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I bought my abode in Hampden in 2000. Yep, my neighborhood’s gotten bigger and bigger every year. And, aback you attending at the restaurants, alike added so. I got into affable afterwards in life…in my mid-30s, Julia Child, Jacques Pepin, America’s Test Kitchen and Ina Garten all accomplished me how to cook. And again in my 40s, Hampden got new restaurant afterwards new restaurant. Aback I confused in, there was Holy Frijoles, Cafe Hon, Golden West and a few others. I still absence Mamie’s lobster night. Now? We accept The Aliment Market, Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, Arômes, Paulie Gee’s Pizza and the account goes on. And on. Saturated? Maybe, but the acceptable ones will stay. Absolutely possibly one of the best places to accessible in years? The Bluebird Cocktail Room.
First, let’s not alarm this a hipster bar. I’m so annoyed of that chat – it’s lazy. To me, it’s a bar run by two guys – Paul Benkert and Ben Poole, both above Woodberry Kitchen bar agents – who pay accurate absorption to things that amount to them, creating a specific affectionate of experience. And I like that. A lot.
Paul and Ben are a acceptable mix. Both are somewhat quiet aback you aboriginal accommodated them, then…they balmy up for sure. On our additional sit bottomward (the aboriginal one was at an bearding area in the neighborhood…) the bar was bankrupt and we talked a lot about what they capital to actualize actuality for themselves as owners, for their staff, guests. First, this bar has been a complete activity of love. They formed on it for about 18 months and Paul says, “there were actually some blessed accidents – like the apparent brick and aboriginal bottle and all of the accustomed ablaze – which helped to (unintentionally) accomplish the abode so beautiful. We were all about application what we had and actuality creative.” Paul’s ancestors is additionally circuitous in assorted aspects: his dad is the attorney, father-in-law is the accountant, his aunt helped them with the plants. It actually helps to assignment with bodies you trust. Also, they capital to actualize a abode area the advisers feel a faculty of ownership. Ben explains, “we both apperceive how adamantine the assignment is, we’ve been bar backs, bartenders, we’ve run active bars. You accept to amusement your agents able-bodied – they deserve it. I attending at addition like Lane Harlan of Clavel and WC Harlan. She has created a ability at her businesses that we all actually admire.” Also, the bar’s arcane affair is there, but it doesn’t hit you over the head, which I appreciate
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Another affair that makes The Bluebird a little different? It’s never overcrowded. If you access (mainly on weekend nights) at prime bar time you ability not get in appropriate away…there ability be a abbreviate wait. If there’s a continued delay and you accept a agglomeration of bodies in your group, they can argument you. They appetite the bodies who are already admiral to adore the experience, not feel crowded, not feel rushed. Also, if you’re sitting at a table, you go up to the bar and adjustment your drinks and aliment at a committed chain and they accompany it over to you. So far, I’ve alone sat at the bar, but lots of bodies accept told me they admired the accomplished chain thing. And aback the bar is packed, accepting bartenders whose sole focus is to blast out affair – vs demography orders, payments, etc – seems appealing smart. I like the abstraction of sitting at a association table or alike a two top and not activity like you accept bodies continuing at your table. It feels a little bit developed up.
The concrete card is a little book, which reflects the bar’s arcane affair – and is disconnected into four chapters. Affiliate one: simple, lighter, added auspicious drinks like the vodka-based Mrs. Dalloway. Affiliate two we’ll alarm crushers: a little added boozy, a little added complex. I admired the Hemingway Daiquiri and they actually accomplish a lot of the Pig Island, which is two kinds of rum, falernum, bacon syrup, pineapple abstract and it’s active with a allotment of bacon that’s been candied in pineapple syrup. My acquaintance got the Jack Rose – Calvados angel brandy, housemade grenadine, auto abstract with an angel garnish. For me, it was a little too sweet, but she admired it and ordered a second. Affiliate three is area you activate to wind down, sip a little. This is area you accept the Old Fashioned and the Handsome Devil. One that I accept not had in this affiliate is the Bijou and I adulation this allotment of the description so much: “We adopt the added adventurous estimation of the history of the Bijou equating the capacity of the alcohol to jewels: chunk for the gin, rubies for the vermouth and emeralds for the blooming Chartreuse.” Then, finally, in affiliate four we cycle into the after-dinner options including absinthe, etc. One decidedly memorable alcohol in this area is the Exploration #4, which has Angostura bitters as the abject spirit (instead of the accepted dashes added), which I love. Additional lime, abode grenadine, sugar, a little abundant chrism and an egg white. If you apperceive me, you apperceive I am a accoutrement for an egg white. This alcohol was a abundant way to end the night, which thankfully, circuitous walking home.
Details. Ice, for example. I’m accept with nerding out over ice. I adulation acquirements things from bartenders…like which drinks get which kinds of ice, why assertive capacity go together, how they actualize assorted components, area do they appear up with the names? To me, that’s the acceptable stuff. I’ve abstruse that one of the alone times I like ashamed ice is in a Mint Julep. And, in an Old Fashioned, I like a big hunk of ice. And, glassware is key. I’ve consistently admired The Brewer’s Art, for example, for how they serve altered beers in altered glasses. At home, I accept altered glassware for altered drinks, but I tend not to overthink it too much. However, aback I’m out, I like to apperceive that the association authoritative my alcohol pay absorption to the details. I go out a lot and I adulation aback I can acquaint that a bar is set up aloof appropriate and the bartender takes a lot of pride – in a acceptable way, not a affected way – in their work. One of my best admired (and maybe weird) things is aback the baptize is artlessly from the tap, but algid in a refrigerator. No ice. I know, it’s cool specific, but I adulation it. So, you can see – little things amount to me.
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The drinks ambit in amount from a $5 blessed hour cocktail or bottle of wine and $2 Natty Boh to a bottle with Nikka Coffey Japanese Whisky for $19. I can’t say that I would anytime adjustment that highball, as I’m not abiding my aficionado would actually acknowledge it – and I don’t accept that affectionate of budget. I accept a few accompany who will actually adulation that drink, but I’m actual blessed with the Old Fashioned with Old Grand-dad Bourbon, sugar, boilerplate and bitters. And a BIG hunk of ice. Gimme. So far, I’ve had about all of the drinks. I’ve been four times (twice afore they opened and alert as a guest) and I accept three favorites. The Old Fashioned, the Mint Julep and surprisingly, the Handsome Devil, which is fabricated with Barr Hill Tomcat (barrel aged) gin, wildflower honey, Amaro and activated charcoal. I’m a little over the activated charcoal chic already (kinda like avocado toast, I don’t abhorrence bistro it, I’m aloof annoyed of seeing it everywhere) but this alcohol is bland and accessible and well, I fell in love. And the jet atramentous cocktail is artlessly stunning, abnormally aback they add the huge bright apple of ice into it. And, Ben told me, “I anticipation we ability advertise a brace of these a night. But it’s been actually amazing to see that alcohol booty off.” Also, on my aftermost visit, our bartender, Dan, said it was his admired and I can actually see why. Also, I’m told that charcoal helps with hangovers, so conceivably it’s aloof a win-win.
Food options are mainly baby plates and I feel like that fits. They didn’t appetite the aliment to assume like an afterthought. They capital it to bout the akin of the cocktails. So, they assassin Chef Pedro Metamoros of Bethesda’s Butt & Crow. Pedro is already adjustment the card for what works best all-embracing – for the kitchen and for the guests. Paul adds, ” We feel like administration plates aloof fit us and our abstraction bigger than entrees. The vibe is not uptight, we appetite you to accept fun with your friends. We accept a growing accumulating of games, for example. We appetite you to hang. Turning tables over is not our end bold here.”
Ben joked, “after 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s a little bit nuts. (Starts animated and laughing.) It’s a club in here!” Paul says, “I feel bad authoritative bodies wait. We are in the business of authoritative bodies happy, so we try to accomplish the waits short. On weekends, though, you aloof never apperceive how active it’s gonna get.” The bar has about 20 seats and is staffed by 5-6 bartenders depending on the night. The agents has been hand-picked, mainly based on recommendations from industry friends. Ben said, “you know…you meet, you cobweb well, you adjudge to go for it. Our agents is actually well-rounded. We’ve assassin bodies from the adjacency and from some of our admired bars. Everyone is smart, accomplished and they appetite to accumulate learning. It’s appealing high-volume on the weekends at the account bar. On a Saturday night, we’ll serve 600 affair from the list, additional off-menu being like Negronis, Boulevardiers, Martinis, etc. That’s a lot of drinks. We accept abundant bartenders.”
With so abounding dining options, you really could just hit The Bluebird afore or afterwards dinner. But if you’re like me and actually adore administration lots of baby dishes, snacks, bites…you actually can eat banquet there. I admired the chicken lentil hummus, ‘ndjua spread, gin convalescent salmon, charcuterie (the terrine was absolutely nice) and smoked gouda arancini. I admired the ricotta blimp annihilate blossoms, but ambition they had a little heat. I am aflame to go aback and try a few added abundant dishes like the steak frites, cheeseburger and additionally the broiled calamari. Addition abreast us ordered the cheese bowl and it looked lovely. I’m additionally a accoutrement for a cheese plate.
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When I sat bottomward to allocution with Ben and Paul the additional time, I asked a lot of questions about ice. Mainly, HOW? How do you actualize the shapes, abundance them, apperceive how abundant to make…I mean, how can you possibly apperceive how abounding Old Fashioneds you’ll advertise on a Friday night? So, here’s about how it works: They alpha with 300lb blocks of ice, cut almost with a bandage saw. Then, they carve it into assorted shapes bare for their cocktails. Paul said, “I mean, we go through 4,000lbs of ice a ages and we run out! (Laughs.) Let’s say we ability charge ice for 30 or 40 Handsome Devils, 75 Old Fashioneds, 60 Pimms Cups (currently on blessed hour for $5) daily. We accept a atom bench area we can abundance it in freezers.” Ben said, “I anticipation about it like this: we either punch aback the ice affair or go all in. Clearly, we went all in.” Paul added, “I appealing abundant cut ice all day. Our accepted bearings is not sustainable. We’re attractive at means to accomplish to access abundance and accomplish it easier on ourselves. We’d additionally adulation to be able to accept a baby ice boutique on the bounds so that bodies could appear and buy some hand-carved ice to affect accompany at home. That could be fun. Additional we accept a lot of added account that we’ll cycle out as we get a little added time beneath our belt.” (I anticipate he said article about boozy ice cubes…)
The Bluebird Cocktail Room has alone been accessible back July, but so far, so good. And added to come, for abiding – abatement affair are aloof about the corner. For now, Ben and Paul, you accept created my new admired hang.
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Amy Langrehr is the blogger and Instagrammer abaft Charm City Cook.She writes about food, drink, affable and added in her hometown of Baltimore.
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