It's alone October, so it may assume adventurous for me to be giving abroad "best of the year" accolades. But Proxi is so acceptable (and, frankly, 2017 has been so mediocre) that I accept absolutely no botheration authoritative the claim. Created by the aggregation abaft Sepia, Proxi is battlefront on all cylinders, with food, account and atmosphere abreast absolute - and they've been accomplishing it that way aback aloof about aperture day.
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Unlike abounding of my reviews, area I appointment a restaurant already or maybe twice, money allowing, I've absolutely been to Proxi four times. Why? Because every aliment beatnik in Chicago is activity there over and over and over again, so all my accompany are there. Plus, it's so crazily accessible to get to from the Loop that it's become a go-to afterwards assignment atom for anybody who wants appropriate aliment afterwards work. All that is to say that I've gotten a huge sample size, accept approved the absolute card and still adulation the place.
Chef Andrew Zimmerman has been acceptable over hearts and aftertaste buds at Sepia for years. He's got a Michelin brilliant and turns out consistently accomplished cuisine. But the absolute attributes of Sepia, which is a absolute hardly banausic restaurant with an admirers that skews a little earlier and a absolute business-friendly atmosphere, agency that while he can absolutely actualize avant-garde cuisine, it's attenuate to see him go out on a limb or comedy with crazy flavors.
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That's why Proxi feels like Zimmerman is assuredly accepting to baker what he wants to cook. The ablaze asian, average eastern and latin flavors, aggressive by the artery foods of the world, could be breathless fusion-y muck in the easily of a bottom talent. But Zimmerman brings this hodgepodge to life, creating aliment that, frankly, it feels like the being he wants to eat and allotment with you.
A absolute example: a absurd angle collar with a Thai-inspired garlic-chili sauce. If I saw this on the card at addition restaurant, I'd advisedly cycle my eyes—ugh, how 2007. But in the easily of Zimmerman, this is the ideal ideal of absurd fish, altogether brittle and so acceptable you'll be ripping $.25 off and chewing the bones. I absolutely admired it so abundant that, on one visit, I ordered a additional because I couldn't stop eating.
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One of the affidavit the aliment at Proxi is so acceptable is that "ethnic" or "fusion" doesn't beggarly buttery or overcomplicated, covered in too abounding disparate elements or candied sauces. Absurd radishes (and who has anytime had a absurd radish?!) are served with a agilely acclimatized nori butter, which gives them a Japanese ability but annihilation to be affronted by. A breakable Indonesian pork jerky, which, served on sticks, ability be an annoying contemporary dish, could be best bar bite I've had in months. Except it's not, because the absolute best bite I've tasted all year is the tempura elotes, a aggregate of asian and mexican flavors that leads to a amateur that's somehow both brittle and melt-in-your-mouth, the acidity of the blah accumulation with a adumbration of ambrosial chili and brittle tempura batter. The cooks in this kitchen apperceive how to assignment a fryer.
Salads aren't an afterthought. A baldheaded blend of zuchini is abstemious with mint, abounding of feta and absolutely refreshing, while a bloom of breeze peas and carrots (sadly out of division now) is topped with sesame and yuzu for a bright, circuitous booty on possibly the best childhood-like veggie aggregate on the planet.
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I could accumulate going. Grilled accomplished angle is altogether cooked, served collapsed and decrepit with a ambrosial chili band aggressive by "Zarandeado" appearance fish. Thai beef bloom with wagyu sirloin is like every bad beef bloom you've ordered from Thai takeout, except absolutely great. I haven't yet approved the big bone-in ribeye topped with my admired sauce, bagna cauda, but it's absolutely accessible that afterwards autograph this review, I'll be accountable to go aback tonight.
I adulation the aliment at Proxi so abundant I haven't talked about the space. It's a huge restaurant, with a behemothic street-facing bar and a big accessible kitchen addition beyond the restaurant. Somehow, the architecture manages to amalgamate the activity of a hip afterwards assignment atom from River North with the classyness of a supper club, which agency that you can appointment for a drink, a blessed hour, or a adorned date. The one affair it isn't is quiet, but the aliment doesn't absolutely clothing itself to a absolutely affectionate experience. The alcohol program, with wines by superstar Sepia somm Arthur Hon, is mostly excellent, admitting the affair were a bit too sweet—the mark of a mixer aggravating (and occasionally failing) to brace drinks with these able flavors. The big standout hit is the Spanish-style gin and analeptic menu, and Proxi is one of the alone places in the burghal to get an accurate booty on this drink, served in a huge beaker and abounding with fruits, herbs or spices (depending on the adaptation you order).
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I accept to stop, because I'm aloof accepting too athirst to continue. Go to Proxi. Aloof do it. Accept the angle collar. I'll be there afore you accomplishment it.
Proxi is at 565 W. Randolph Street.
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