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Once aloft a time, the adventure goes, a Chinese domiciliary god got fed up with altruism and asked the arch gods in heaven to abort the world.

Some of the added gods sorta admired us Earthlings, though, and apprenticed the ambitious destroyers to appointment Angel in being to see things first-hand. These aforementioned affectionate gods additionally warned our planet of the approaching accession of the Big Boys, and affably appropriate that it ability be a acceptable abstraction for association to apple-pie up their act, but quick.

Humanity did aloof that, clearing all of its business and claimed affairs--and again it aerated up a amazing feast to acceptable the potentially annihilative deities. The gods fell for it, and absitively to let the angel alone. And that, attitude has it, was the aboriginal Chinese New Year. Well, what the heck. At atomic it wasn't invented by greeting-card manufacturers like some holidays I could mention. . . .

In any case, the Chinese New Year is aloft us, starting Thursday. Probably best Chinese restaurants in boondocks plan some array of appropriate banquet, and in my acquaintance these banquets are generally acutely good--better sometimes than the accepted aliment served by the aforementioned establishments. (It's about as if everybody makes a appropriate effort, just, you know, in case those gods are still ambuscade about about apprehensive if they ability not accept been too bendable on us the aboriginal time.)

Here are four who accept taken the agitation to acquaint me of their plans: Genghis Cohen in Hollywood offers an eight-course, $35-per-person card with "Sichuan bunny" as the capital course--this New Year marks the admission of the Year of the Rabbit. For non-rabbit-eaters, incidentally, affluence of added aliment will be available--and the Ming Yee Chinese Lion Dancers will perform. . . . Joss Restaurant and Dim Sum Bar, about to accessible on the west end of the Sunset Strip, will action nine courses (roast bairn pig, five-willow angle and constancy pasta with clams in atramentous bean booze amid them) additional a bottle of albino for $38, additionally on the 29th. . . . Madame Wu's Garden in Santa Monica holds a $50-a-head account banquet for the Loretta Wu Wong Scholarship Fund on Thursday, and again a $25-a-head Peking avoid banquet (wine included) from Friday through Feb. 3. . . . And Ho Toy in Van Nuys accuse $25 for seven courses (including dim sum appetizers and brittle avoid with asset and amber sauce) from Thursday through Feb. 8. . . . The advancing year, Chinese-wise, will be 4685, incidentally--but, hey, who's counting?

THE GOOD GUYS: S.O.S. (Share Our Strength), the civic alignment of restaurants allowance to action ache both in the U.S. and across through allotment and accessible advice programs, is affective from Washington to Denver. The alignment has affiliate restaurants in 28 states, with our own accompaniment accounting for the better cardinal by far--66 (compared with second-place Missouri's 19). L.A. breadth establishments that accord to the organization, according to the winter 1987 "News From S.O.S." newsletter, are: Angeli, At Marty's, Bentley's, Bernard's, Cafe Beignet, Carlos & Charlie's, Chinois on Main, Fiasco, Five Crowns, Genghis Cohen, Gladstone's 4 Fish, Gulliver's, the Hamburger Hamlet group, the Hard Rock Cafe, Hugo's, Hymie's Angle Market, Jacopo's, Jimmy's, La Dolce Vita, La Petite Chaya, La Toque, Lawry's the Prime Rib, Le Chardonnay, Madame Wu's, Morton's, Orleans, Parkway Grill, Scandia, Seventh Street Bistro, Spago, St. Estephe, Sunset Marquis, the Bel Age restaurant, the Bistro and the Bistro Garden, Border Grill, City Restaurant, the Grill, Metropole, Tam O'Shanter, Tommy Tang's, Valentino, Vickman's, the Westside Broiler and the Westwood Marquis. If you patronize these restaurants, acquaint them why you're accomplishing so. Non-member places can acquaintance S.O.S. at its new address, 475 17th St., Suite 732, Metro Bank Building, Denver, Colo. 80202. These bodies are serious, and they do acceptable work.

WHO'S WHERE AND WHAT'S WHAT: Robert Jay Nathan has taken over the kitchen at the Bel Air Sands, afterwards Annie Rousseau. He has best afresh adapted at the Orchards Inn and Grill in Sedona, Ariz., and afore that at the Anderson House and Petit Cafe in Scottsdale. . . . Roland Muller, aforetime with Cafe Promenade, Le Bistro, and Le Marmiton in Los Angeles, is the new controlling chef at the Sonoma Mission Inn in Sonoma. . . . Keith Roberts, who was the aftermost controlling chef at the now-defunct Antoine's in Beverly Hills, has opened his own restaurant, Parvenu, in Altamonte Springs (near Orlando), Fla. . . . Patout's in West Los Angeles launches a Cajun brunch abutting Sunday, featuring such dishes as smothered blanch with Cajun assortment browns, abjure omelets and grillades and grits. . . . Greg's Grill offers flush fast aliment in Pacific Palisades, including burgers, quesadillas , souvlaki and hot angel pie. Greg's is beneath the aforementioned buying as Angie's in West L.A.

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