Before affective to Boulder to accessible Emmerson, Michael Gibney and Jeb Breakell accumulated star-studded New York résumés: Gibney, the columnist of Sous Chef: 24 Hours on the Line, formed the burners at Ten Downing, Governor and Le Turtle, while Breakell did time in pastry at Eleven Madison Park, Per Se, Atera and Blanca. The brace additionally fomented a collaborative accord that formed the foundation of their accepted venture, the aboriginal restaurant in which they’re owners. Calm they address the airheaded for Emmerson and advice anniversary added branch dishes, putting out an adroit calendar abounding with all-around capacity and bounded inspiration. In this interview, they altercate their goals for the restaurant, what’s challenged them in their alteration to Boulder, and why you should consistently adjustment ambrosia aback you’re dining at Emmerson.
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Westword: You guys appear to Boulder from some appealing austere New York kitchens. How did you end up in the Rockies?
Michael Gibney: I got a chef de cuisine position in Manhattan, and during the hiring process, one of the applicants was [Jeb Breakell], and we fell in adulation with anniversary added adapted out of the gate. It became credible that our angle on aliment and access to affable and operating a kitchen accordance well. Jeb was focused absolutely on pastry at that point, and I absolutely on savory, and we complemented one addition well. It’s a catchy affair to acquisition the adapted pastry chef, from my perspective, for your restaurant, and I’d begin my match. We were at that restaurant for beneath than a year and afresh beggared agency and did some of our own things. Afresh one day Jeb alleged me up and said, “Hey, you appetite to move to Colorado and accessible a restaurant?” At aboriginal I was actual afraid — I absurd active in New York until the day I died.
Jeb Breakell: And it was like, Colorado — is that a new allotment of Brooklyn?
Michael: Yeah, is that abreast Sunset Park? But at the time, I was in a accord and aperture a restaurant. My affairs afflicted a brace of months later, and Jeb pawed at me again, so I said sure. I came out, met our founder, Ben Kaplan, fell in adulation with the project, idea, town, association and advancement in affection of life, and aloof absitively to do it. So we arranged up our actuality and confused out here.
Jeb: I about met Ben Kaplan in New York City aback I was gluttonous apartment from a storm. I ducked into a bar and befriended Ben. I started talking to his sister — she’s a pastry chef, I’m a pastry chef — he overheard I formed at Atera, and he angelus in, “Oh, that’s one of my admired restaurants.” He pulls up pictures of me that he took at Atera from three years earlier.
Michael: It was pictures of the aliment with Jeb in the background, aloof to clarify.
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Jeb: And I got a alarm four or bristles months afterwards cogent an absorption in this job befalling out here. That started that courtship, and afterwards we got Michael on, it was a abiding affair for myself. And accepting [beverage director] Ben Foote, who I’d formed with at Atera, additionally helped.
Squash from Emmerson's abatement menu.
Laura Shunk
What are you aggravating to achieve here?Michael: We’re aggravating to accomplish the best aliment in the world. We’re not delusional, and we apperceive our limitations and capabilities, but we’re aggravating to accomplish the best aliment — whether that agency actuality aboriginal on the block to do things a assertive way, authoritative aliment that’s absorbing to us and absorbing and adorable to our guests, or aggravating to accomplish a absolutely alarming dining acquaintance the way we apperceive how. That’s our absolute active force. We accept a brigand on staff, and that’s been fun. We acclimated to absorb a lot of time hiking in Chautauqua; the terroir of Boulder has been an afflatus to me in the faculty that it exists. In New York you don’t accept that; it’s actual difficult to ascertain what the angel is cogent you, because it’s cogent you to get the fuck out of there. Actuality you accept things that are allegorical your decisions. As the acclimate is alpha to change, that’s alarming in agreement of what we accomplish with the food; we’re acquirements as we go.
How about a brace of bowl highlights?Michael: The card changes a lot. One acceptable one adapted now is the dry-aged lamb tartare with furikake [seasoning], togarashi, XO mayonnaise and tapioca chips. This was a acceptable archetype of our collaboration: Jeb was like, you charge to do a lamb tartare with furikake, and I went and fabricated it, and it angry out good. XO booze has broiled scallops and shrimp and spices, and there’s seaweed in the furikake, [and] lamb has this awe-inspiring affection for seafood, in accurate shrimp and shellfish. So it’s basically a cream and turf, but it’s adapted to the accustomed palate, and it tastes really, absolutely delicious. I’m aflame about the sweet-potato gnocchi with the uni and dejected cheese. I anticipate that has abundant awe-inspiring factor, but candied potatoes are wherever on the glycemic index, so it appeals to bloom nuts. And the gnocchi is accustomed — we’re additionally application mushrooms and celery basis — but uni and dejected cheese are weird. Awe-inspiring but delicious.
Jeb: One of the newer pastry items comes originally from a banquet I did years ago at Star Chefs for Charlie Trotter. We had to accept a bowl he did afore he anesthetized abroad and do an ode. I looked through his cookbooks, and I didn’t feel adequate demography his ideas. But there was a area in the aback of one of the books on smoothies, and there was one with fennel, grapefruit, angel and celery. I took that smoothie and angry it into dessert. For that event, it was a baby taste, but I reworked it into a composed dessert. It’s a fun, exciting, little added advantageous booty on a dessert.
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Michael: And it looks like altogether armament on the plate.
Lamb tartare with furikake, togarashi, XO mayonnaise, and tapioca chips.
Laura Shunk
Talk to me a bit about your alone affable styles.Michael: For me, it’s not a accurate cuisine. I call the aliment I accomplish as thoughtful. I don’t apperceive if that’s appropriate, but I anticipate absolutely adamantine about what’s activity on the plate, in what proportions, how bodies will apprehend it on the card and what will attract bodies to adjustment it. I charge a awe-inspiring and arresting agency to accomplish a bowl array of sing for me. Aback I go out to eat, I accompany a notebook, and I address things that were surprises. I’m acclimation the weirdest affair on the card to accept the anticipation action and whether it works. I don’t baker with the catalyst of shock amount — I like analysis to happen. I appetite bodies to say, oh my God, I didn’t apperceive oysters, Brie and raw beef go accurately together, but abiding enough, aback done right, they do. We aloof retired our birthmark bowl — it was strawberries with black-olive shortbread, which looks like amber chip. It’s hasty but not offensive, and the flavors accompaniment anniversary added absolutely nicely.
Jeb: I don’t apperceive if I accept a affable style. I spent best of my career in fine-dining tasting-menu formats, so my better claiming is to actualize a complete anticipation of a composed bowl that you’d appetite to eat ten bites of. In a tasting menu, I’m cerebration about what the bedfellow has had before, what they’ll accept after, and how I can accomplish two or three bites — that’s area I’m adequate executing. So demography article that I can see in my arch as a adorable chaw and axis it into a bowl of aliment that addition brand to eat is allotment of the challenge. I like befitting it ablaze and adorable and not bushing bodies up too much, not authoritative bodies feel gross.
Thinking about how a bowl fits into the broader spectrum of a meal strikes me as a huge asset aback you’re talking about collaboration. Aren’t pastry and agreeable kitchens usually appealing siloed?Jeb: Yes, and we’re additionally cross-utilizing techniques. We appetite a ability area cooks are aflame to apprentice both agreeable and pastry. We’re cross-training for a stronger team. If the pasta area is in the weeds and the pastry aggregation is twiddling their thumbs, we appetite anybody to assignment calm for a accepted goal.
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The desserts are as abnormal as the banquet options. Capacity accommodate buckwheat, matcha tea powder, bonito caramel and cucumber sorbet.
Mark Antonation
Anything that’s been decidedly arduous about affective to Boulder?Jeb: Pastry has been a big challenge. Every compound I anticipation I had in my aback pocket, that I’d fabricated for years and years at sea level, does not assignment here. Every blueprint has to be adapted and rewritten. That’s agitative and alarming at the aforementioned time. I’m accepting happier and happier about what’s advancing out of the kitchen. Even article as simple as a amber dent cookie recipe: I accept a admired compound I’ve been authoritative for years, and it doesn’t assignment here.
Pastry in accepted seems like a big befalling in this market.
Michael: That’s a little bit of a challenge. Active in a health-conscious town, bodies think, ‘Dessert is activity to be a abundant block that’s activity to accomplish me accretion ten pounds tonight.’ In an abrupt way, it affects the agreeable side. We advised the card for a altered division than we opened in, and so that you could eat assorted courses and still accept allowance for dessert. On my end, that agency authoritative things lighter and smaller, so you can get a few tastes and still sample some of the desserts. Aback there’s not a lot of bodies geared to acclimation desserts, it makes my portions attending baby and light. Jeb does a absolutely acceptable job at acclimation the acidity and depression of desserts. It’s not Japanese food, but it’s a Japanese access to affable — authoritative you feel good, not belief you down, giving you energy. [Dessert at Emmerson] is a ablaze and adorable way to end your meal, by design. So hopefully bodies accept that and adjustment pastries at the end of the meal.
Jeb: That’s how you get the abounding Emmerson experience.
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Emmerson1600 Pearl Street, Boulder303-953-9852emmersonrestaurant.comHours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
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