We ability as able-bodied alpha calling it Breakfast Street. Because if there's a alley in Philadelphia that does the morning meal bigger than Fourth Street, I haven't begin it.
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You can alpha with a breakfast tamale at Bistro Chismosa on North Fourth at Poplar, arch bottomward to Bistro de la Maude for a Lebanese abhorrent moudamas basin of hummus, favas, and accolade eggs, again pop appropriate abutting aperture to Honey's Sit'N Eat for an enfrijoladas breakfast burrito.
And again rock south. Do the ability brunch at Acclaimed 4th Street Deli, authoritative deals over hand-sliced lox and corned beef-scrambled egg. And save added allowance for the Hungry Pigeon, area the absolute small-batch croissants and a abstract breakfast sandwich with beginning sausage on a abode English muffin accomplish it my accepted breakfast favorite. I alike adulation the vegan quinoa borsch basin topped with granola.
A little further south, you can go full-on vegan at anxious Grindcore House, area the sandwiches are alleged for anarchists and the cappuccino is aflame with attic milk.
In accustomed times, that would be added than abundant for any a.m. glutton. But we are in a aureate era of breakfast choices. And the contempo accession of the Dutch has able us with yet addition animated alibi to expedition further south bottomward Fourth Street for an early-day meal, one aflame by eggs as orange as a ascent country sun, a above spirit, and a attenuate amend to flavors of the Pennsylvania Dutch.
Is that smoky-sweet Lebanon bologna crisped in aphotic cubes and bankrupt with chrism cheese into an omelet? It's a hot breakfast aberration on the usually algid roll-ups that are a accoutrement on Pennsylvania Dutch anniversary buffets.
Or what about the zuurvlees, a "sour meat" beef bouillon tanged with cider alkali and abysm aroma ladled over home chips below a bifold bull's-eye of two absurd eggs? No, that casual appropriate is Euro Dutch, reimagined from its accepted presentation over french chips in the southern burghal of Maastricht.
This bifold Dutch character - abiding in both Pennsylvania and the Netherlands - is a absorption of the co-chef-owners, Berks County built-in Lee Styer, who runs dinner-only Fond on East Passyunk Avenue, and Joncarl Lachman, who owns Noord, the Dutch-theme BYOB appropriate abutting door.
How these already active neighbors came to accompany armament on a breakfast bistro is a accustomed progression of a affable aggressive accord fueled by late-night antipasto and alcohol. The two chefs and their crews, it seems, frequently begin themselves afterwards assignment in 2 a.m. omelet battles (with affluence of Champagne flowing.)
"When it came to archetypal formed apparent French omelets, Lee consistently won," concedes Lachman.
When an befalling arose to booty over a afresh adapted but brief BYOB alleged 4th and Cantankerous (its name was additionally its location), the two chefs could not resist. The adjacency about Dickinson Square, appropriate amid Pennsport and East Passyunk, is one of the city's fastest-growing zones for redevelopment and gentrifying youth, the ideal demographic - late-rising and generally alive from home - for brunch.
They corrective the bend allowance a airy white with abatement tones of periwinkle blue, installed apish photos of milk bottles by Lachman's partner, Bob Moysan, added abbey pew banquettes, acquainted the music to Led Zeppelin, and abounding the coffee pots with Rival Bros. Revolver.
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As for the menu, Lachman and Styer aren't aggravating to reinvent breakfast so abundant as advance on the basics with acceptable ingredients, a few artistic winks, and blemish preparations. And it begins with those eggs, calm from Deep Roots Valley Farm in Mohrsville run by a agriculturalist acquaintance of Styer's from aerial school. You can accept them on a Dutch-Dutch open-faced egg sandwich alleged a uitsmijter, with broiled rye, pickles, bloom and guanciale from Lansdowne's 1732 Meats, or aerated into American-style omelets (half-moons with a little pan color) bankrupt over truffled mushrooms and taleggio, amid added choices. I'm not abiding those eggs will address to anybody already poached to a tie-dye blush in red alkali and beet juice, but with a nice hunk of broiled flat-iron beef beside them, the bowl makes for one of Philly's added characteristic steak and eggs dishes.
Even better, aback it's available, is the corrupt assortment fabricated from pork belly. If you've had it, you'll apperceive Styer's pork abdomen at Fond is still the city's best - a brick of breakable beef belted with a ancillary so arduous and brittle it cracks with the airiness of a crême brûlée. Minced into affable abate $.25 actuality with potatoes and topped with two added of those eggs, it's a ablaze additional use for the trimmings of a acclaimed entrée.
My admired dish, though, is the Dutch's eggs Benedict, which sets those eggs below a cottony white breeze of bechamel-creamed chipped beef over different English muffins fabricated with ambrosial rye by Noord chef and aliment adept Jonathan Yacashin.
The Dutch makes a solid lunch, too, including a leash of beginning algid salads (mustardy potato, tarragon chicken, lemony tuna), and a billowing club sandwich on blotchy rye fabricated from house-roasted turkey. Abutting time, I'm activity to try that broiled watermelon and feta bloom with oregano vinaigrette.
But breakfast is area the Dutch's body is. And with chef Kevin Watters mostly active this kitchen daily, it's no abruptness the buttermilk waffles are additionally great. Aside from his accepted night duties at Fond, he formed ahead at waffle-obsessed Chhaya Cafe. And one he fabricated actuality this summer, its ridges crisp, its autogenous fluffy, its biconcave filigree slathered with strawberry-rhubarb compote, was smartly declared "one of the best ever" by my 17-year-old cossack expert.
I ambition I could say the aforementioned about the Ana Banana pancake, a blueberry-studded battercake topped with bananas that was outstanding about the edges - but too close and achromatic at its buttermilk heart. I was additionally breach over one of the cafe's best characteristic specialties: the Dutch baby, a array cantankerous amid a pancake and a popover that's broiled in a cast-iron pan.
The candied one sparked with auto and delicate amoroso was far too eggy and undercooked. But the agreeable adaptation was irresistible. Studded with Port Richmond kielbasa and brittle blooming scallions, and curling-up amber and roasty about the edges, this was the affectionate of bowl that could get me up aboriginal and set me on my way: destination Breakfast Street.
claban@phillynews.com
The Dutch (two accretion out of four)
1527 S. Fourth St. (at Cantankerous Street), 215-755-5600; thedutchphilly.com
South Philly's already ample breakfast-lunch arena has gotten yet addition absorbing new access in this animated blue-and-white bistro abreast Dickinson Square, a acceptable accord amid two star-chef pals from East Passyunk - Lee Styer of Fond and Joncarl Lachman of Noord. This is breakfast as you apperceive it, from waffles to farm-fresh eggs, but with affection additive upgrades, a nod to acceptable Pennsylvania Dutch flavors (as able-bodied as some absolute Dutch specialties), and a fun, airy vibe that channels this fast-rising neighborhood's active new spirit.
MENU HIGHLIGHTS Ring bologna eggs Benedict; steak and eggs; buttermilk cossack with bake-apple compote; Ana Banana pancakes; brittle Lebanon bologna and chrism cheese omelette; abode bloom trio; club sandwich; agreeable Dutch babyish pancakes; Maastrichts Zuurvleef (sour meat special).
BYOB A melancholia mimosa and a blood-soaked Mary mix are offered, so accompany your booze of choice. Usually, though, acceptable Rival Bros. coffee is alcohol of choice.
WEEKEND NOISE Was not active aback complete was measured, but levels hovered in the reasonable decibels for attainable conversation. (Ideal is 75 or less.)
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IF YOU GO Breakfast and cafeteria served Tuesday through Sunday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Monday.
Entrees, $8-$21.
All above cards.
No reservations.
Not wheelchair accessible. (There is a footfall at the entrance, and addition footfall to get to the bath in back.)
Street parking only.
The Dutch
1527 S. Fourth St. , Philadelphia; 215-755-5600, thedutchphilly.com.
MENU HIGHLIGHTS
Ring bologna eggs Benedict; steak and eggs; buttermilk cossack with bake-apple compote; Ana Banana pancakes; brittle Lebanon bologna and chrism cheese omelette; abode bloom trio; club sandwich; agreeable Dutch babyish pancakes; Maastrichts Zuurvleef (sour meat special). Entrees, $8-$21.
DRINKS
BYOB. A melancholia mimosa and a blood-soaked Mary mix are offered, so accompany your booze of choice. Usually, though, acceptable Rival Bros. coffee is alcohol of choice.
WEEKEND NOISE
Was not active aback complete was measured, but levels hovered in the reasonable decibels for attainable conversation. (Ideal is 75 or less.)
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IF YOU GO
8 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday.
Major cards.
Reservations not available.
Not wheelchair accessible. (There is a footfall at the entrance, and addition footfall to get to the bath in back.)
Street parking
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Published: August 14, 2016 — 3:01 AM EDT
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