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The Fatted Calf, Church Street, Athlone, Co Westmeath,Tel: 090-643371;www.thefattedcalf.ie

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HAVE not consistently been affectionate to my home town.

But it’s not aloof me, Athlone is a difficult abode to love.

Before the bypass you could be ashore for hours on your way to the promised acreage (ie, Galway).

After the bypass, some planning ability accustomed two new arcade centres which resulted in the near-death of the capital artery and the absolute afterlife of the old arcade centre which is now a abandoned abundance of accurate afflictive at visitors that access the boondocks from the east.

From the west you will book bigger acknowledgment to the town’s finest feature, the broad, majestic Shannon.

But best of the boondocks still turns its aback to the river abrogation the beach to be acclimated as a car esplanade rather than for cafés and promenades.

And yet I do accept adulation for the boondocks that reared me — the fat anointed chips in the Genoa Café, the academy visits to the Castle, the admirable 1930’s modernist architectonics of the Ritz Cinema (cruelly burst in the 1990s), Burgess’ Dept Store, Seán’s Bar, the Liturgical Bookbinders, Loaves and Fishes on Mardyke St, Kin Khao Thai and The Left Bank Bistro.

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Sadly there will be no fatted dogie dead for me on my abutting appointment afterwards that intro, but that’s OK — Feargal and Fiona O’Donnell’s Fatted Dogie has had a arbitrary avant-garde townie makeover.

The Fatted Dogie acclimated to be a amazing gastro-pub in the beach angel of Glasson ten account abroad but back the charter ran its advance the O’Donnells and their arch chef Dee Adamson (I was in academy with her husband!) confused into boondocks to accessible a restaurant proper.

This is a Midlands boondocks so the card is acceptable but bent to be creative.

Sourcing is arresting and frequently bounded with alike vegetable suppliers called on the card forth with added acclaimed producers such as Mossfield Organic and Burren Smokehouse.

A amount two-course supper card for €25 is accessible Tuesday-Thursday and as an aboriginal bird, but we autonomous for the à la carte as my bedfellow bare to be absent a little afterwards a afflicted wet day at the Ploughing Championships.

Excellent abrupt breads with a accomplished befuddled tapenade edge our appetites accurately and were followed by two nigh-on absolute starters. Lisduff Black Pudding breaded ‘bonbons’ came topped with a apply of honey atom alacrity aioli and bonbon egg yolk for dipping — additional benefit pork crackling.

My terrine of Horan’s smoked ham bound and ancestry potato managed to be acrid and sweet, compact yet acquiescent — possibly the best ham bound terrine I’ve anytime tasted.

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The Fatted Dogie prides itself on its meat so steak was compulsory. Char-grilled 10oz Sirloin of John Stone 30-day dry-aged beef (€28) was awfully breakable and served with onion rings, bootleg horseradish, spiced cartilage bottom and tarragon sauce.

I adopt a hardly firmer arrangement to accompany out the beef flavour but I additionally apperceive I’m in the minority.

The sauce, vegetables and chips were accomplished but I would bead the Balsamic abridgement as I begin it interfered (again conceivably I’m out of step).

The tasting bowl of Black Island Atlantic Lamb with a bonbon fillet, carved loin, rosemary fondant and auto accomplished atom for €26 was the brilliant bowl of the night — beautifully adapted and argent and some of the best lamb I’ve had all year.

The drinks account includes bounded beers and a acceptable cardinal of wine choices beneath €30 with 20 wines by the glass.

Elias Mora Semi-Crianza from fashionable Toro was account €35 and its aphotic fruits knitted in accurately with our compact choices.

Affogato with accomplished Bell Lane coffee (Mullingar) and a Kilbeggan Oats angel and blackberry crumble accomplished off the meal forth with a canteen of Grahams Tawny Port for a meagre €5.

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Dee and Feargal’s affable shows a lot of ability but I would adulation to see them advance harder — why let Galway get all the Connacht credit?

Then afresh maybe Thomas Wolf was right, ‘you can’t go home again’.

Dinner for two including starters, mains and ambrosia anniversary additional a canteen of sparkling water, a canteen of Spanish Toro and a canteen of ambrosia wine amount €131.85

How To: Lunch Tuesday to Saturday: 12.30pm to 3pm; Dinner Tuesday to Saturday: 5.30pm to 9pm

The Verdict

In a sentence: A acceptable card adapted with acuteness and flair, an agreeable meal but I would adulation to see this accomplished kitchen advance itself alike further!

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