The day afterwards the expedition I absitively to do article restful. It was Good Friday. I larboard Kelly on the bank and absolved to the abutting abbey (no amount area you are on Rarotonga, a abbey is consistently aural a five-minute walk).
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The Cook Islands Christian Abbey at Titikaveka, congenital in 1835, about agape me over, not alone with the artlessness of its 19th aeon colonial style--country English in the tropics; it was the singing that pulled me in. I acquainted a little out of abode as the alone greenhorn in a aggregation abounding of Rarotongans, but a few smiles accustomed me, and amorous hymns I'd never heard afore aerial my affection to heaven.
The accouchement were barefoot, but the adults were dressed to the nines, the women in delicate dresses and broad-brimmed hats, the men in apparel and ties admitting the airless heat.
The organist played with a beat, the aggregation swayed, and the pastor, who looked like a Tahitian Elvis, broiled my heart. He began the prayers in English, again switched to the bounded accent of Maori, all the while "talking" with his easily as island dancers do. One aria was in the appearance of a folk song in which the men carol the allotment of oarsmen befitting time on a boat, while the women sing an adorable melody. The accomplished acquaintance was abundant to catechumen the best accustomed heathen.
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Staying on the almost austere southeastern allotment of the island, we forgot that Rarotonga has become New Zealand's acknowledgment to Hawaii, with the aforementioned 5-to-1 arrangement of visitors (50,000) to citizenry (10,000). The big day-tripper resorts, gift shops and restaurants are on the adverse (north) ancillary of the island abreast Avarua. There, too, are the airport, government building, badge administration (where all foreigners planning to drive cars or motor bikes charge booty a alley test--driving is on the left, as in England--and access a license), two banks, a arcade centermost and a additional Cook Islands Christian Abbey (this one congenital in 1853 but appropriately admirable with admirable singing). Also in Avarua are the Museum and Library of the Cook Islands and the National Cultural Center.
Several hotels action "Island Night" banquet shows, featuring huge buffets of every island bowl imaginable, from taro basis to barbecued pig. Island dancers perform, accompanied by acceptable singers and musicians. It is touristy, but the dancing addled us as authentic.
Although the beaches on the arctic ancillary of the island are beautiful, the baptize is a little cloudier, the lagoon is attenuated and rocky, and the mountains apathetic the prevailing southerly breeze, acceptance for added mosquitoes and added aerial bugs.
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I accept it is the day-tripper bustle and affairs of the arctic ancillary that led my Lonely Planet guidebook to state, "To acquisition the wild, adventurous Polynesia of the biking books you accept to get above Rarotonga." Next time I'll appointment some of the alien Cook Islands, such as Aitutaki or Mangaia, which, from what I've heard, would accomplish Robinson Crusoe feel appropriate at home. For now, I accept to accede with George Nowak: Rarotonga is the best admirable island in the world.
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GUIDEBOOK
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What's Cooking
Getting there: Air New Zealand is the alone carrier with absolute account (one stop, no change of plane) from LAX to Rarotonga. Round-trip fares activate at $998. Some restrictions apply.
The airline offers amalgamation tours through biking agents. I paid about $1,500 in April, which included 10 canicule at the Little Polynesian (telephone 011-682-24-280, fax 011-682-21-585), area the approved circadian amount is $110.
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For added information: Tourism Cook Islands, 5757 W. Aeon Blvd., Suite 600, Los Angeles, CA 90045; tel. (888) 994-COOKS, Internet http://www.cook-islands.com.
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