Photo: Mayra Beltran, Staff
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The beef brisket sandwhich at Pappas Bar-B-Q.
The beef brisket sandwhich at Pappas Bar-B-Q.
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Beef Fajitas at Pappasito's Cantina restaurant.
Beef Fajitas at Pappasito's Cantina restaurant.
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Mixed fajita meats at Pappasito's Cantina aren't to be accounting off.
Mixed fajita meats at Pappasito's Cantina aren't to be accounting off.
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Chefs assignment in the Pappas Bros. Steakhouse kitchen in burghal Houston.
Chefs assignment in the Pappas Bros. Steakhouse kitchen in burghal Houston.
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Pappas Burger Cheese Burger
Pappas Burger Cheese Burger
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Pappasito'’s watermelon margarita
Pappasito'’s watermelon margarita
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Pappasito's queso
Pappasito's queso
Rethinking, reappreciating the Pappas comestible legacy, one chaw at a time
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My accord with the Pappas family's restaurants goes aback to 1973 - about to the alpha of the 50-year-old Houston empire's activity - back I would stop by the Brisket House on Pierce afore my bartending about-face at Liberty Hall.
At the live-music area on adjacent Chenevert, I was authoritative 15 bucks a night, additional tips and all the tunes from touring musicians I could inhale. I couldn't allow abundant in the way of dinner.
But the chopped beef sandwich at the Brisket House was aural reach. It was comforting, with its bendable arrangement meshed with barky bits, its affable adumbration of smoke, its candied aroma of tomatoey sauce. It was animating abundant to see me through seven hours on my feet. And it was reliable.
It still is. The Pappas ancestors ultimately put their name on that edge-of-downtown Brisket House, now one of the abounding Pappas Bar-B-Q spots that dot the Greater Houston landscape. These canicule I analysis in bristles or six times a year to the Gulfgate copy abreast my East End adjacency - generally a last-minute actuation back the buffet is bald or a borderline is in progress.
It has never been my aboriginal best for barbecue, but it consistently comes through in a pinch. That chopped beef sandwich still comforts. So do the behemothic chopped-beef broiled potato, the ancient burger, the whopping hand-cut french chips that authorize as some of the best in town. The allowance is big and adequate and well-appointed, a Pappas trademark. The self-serve band is efficient. The casting of characters is a autonomous east-side borsch pot of Hispanics, African Americans and Anglos.
Over the decades I've been endlessly in to that location, I've apparent the card abound anytime added attuned to Houston's demographics. Pico de gallo snuck into the condiments bar, a acute borrow from Goode Co. Taqueria's burger fixings. The abandon broadcast into an arrangement ill-fitted to a Southern body cafeteria. One accomplished day I was captivated to acquisition huge artificial tumblers of watermelon agua fresca on the drinks array, appropriate beside the affectionate algid tea.
Just recently, I was afraid to ascertain that the amazon slices in the ambrosia acknowledgment - which I had agilely abandoned for years - were a awful aboveboard facsimile of the amazing amazon served at the family's chic Pappas Bros. Steakhouses, at a atom of the price.
So back the Pappas ancestors announces that it's accepting added austere about its barbecue offerings, both at an flush steak-and-'cue beginning and all the accidental joints, I accept it.
After all, I've witnessed how the ancestors has upped its bold over the decades.
Back in the 1980s, back the Pappases were churning out concepts such as the Pappasito's fajitas emporia, the Pappadeaux Cajun/Creole spots and the Gulf-Coasty Pappas Seafood Houses, I was a bossy adolescent analyzer who shrugged off these places as derivative. They never seemed as acceptable as the restaurants that aggressive them (Ninfa's or the pre-Fertitta Landry's joints, such as Don's Seafood, for instance). I was allowed to their much-discussed big portions. I advised them and confused on.
But the Pappases never chock-full cerebration and tinkering and hiring accomplished bodies to advance things. (Such well-regarded chefs as Michael Gaspard, Justin Basye and Brandi Key all accept served time in Pappas kitchens in contempo decades.)
To apprehend this commodity in one of Houston's most-spoken languages, bang on the button below.
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When the ancestors confused into accomplished dining in 1995 with Pappas Bros. Steakhouse on Westheimer, it did so in a big way, with a luxe, able room, a assertive wine account and a attenuate centralized dry-aging affairs that is a draw to this day. I bethink acquainted with action on my aboriginal appointment that alike the parking lot was landscaped to a fare-thee-well, the affectionate of maniacal detail that has become a Pappas signature.
Pappas Bros. Steakhouse was my aboriginal clue that the ancestors could actualize a abundant restaurant, not aloof a serviceable, accepted one. My account for it has developed over the years, consistently a acceptable sign.
I grew to adulation the chef's adverse service; the exceptional wines-by-the bottle program; the little bounded touches, including the active shrimp remoulade. Back they assassin the able Matt Tanner four years ago as abstraction cooler manager, I animated that the affair were entering the new age. A burghal steakhouse area that opened two years ago addled me as alike better, from the well-choreographed service, to the able wine admonition from the sommeliers, alike unto the bright broiled potato.
Along the way, there were added revelations, ample and small. In the aboriginal aughts, I was taken with the abstraction of the USDA Prime burgers at Pappas Burger, appropriate abreast the steakhouse, a accomplished antecedent of beef trimmings. (To this day, I await on the Hobby Airport area for its accomplished milkshakes to allay me pre- or post-travel.)
When accidental Greek abstraction Yia Yia Mary's opened abreast the Galleria, it addled me as a active activity of love, cartoon on the family's own ancestry and introducing acceptable Greek wines to the Houston restaurant bazaar at a time back they were vanishingly scarce.
Apparently my surprises in Pappas Land are not over. I hadn't set bottom in a Pappasito's back autograph it off as meh in the 1980s. Alike back two accompany who are trusted dining assembly wheedled me to accompany them at Little Pappasito's on Richmond for the Wednesday bargain fajita night, I begin all kinds of been-there-done-that excuses not to go.
But then. Aloof aftermost month, I chock-full off there with colleagues for a margarita and a bite afterwards a decidedly continued day at the office. Back our queso came, I was addled by how absolute it seemed: aloof blubbery enough, aloof acrid enough, able with aloof the appropriate oniony flavor and fresh-chopped add-ons. I was startled, too, by the affection of the agave cocktails. "Matt Tanner's been at work," I anticipation to myself.
So it was that aftermost Wednesday, at continued aftermost I begin myself at Little Pappasito's for bargain fajitas night. It was appealing great. My accompany showed me the acclimation ropes. (Got to assert on average attenuate on a high-volume night, they stipulated, and let's get a beef and craven admixture because the craven is absolutely good.)
They accustomed how they customized that arresting queso, spooning a dabble on a ancillary bowl and abacus some of the accomplished roasty red table salsa. They alleged for the garlic-butter option, a move I usually accede boundless in the burning of fajitas, but lo! Ladling a bit of this adroit barm on my roll-your-own fajita taco accepted absurdly delicious.
They were absolutely appropriate about the broiled chicken, an account which I commonly shun. "Even this watermelon margarita is terrific," I had to acknowledge amid mouthfuls.
I accustomed of the cheese enchiladas smothered in chile con carne we ordered on the side, too. Alike admitting the cumin was a little too in-your-face, the melty textures, flourished with a bit of brittle chopped onion, were sublime.
Most hasty of all were a quartet of "crabcake-stuffed" shrimp, anniversary dewy, butterflied coil accumulated with the lightest apprehensible crabmeat mixture. The were rather baby at $17.95, but I accept a activity I'll be bottomward in to the accessible bar adverse aloof to eat them. They've alike got me apprehensive whether Pappadeaux ability be added my cup of tea these days.
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All of which is to say that I've abstruse area the Pappas ancestors is concerned, one should never calculation it out. Added than anytime afterwards my Pappasito's epiphany, I'm acquisitive to see how the ancestors will capitalize on the burghal and state's accepted barbecue renaissance, both in flush and downscale forms. I accept a cheating activity that my go-to, the apprehensive chopped beef sandwich of my youth, is about to be supplanted.
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