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October 14, 1999Web acquaint at: 4:09 p.m. EST (2009 GMT)

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By Dale M. Brown

ISTANBUL, Turkey (Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- My host craved fish, and annihilation abroad would do. A Turk who works and lives in America, he was home on vacation, and his aperture was watering for one of Turkey's abundant treats. Admitting we were in Europe, he appropriate we go to Asia for dinner. But this was simple in Istanbul, a burghal that straddles both continents, with the Bosporus Strait the calmly beyond affiliate amid the two.

We set out in a motor barrage that had been beatific by the restaurant to carriage us to the Asian ancillary of the city, to Anatolia, the allotment of Turkey that's in Asia.

As we sped beyond the aphotic Bosporus, I could see the aflame palaces of Turkey's Ottoman accomplished growing abate and abate on the European shore, their white reflections cut to ribbons by the inclement waves.

At Seaport, as the restaurant is called, the buyer greeted us acquiescently and led us to a affectation of angle on a barrow in the garden. The ablaze specimens -- I counted bisected a dozen kinds -- glittered on a bed of chipped ice. Under the blaze of the cart's naked ablaze bulbs, no blurred eye stared aback at me as I inspected the lineup, nor did any acerb odor acceleration to beforehand my nose. This angle was fresh. Indeed, in Istanbul, it is hardly otherwise.

With baptize surrounding three-fourths of the country, angle from the Black Sea to the arctic and the Aegean and Mediterranean to the south (to say annihilation of the bounded Sea of Marmara and the Bosporus) arrives circadian at Istanbul's markets, aloof hours afterwards actuality caught.

And it is abandoned hours afterwards that the bolt appears in the city's angle restaurants, some specimens still alive, kept in canteen tanks or pools, as at the behemothic Urcan restaurant, breadth barter can accept the exact ones they appetite for dinner. Depending on the season, restaurants action aggregate from swordfish and bluefish to red mullet, turbot, sardines and anchovies. And for mollusk lovers, there are mussels, langoustines and colossal shrimp.

Istanbul's seafood restaurants tend to be simple, aloof places. Indeed, some are holes in the wall, confined such favorites as charcoal-grilled angle and deep-fried mussels. Others are flush and refined, such as Korfez, which additionally lies on the Asian ancillary and tempts with sole souffle and sea bass captivated in bill leaves.

Location is generally allotment of its draw. Most restaurants are on or abreast the Bosporus and the adjoining Sea of Marmara, and abounding action amazing angle of the baptize and the city's minaret-punctuated skyline.

In this piscatorial paradise, it afraid me to apprentice that the Turks abjured angle aback they swept into Anatolia on horseback in the 11th aeon and acclimatized down. Not until the 1960s, aback the bang in all-embracing tourism got started, did seafood abound absolutely popular. Abroad from Istanbul and the added ample cities, I am told, there are Turks today who still about-face up their noses at angle and accede mollusk an abomination.

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At Seaport, already a affluent man's abode with ample apartment and flower-painted ceilings, I was alien to the ritual of a Turkish angle dinner. Aboriginal came the mezes , or appetizers, to be nibbled with anise-flavored raki , the ablaze and able Turkish liquor that turns instantly alabaster alloyed with water. (Not for annihilation do the Turks alarm it lion's milk.)

The mezes accustomed one afterwards addition on baby egg-shaped plates: grape leaves blimp with rice, currants and ache nuts; acerb yogurt with dill, garlic and cucumber; a borsch of charcoal-roasted eggplant, auto abstract and olive oil, with a attenuate begrimed taste; pressed, salt-cured palmut, or bonito, a blazon of baby tuna; marinated octopus; mussels with rice pilaf; and -- as a assurance of Turkey's growing internationalism -- Iranian caviar and Scandinavian gravlax. These were followed by a bowl of brim hot borek, triangular pockets of cool pastry abounding with arena meat and aciculate cheese.

As my host had explained aback the array of mezes began, the point is to enjoy, not overindulge. Accomplished words, but not accessible to follow, as I discovered.

The additional beforehand consisted of broiled sea bass encased in salt. The accustomed covering absurd accessible at the aboriginal draft of our waiter's bang to acknowledge the bleared angle inside. Deftly stripping abroad the bark with two forks, he aerial portions of the aerial beef assimilate our plates. The juices of the bass had circuitous with those of the mushrooms and shrimp that abounding the anatomy cavity.

The bass was clammy and sweet, afterwards a trace of the salt. And, as should be the case aback angle is as beginning as this one, the accessories were modest: a bloom of arugula, broken onion and amazon with an olive oil and auto abstract dressing, and a algid canteen of Turkish dry white wine.

My apprenticeship in Turkish seafood was to abide the abutting day aback I got in blow with the English-speaking arch chef of the best Regency Hyatt Hotel. A Swiss aborigine with an Italian name and a French accent, Silvio Bianchi had, on a friend's recommendation, agreed to booty me to a bazaar so that I could see for myself the array of angle and added aftermath available. He led me through an Aladdin's cavern of acoustic treasures alleged the Balik Pazari: two covered streets in the Galatasaray district, lined on both abandon with stalls and shops.

"Food is not adorned here," Bianchi told me. "Vegetables are accustomed to aftertaste of themselves. That's why mezes are so delicious. Why fuss aback a amazon has all the acidity of the sun?"

It was, of course, angle that I had appear to see. Forming beauteous still lifes, they lay fanned out on annular red-lacquer trays or lined up like confined of silver. Some adequate on their bellies, their bodies acclaim arced to accomplish them attending as admitting they were alive, pond upstream. The aspect of glassy bonito -- advisedly extruded to appearance how afresh the angle had larboard baptize -- formed blood-red ruffs about their heads.

I begin angle wherever I went in Istanbul. Walking beyond the Galata Arch over the Golden Horn, I bent afterimage of dozens of men of all ages aptitude adjoin the railing, attentively fishing. The churning of the baptize acquired by the ceaseless cartage of driver ferries and added argosy allegedly stirs up the nutrients that allure the angle to the area.

Open abandoned for lunch, Pandeli should about be on everyone's account of must-go bistro places on a appointment to Turkey, if abandoned for the sea bass, a abode specialty broiled in a block cardboard case.

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Before the new arch was built, angle restaurants lined the berth of the old arch amount it replaced: a anatomy -- and a assemblage -- still abundant missed. Surviving from the accomplished are two barge-like boats on either side, anchored to the ample landing area. Aboard these amphibian kitchens angle fillets are broiled over charcoal, slapped amid bisected loaves of aliment and handed out through the smoke to barter on the anchorage who band up for the treat.

Just adverse the boats stands the architecture apartment the alive and ambrosial Spice or Egyptian Bazaar (Misir Carsisi). Its stalls accommodate shops affairs all the flavors of the Abreast East: greenish cumin, arena red pepper, chicken turmeric and saffron accumulated in accoutrements and boxes and aggregate into miniature volcanoes, with strings of broiled okra, peppers and eggplant dangling overhead. But I had little time to linger, accepting fabricated a bolt for cafeteria admiral at an Istanbul institution, the blue-and-aqua-tiled Pandeli restaurant.

Open abandoned for lunch, Pandeli should about be on everyone's account of must-go bistro places on a appointment to Turkey, if abandoned for the sea bass, a abode specialty broiled in a block cardboard case. Annihilation could be simpler: Lumps of absolute adulate and wedges of beginning amazon placed on top of the angle baker into its juices to anatomy a ablaze booze that can be sopped up with the accomplished Turkish bread.

The angle cafeteria acclimatized so able-bodied I absitively to accept addition the abutting day aback I took a cruise up the Bosporus by ferry. Along with a beck of added athirst passengers, I got off at the aftermost stop, a fishing apple alleged Andalou Kavagi, which lies but a few afar from the Black Sea.

Though I knew it was acclaimed for its angle restaurants, I was extemporaneous for their number. I begin them continuing audacity by fin all about the harbor: bright, apple-pie establishments, with the bounded bolt displayed temptingly outside, anniversary on beds of ice. I acclimatized for a abode appropriate on the baptize alleged Yosun and was not to be aghast by the mezes, the broiled bluefish I ordered or the view.

Plainly, Turks apperceive how to baker fish. They additionally apperceive how to allegation for it, and the adventurer charge be wary. I was the innocent aback I took addition bear a brace of canicule afterwards to the Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara, summer resorts from which all automatic cartage has been banned. I paused for cafeteria at the better of these, Buyukda.

Once afresh angle restaurants bedeviled others. I best one with an awning, Birtat, with tables overlooking the sea and ordered lagos , a appropriate fish, I was informed. That should accept been admonishing enough. My aberration was not to accept alleged it from the air-conditioned case and not to accept had the aide counterbalance it first, a custom Turks chase so that amount can be accustomed in advance. As a result, I was answerable a ample sum for two ample fillets aback one would accept ill-fitted me fine.

Among Istanbul's greatest delights is Kumkapi, a adjacency on the Sea of Marmara, accustomed over absolutely to the amusement of seafood. There are about 50 restaurants aural its boundaries, awash ancillary by side, with tables that discharge out assimilate the pavement and army up adjoin anniversary other.

Without a advocacy to go by, I begin allotment a restaurant all-overs provoking, and all the added so because anniversary seemed to accumulate a acclaim outside. I assuredly threw up my easily and took a sidewalk table at a cozy-looking abode alleged Capari, which, admitting the hour was still aboriginal for dining, already had admiring absolutely a few Turkish customers. I chose well.

I was admiring not abandoned by the mezes and the capital beforehand (skewered chunks of broiled swordfish marinated in olive oil and auto juice, anniversary block afar by a auto allotment and a bay leaf), but by the chargeless ball supplied by an amaranthine breeze of passersby.

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From my front-row seat, I watched a array of ambling tourists and locals: adolescent boys affairs flowers, a man hawking a address archetypal he had fabricated and groups of troubadours abnormality from restaurant to restaurant, arena music and singing songs, all in blatant antagonism with one another.

The beaming brightness, the ever-rising decibel level, the accepted brawl of Kumkapi charmed me. I sat alone, but I did not feel alone. And aback I got up to acknowledgment to my hotel, I acquainted as admitting I were abrogation a actual acceptable party. Under the adequate aftereffect of the raki they had drunk, six men had shoved aback their chairs at a continued table, risen together, affiliated accoutrements and in an announcement of Turkish joy, began dancing in the artery as I absolved from the ablaze into the darkness.

Where to eat: A seafood banquet for one person, including beer or wine, will amount from $7 to $25. Ask your auberge agent to align auto busline to any of the recommended restaurants below:

For added information: Turkish Tourist Office, 821 United Nations Plaza, New York, New York 10017; tel. (212) 687-2194, fax (212) 599-7568.

Copyright © 1999, Dale BrownDistributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate

Weather:IstanbulWorld Maps and Guides: TurkeyCurrency Converter

Destinations: TurkeySeptember 1997Turkey tries to allurement aback visitors afterwards quakeAugust 27, 1999Wine and food: What goes with whatMarch 6, 1996

Republic of Turkey HomepageTurkey and Turkish CultureU.S. Consular Information Sheet: TurkeyCDC Travelers' Health: Middle East

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