Before the aboriginal rye old-fashioned arrived, afore I snagged a blade from a wood-grilled artichoke and angled into the close bark of a fire-blackened fish, a drifter offered me a drumstick. The action was casual: She had aloof accomplished dinner. A blond-brown leg and a thigh remained afore her. I had aloof arrived. The abode mat afore me was bare.
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Farmstead, a truss-beamed barn of a restaurant abysmal in the Napa Basin of California, pulsed with aggressiveness and bonhomie on that Tuesday evening. Svelte tourists communed in butterscotch covering booths. Locals wandered the spruce- and fir-shaded campus that flanks the restaurant, boring the vegetable patch, sipping rosé, talking hot-tub aliment strategies. (I eavesdropped.) Off-the-clock winemakers table-hopped amidst milk-bottle-vased bouquets of poofy flowers. Considering the affection and the buzz, an action of chargeless aliment from a drifter didn’t assume exceptional; it seemed inevitable.
Here in St. Helena, area trellised vineyards nip at two-lane roadways, the Tuesday night Farmstead agenda consistently appearance absurd chicken. Adapted in lard, served family-style with advanced bowls of mashed potatoes and sawmill gravy, chef Stephen Barber’s crusted bird was aggressive by Michael Bauer, the long-tenured San Francisco Chronicle restaurant analyzer and kingmaker. Aback Barber abstruse that Bauer, a Kansas native, is a big fan of the absurd craven served by the Brookville Hotel in Abilene, he begged an allurement to assignment in its kitchen. Three canicule later, Barber alternate to California to flour-dredge and lard-fry craven as the Martin ancestors has done aback 1915. Judging by that drumstick, he abstruse his acquaint well.
photo: Eva Kolenko
Farmstead chefs Stephen Barber (left) and Kipp Ramsey by the barbecue pit.
That Brookville date proves a beyond point: Dishes that Southerners attention as birthrights are not absolute to our region. Forty-plus states abound corn, from which grits are ground. Barbecue is a autumn anniversary food, apprenticed to the accepted rhythms of acreage life. And absurd chicken, whether adapted in Mississippi or Kansas, is a farmer’s dish, built-in of backyard flocks and rural thrift.
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Born in Madisonville, Kentucky, Barber doesn’t comedy the sweet-tea card. He doesn’t cartage in stereotypes or date pageants. At a moment aback Southern cultural outputs, from music to appearance to food, are accorded new respect, his affable reminds diners that Southern dishes are defining American dishes. Aloof as Kentucky built-in Loretta Lynn’s “Coal Miner’s Daughter”—which I heard while blame into a ancestry pork chop with jalapeño grits and broccolini—is a defining American song.
photo: Eva Kolenko
Lunch account in Farmstead’s dining room.
On a contempo beat through Napa, I ate four commons at Farmstead in three days. Each time I met the affectionate of folk who advisedly allotment drumsticks. A waitress who slid me a bottle of cabernet franc promised, “If you don’t like it, I’ll alcohol it myself.” Aback the kitchen ran out of fava beans, Kipp Ramsey, who serves as sous chef and manages the ranch-to-kitchen operations, darted into the adjoining area to aces an apronful for our table. (Fried in a delicate batter, they showed up bristles account later, drizzled with a garlicky romesco sauce.)
Once I claimed Farmstead as my own, I abdicate aggravating to amount out which restaurant to try next. Instead of adventurous about the valley, acclimation appetizers to analysis the animation of chefs, I aimed to become a Farmstead regular. Intent on abiding and reconnecting, I succumbed to the rhythms of a well-run restaurant.
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photo: Eva Kolenko
Server Catlin Schneider at the alfresco bar.
Breakfast, served from a screen-windowed berth abutting door, begins with fresh-squeezed allotment abstract acicular with ginger. Lunch or banquet rewards a abysmal agenda survey, alpha with those artichokes. Roasted in a wood-burning oven, delivered with a ammo of egg-yolk-pebbled gribiche and a fire-blistered auto half, they aftertaste vegetal and bright, like a fantasy of what California sunshine promises. Biscuits, brindled with cheddar and accumulated with baldheaded ham, convalescent and cherrywood smoked on premises, advertence Barber’s home state, area ham-stuffed biscuits ability their apogee, and Virginia, area Barber advised the abating ability with the Tidewater ham adept Sam Edwards III.
A bank of cannellini beans, served alongside a brick-cooked chicken, proves a exciting admonition that, aback adapted boring and with care, legumes and onions are soulfully delicious. Scattered with bacon cubes and decrepit in pecan butter, begrimed fish, with buttery candied potatoes and angled collard greens, steers the anecdotal aback to the South. Barber’s adaptation owes afflatus to the backward chef Paul Prudhomme of Louisiana and relies on farm-raised trout from Passmore Ranch abreast Sacramento.
photo: Eva Kolenko
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Wood-grilled artichoke with booze gribiche and lemon.
I additionally alternate to aberrate the grounds. Farmstead is the centerpiece for Long Meadow Ranch, a more-than-two-thousand-acre agronomical ascendancy that sprawls beyond three counties. Tucked abaft a bank of foliage forth a traffic-clogged amplitude of St. Helena’s Main Street, the Farmstead admixture recalls a summer affected for acceptable eaters. A accoutrement boutique vends herb-roasted Napa almonds and wines fabricated from Long Meadow grapes. A adequate flatbed truck, anchored at an angle, frames the country-chic campus. Adirondack chairs face a blaze pit. Beneath aerial redwoods, the ambit pit consistently seems to be open. The alfresco bar, perched alongside the access to the restaurant, consistently seems to be crowded.
photo: Eva Kolenko
The amphitheater café beneath a bandbox tree.
Long Meadow Ranch is no bald accomplishments for Barber’s kitchen skills. Beef harvested from acreage beasts is the base for the burgers. More than bristles hundred varieties of amoebic fruits and vegetables abound here. Long Meadow’s olive groves, which date to the 1870s, are the oldest in the Napa Valley. If this has amorphous to complete like a burlesque of California life, in which accomplished bake-apple always hangs dangling from copse and free-range livestock endlessly bolt over blooming grasslands, you’re chargeless to snicker. I’ll be at the bar, sipping an old-fashioned, eyeing my neighbor’s drumstick, amusement in the joys of actuality at home, alike aback I ambit far from home.
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