advertises Brunswick stew. I charge to get in there, I admonish myself every time I drive by.

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There wasn’t time to stop. Not that day. I sped north.

“Ruchi Bangladeshi Restaurant,” apprehend a pole assurance further bottomward the street. “Now open,” apprehend the banderole blind abreast the advanced door.

When did it about-face from Rose of India? Restaurants about-face over so frequently. I can’t accumulate up.

I pulled into the abandoned parking lot. The aperture was locked. It wasn’t absolutely lunchtime. I airtight a few photos and beatific them to a aide at The AJC. Could she dig about and see what she could find?

“Just talked to the owner,” she wrote aback later. “He’s 22 years old and is activity to academy abounding time to become a physician’s assistant, came to ATL back he was 5 from Bangladesh.”

Bangladeshi restaurants are uncommon. So are 22-year-old restaurateurs.

A few canicule later, Amit Shapta greeted me at the door. He wore an Atlanta United jersey. He admired soccer a lot, he said. Acclimated to comedy back he was a kid. Not now, though. Between finishing up his undergraduate studies as a analysis above at Kennesaw State University and aperture the restaurant, he was far too busy.

While Shapta has three employees, he appealing abundant handles the absolute advanced of the house. He runs water, takes orders, serves food, buses tables and rings up the register.

The 38-seat restaurant would be aperture in 30 minutes. At that point we’d accept no time for chit-chat, so I cut to the chase: What bedevilled him, at his adolescent age, to accessible a restaurant?

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“I’m acquisitive to pay off physician’s abettor school.”

Shapta will access the physician’s abettor affairs at Emory University in the abatement of 2019. As allotment of the admissions requirement, he’ll charge to log a assertive bulk of beforehand and absolute accommodating affliction hours, which he’ll alpha clocking aloft admission from KSU in December.

“At this age, you accept to anticipate three to bristles years in advance. If you don’t plan … ” He paused to actualization his abutting thought. “I capital to set myself on a path.”

Not alone is Shapta active a restaurant, but he additionally bought the building. With his own money.

I don’t apperceive abounding bodies of Shapta’s age with abundant bill to bang bottomward on a restaurant. I asked him area he got the funds.

“I’ve been alive back I was 15. I was consistently saving. I’ve consistently managed my money.”

After admission from Chamblee High Academy in 2013, Shapta attended Mercer University, but transferred to KSU back he accomplished he could get a high-quality apprenticeship there for beneath money. Actually, he’s on a abounding ride, so he will airing abroad with his amount debt-free.

He is the aboriginal being in his ancestors to go to college.

His accommodation to be a physician’s abettor isn’t afterwards absorption either. Initially, he capital to be a cardiothoracic surgeon, he told me, but afterwards talking with ancestors and friends, he accomplished that medical academy wasn’t the best avenue for the activity he envisioned: “A family, to alive comfortably, to be there while my kids abound up.”

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Shapta is industrious, hardworking, aspirational. That ability be in his blood.

He and his ancestors confused to Atlanta in 1999. That was afterwards a time of break from his father, Shajon Miah, who confused to London, abrogation Shapta and his mother, Julia Nahar, abaft in their built-in burghal of Sylhet in northeastern Bangladesh.

Why the move?

“To acquisition a bigger befalling for us,” Shapta replied.

His ancestor knew how to cook, so that’s what he did in London. Later, he confused to California and opened an Indian restaurant in Hollywood with a business partner.

Then Miah came to Atlanta. “He absitively this burghal was the absolute abode to achieve down,” Shapta said. So 5-year-old Shapta and his mother arranged their accoutrements and came to America.

Miah formed as a chef in a few Indian restaurants in greater Atlanta afore aperture two of his own: Moxsha Kitchen in Duluth and Subras Indian Grill in Marietta. The closing bankrupt beforehand this year.

What if Ruchi fails, I asked?

“It’s been accepted. I’ve done my research. The aboriginal two to three businesses are 95 percent failure. I went advanced because my dad has experience. He can be a coach and admonition me.”

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His father, Shapta said, is the being training cooks at Ruchi.

Indian mainstays — tikkas, pakoras, daals, aloos, tandoori-style craven and seafood, ambrosial biriyanis, collapsed breads — boss the Ruchi menu, but there are some Bengali specialties. As Shapta explained, the two are actual similar. But there are assertive capacity added accepted to Bangladeshi kitchens — such as acid alacrity oil acclimated to baker achaar, a appealing bowl of pickled fruits and vegetables. Listed as No. 36 on the Ruchi menu, it is chunky, tomatoey and about stewlike. It additionally makes for a bushing access back it gets brindled with chunks of protein — chicken, lamb, goat, tilapia, apricot or shrimp. (Go for goat.)

Shapta additionally considers Bangladeshi aliment spicier than its Indian neighbor. We chatted about the naga morich pepper, a small, wrinkly, thin-skinned pepper that holds big heat. He brought out a brace of beginning ones developed to orange and chicken hues, accurate to authority them by the stem, lest the oils blow his bark and bake it. The pepper makes an actualization in card account No. 38, artlessly alleged Naga Morich. The bowl is absolutely agnate to the achaar, but not one for those who can’t angle the heat.

“Naga is the Bangladeshi pepper. It’s the best ambrosial pepper you will anytime try,” he said proudly.

Pride in his ancestry is, in fact, why Shapta autonomous to accommodate Bangladeshi aliment on his card and to accord the abode a Bengali name, one that agency “tasteful.”

“I gotta represent my own country and my own food,” said Shapta, who became a aborigine U.S. aborigine at age 17. “I grew up bistro Bangladeshi food. I adulation a burger, wings, but I absent my mom’s aliment in college. I didn’t acknowledge this blazon of aliment until I was abroad from it.”

Besides relying on his dad’s years of acquaintance in the restaurant industry for his venture, Shapta broke his cousin, above administrator for Masti Indian Artery Eats in Decatur, for business advice. He batten to the operators of Rose of India to apprentice about their sales history. Takeout was a abundant allotment of income, so Shapta is alive to set up UberEats and added commitment services.

As for selecting 4847 Peachtree Road as the home for his restaurant, well, that was abundantly based on his own acquired knowledge. Back his ancestors aboriginal accustomed in Atlanta, they lived abreast Drew Valley Road in what is now the burghal of Brookhaven. “Brookhaven is already a abundant place. It’s sophisticated. And Chamblee is growing absolutely fast,” Shapta said.

Ruchi opened on Labor Day. “It’s been appealing acceptable for three weeks of business,” he said, adding, “It is so stressful. I assignment seven canicule a week, 12 hours a day. Keeping up with my schoolwork is alike added of a challenge.”

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Shapta turns 23 on Oct. 5. He seems to accept the apperception of a man alert his age. But back you’re the guy who runs baptize glasses, takes orders, serves food, buses tables and rings up the register, well, “it’s been accepted” that it’s not such a bad affair to accept adolescent legs.

Ruchi Bangladeshi Cuisine. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, noon-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Dinner: 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. daily. 4847 Peachtree Road, Chamblee. 678-691-9270, ruchiatlanta.com.

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