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By James F. Lee

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Special to The Washington Post

Johnstown, Pa. -- Aback Elias Unger looked out from his advanced balustrade on May 31, 1889, he was afraid by what he saw. His abode disregarded Pennsylvania's Basin Conemaugh, a 2-mile-long counterfeit anatomy of baptize formed by one of the world's better earthen dams. On that morning, the rain-swollen basin was alarmingly abutting to breaching the wall.

Gathering a assignment crew, Unger affected aimlessly to bank up the dam, but it was too late. By afternoon, the 72-foot bank had accustomed way, sending 20 actor bags of baptize surging bottomward the Little Conemaugh River Basin against Johnstown, and claiming the lives of 2,209 people.

On a contempo visit, I stood abreast Unger's porch, attractive out over a pastoral basin dotted with copse and the Little Conemaugh acclaim meandering through it. A railroad clue ran forth the basin floor. I could see the butt of the dam: two earthen abutments with a admonition 270-foot gap amidst them.

Getting there: Johnstown, 60 afar east of Pittsburgh, is about a 31/2-hour drive from Cleveland, east on the Ohio and Pennsylvania turnpikes to Exit 57 (Monroeville), again east on U.S. 22 and south on Pennsylvania 56.

Where to stay: Holiday Inn Johnstown-Downtown, at 250 Market St., with apartment from $140; Hampton Inn Johnstown, on U.S. 219 alfresco town, with accessible admission to the Johnstown Flood Building and the National Park Service memorial; apartment from $129.

Where to eat: Harrigan's Cafe and Wine Deck, 250 Market St. (in the Holiday Inn), specializes in Mediterranean food; banquet entrees from $19.

The Aback Aperture Cafe, 402 Chestnut St., offers alpha capacity and different flatbreads; banquet entrees from $13.

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What to do: Johnstown Flood Museum, 304 Washington St., is accessible 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. circadian April through December; 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday Jan. 2 through March 31. Admission: $8, $7 seniors, $6 ages 3-18.

Johnstown Flood National Memorial, 733 Basin Alley in South Fork; company centermost is accessible 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. circadian year-round, except for federal winter holidays. Grounds accessible aurora to dusk. Admission: $4, chargeless ages 15 and younger.

More information: jaha.org; visitjohnstownpa.com

Unger's acreage is now the armpit of the National Park Service's Johnstown Flood National Canonizing in South Fork, Pa., about 14 afar upriver from Johnstown. Unger's abode is the original, but it's not accessible to the public.

I've consistently been absorbed by the Johnstown Flood, so I'd appear to the canonizing to apprentice added about it. At the company center, I apprehend about its causes: A megastorm in which about 10 inches of rain fell in the 24 hours arch up to the tragedy, causing the long-neglected earthen dam captivation aback the basin amnion to accord way.

Photographs appearance bags of debris, a huge timberline rammed through the advanced aperture of a house, bales cars tossed about. A affectation case shows Victorian aching garb. The focal point is a affectation cogent the adventure of Victor Heiser, a 16-year-old who survived the flood. A 92-year-old Heiser's articulation plays over speakers, while a archetypal of him as a boy adhering to his barn roof hangs from the ceiling.

Park Ranger Doug Bosley explained that the basin was the armpit of the South Fork Fishing and Hunting Club, an absolute clandestine affiliation whose associates included the brand of Andrew Carnegie and Andrew Mellon. The affluent and able of Pittsburgh congenital abundant "cottages" on the shores of the lake, some of which abide today, authoritative it their clandestine summer retreat for boating, fishing and picnicking. Club associates allegedly weren't absorbed in advancement the dam and absolutely bargain it so that carriages could cantankerous the abutment. The bodies afterwards would pay for the pleasures of the rich.

The aisle of abolition now leads to a museum

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When the dam was breached, according to Bosley, "the baptize emptied out in about 45 minutes." And in that aperture a bank of baptize and acquisition bits swept aggregate in its aisle -- timberline limbs, bales cars, houses and animal bodies. So annihilative was the force of the baptize that several towns in its aisle were leveled, and locomotives were tossed about like ablution toys.

Standing on the dam, attractive aback at what was already the basin bed, I acclimated my acuteness to ample in the little basin with added than 70 anxiety of water. As I approved to account the moment of the breach, I accomplished that this was aloof the alpha of the story; 400 anxiety lower and about 14 afar downstream, Johnstown was the end. I headed there to get a complete picture.

The Johnstown Flood Building on Washington Street is housed in the above Cambria County Library, congenital at the armpit of an beforehand library architecture that the flood destroyed. Andrew Carnegie donated the funds for the new library.

The massive French Gothic anatomy contains three floors of affectation cases, photographs and assets that chillingly characterize the flood and its aftermath. Flood charcoal accommodate a chair, a pitcher, keys, a trunk, a brace of binoculars: the accustomed items of activity that were swept abroad in 10 abominable minutes. One photograph shows a addled ancestors on the ancillary of the road, addition endless of coffins, some heartbreakingly tiny. There's alike a canteen absolute floodwater.

According to advance adviser Richard Hambright, Johnstown's flood was the second-greatest accustomed adversity in the country's history in agreement of accident of life, the better actuality the Galveston Hurricane of 1900. Hambright, a retired schoolteacher, led a accumulation of us to a fiber-optic three-dimensional archetypal of the flood's path, alms a bird's-eye appearance of the mural and the settlements forth the Little Conemaugh as they existed on that day.

At a arresting from Hambright, the affectation case lit up and the arrangement of the flood started. The baptize in the lake, represented by dejected light, started to "move," spilling out into the Little Conemaugh River. We stared absorbed as the ablaze catholic downstream. Ancillary panels call what's happening, and the complete of rain, hasty water, telegraph warnings, alternation whistles and people's screams complete the experience.

Escaping the baptize to die in the fire

Hambright told us that the affliction allotment of the adversity was the blaze that bankrupt out at the Stone Bridge in Johnstown aback a kerosene tanker bent blaze amidst the piled-up debris, accoutrement hapless flood survivors. "Eighty bodies trapped in acid wire and bits austere to death," Hambright said. "The blaze austere for three days."

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An accomplished blur apparent alternate at the building explains the flood's adventure in ample detail. It relates so abounding ancillary stories: a alternation architect antagonism his agent backward, alternation blare blaring, to acquaint the bodies of the abutting torrent; a alternation dabbling on the balustrade as cartage watch the beachcomber abutting -- some jumped to assurance and clambered up the hillsides, while those who remained on lath drowned; and the abhorrent ablaze deaths at the Stone Bridge.

Rebuilding afterwards the flood was one of the abundant triumphs to appear out of the Johnstown disaster. Clara Barton and the American Red Cantankerous accustomed and helped the survivors for bristles months. Donations caked in from about the country.

The Pittsburgh Relief Commission purchased billet apartment to apartment abandoned survivors. About 400 "Oklahoma houses," so called because they were congenital for homesteaders headed to the just-opened Oklahoma Territory, were beatific to Johnstown as acting shelters. A actual archetype sits abutting aperture to the museum; you can attending through a bottle allotment at the four-square anatomy with its simple domiciliary furnishings. Think of it as an aboriginal FEMA trailer.

"They were emergency apartment not ill-fitted to Johnstown winters," said Richard Burkert, admiral and arch controlling of the Johnstown Area Heritage Association. "People would break in them a year or two until they got aback on their feet."

It would booty years for the once-thriving animate boondocks of 30,000 to get aback on its feet.

Before abrogation town, I took a walking bout afterward a JAHA map that took me to the United Methodist Abbey on Franklin Street. It was one of the few barrio in Johnstown to survive the flood. Although it was acutely damaged, this athletic anatomy withstood the acerbity of the angry Little Conemaugh River, in aftereffect departing the amnion and careful several barrio abaft it from the annihilative wave.

Looking at the abbey in the acquisition twilight, I had a adamantine time apperception that during the flood, the baptize area I stood would accept been added than bristles times added than my height, and that annihilation could survive it.

But the abbey is still there -- and so is Johnstown.

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