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There are added difficult challenges in activity than affairs high-end steaks to Chicagoans and Chicago visitors. Aloof in time for the alpha of anniversary season, I focus on three new entries (4 months old or less) in Chicago’s continuing steakhouse derby.
["419.04"]New 3 Marla House Design - Civil Engineers PK | 3 Marla House Design Double StoryAll three restaurants are sequels of a sort. Gibsons Italia is allotment of the badly acknowledged Gibsons Restaurant Group; Michael Jordan’s Restaurant is a west-suburban affinity to the Michael Jordan’s Steak House on Michigan Avenue. And Steak 48 is endemic by associates of the Mastro family, which created (but no best owns) the Mastro’s Steakhouse chain.
Adjacent to the 52-story River Point circuitous is a four-story architecture that’s about to become one of the best accepted dining destinations in town.
Gibsons is already one of the best acknowledged steakhouse concepts in the country. Gibsons Italia, which opened in backward October, will abandoned add to the luster. Elevator pitch: Gibsons Italia offers Gibsons steaks aggrandized with some austere and well-executed Italian dishes, served up in a stunning, abreast amplitude with august angle of the Chicago River and cityscape.
Did I acknowledgment the retractable-roof top akin and the alfresco dining areas on the lower levels?
In abutment of the “Italia” suffix, the restaurant offers a leash of crudo, accessible abandoned or in combination. Striped bass affected with bedrock salt, baron apricot abdomen with tiny bursts of feel lime, adolescent with ability crema — solid creations all. Mango and candied peppers advice about-face the crabmeat-avocado parfait into a dressier adaptation of a agnate bowl at added Gibsons locations.
Waiters burst about the alien pasta extruder that makes the four pasta dishes (all in amateur portions). I was added than agnostic of the raves, decidedly afterwards a good-but-not-wonderful spaghettini al pomodoro, but again I approved the blubbery and chewy caserecce noodles with concentrated asparagus, and ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses, and it was wonderful.
Italian entrees accommodate a superb dogie milanese, fabricated with bone-in, formed dogie chop, and a pork loin fiorentina, ambrosial with garlic and rosemary.
The steak alternative has been added with some grass-fed Australian beef (aged 75 days, we’re told) and A5 kobe beef from Japan’s Hyogo prefecture ($35 per ounce, minimum four).
The double-baked potato, blimp with cheese and covered in black-truffle shavings, is an calmly aggregate ancillary dish, admitting a $15 indulgence. Sauteed appearance was the ancillary bowl I ordered but did not get; ashamed by the gaffe, the restaurant beatific out two glasses of wine by apology.
The AWOL appearance aside, account is calmly professional. Waiters bout the dining allowance in ivory jackets and atramentous pants; apron-wearing administration bout the blush scheme.
Gibsons Italia
233 N. Canal St.
312-414-1100
www.gibsonsitalia.com
Tribune rating: Three stars
["1164"]Civil Experts: 3 Marla House | 3 Marla House Design Double StoryOpen: Cafeteria and banquet Monday to Saturday
Prices: Entrees $25-$48; steaks $31-$140
Noise: Conversation challenged
Other: Valet parking
Antonio Perez / Chicago Tribune
The crabcake at Michael Jordan's Restaurant in Oak Brook is accurate accurately by a Meyer-lemon coulis.
The crabcake at Michael Jordan's Restaurant in Oak Brook is accurate accurately by a Meyer-lemon coulis. (Antonio Perez / Chicago Tribune)
If you’re a fan of Michael Jordan’s Steak House on Michigan Avenue and alive about abutting to Oak Brook, acceptable news: Michael Jordan’s Restaurant, which fabricated its admission in mid-July, includes all the city aliment you’ve developed to love.
Even bigger news: You’ll allegedly absorb a little beneath on them.
Executive chef Craig Couper, who oversees both operations, has fabricated abiding that the best accepted items city are allotment of the burghal menu. The ultra-indulgent garlic ciabatta, drowning in blue-cheese fondue, is here, as is the maple-glazed bacon appetizer. The crabcake is a bit abate and beneath cher than the “colossal” crabcake city (and aloof $19, rather than $23), but it’s a accomplished crabcake, accurate accurately by a Meyer-lemon coulis.
There are beneath steaks on the west-suburban menu, but the prime Delmonico steak (the one with MJ’s claimed allowance of approval) with ginger-balsamic jus is available, as is the accomplished Kansas City band topped with smoked butter. Moreover, out west, anniversary steak is about $10 cheaper. True, the steaks are additionally a brace of ounces smaller, but I was absolutely beholden for less.
Appetizers do what they charge to do; the raw oysters are appropriately handled, and the Caesar bloom is respectable. There’s a baseball-size wagyu-style meatball, served in abundant affluent amazon booze to accomplish the admittance of broiled aliment a alive blow (in fact, I’d accept been blessed with the booze and acknowledgment alone). The shrimp calm puppies, served with a nice remoulade, were a highlight.
I didn’t advance abundant time on desserts, but the Nutella creme brulee, topped with chopped hazelnuts and served alongside a bruleed assistant bisected and a brace of shortbread cookies, was absolutely good.
The dining allowance is attractive, burst up visually so it doesn’t feel as if there are 150 added bodies in the room. The bar is ample and TV-filled, the balk floors allegedly were fabricated at atomic partially from absolute basketball attic and activity photos of His Airness abound. An absorbed coffee bar offers grab-and-go pastry, sandwich and bloom options at breakfast and lunch, and back balmy acclimate returns, the ample alfresco patio will be a above draw.
A few account issues got in the way of my visit. One aide caked wine a bit clumsily, dribbled some vino on my table and did annihilation about it. We ordered the adolescent poke, which came with pickled mango, watermelon radish and absurd onions, but it additionally came with a fistful of broken jalapenos (not mentioned on the menu), authoritative the blow too hot to handle. We alerted the waiter, who replaced the dish, but back the analysis arrived, we were still answerable for the poke.
["291"]3 Marla House Plans - Civil Engineers PK | 3 Marla House Design Double StoryCornerstone Restaurant Group is acute abundant to stick with a acceptable formula. But Oak Brook, which already has Gibsons, Mike Ditka’s, Perry’s Steakhouse & Grill and Wildfire in the Oakbrook Center vicinity, has affluence of prime-beef competition. Decidedly with service, Michael Jordan’s needs to up its game.
Michael Jordan’s Restaurant
1225 W. 22nd St., Oak Brook
630-828-2932
www.michaeljordansrestaurant.com
Tribune rating: One star
Open: Cafeteria Monday to Saturday, banquet daily
Prices: Entrees $16-$49
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Valet parking
Antonio Perez / Chicago Tribune
Arizona is the 48th accompaniment in the U.S., a factoid that should be account a bar bet anywhere but Steak 48, because that’s area the Arizona-based alternation (there’s a area in Houston, as well) gets its name.
The ancestors that created the Mastro’s alternation — brothers Jeffrey and Mike Mastro, forth with dad Dennis — apriorism Steak 48 as a added abreast booty on the archetypal steakhouse model. In practice, this agency chef-driven appetizers, added active architecture (the dining allowance at Mastro’s is as aphotic and adequate as a womb; the amplitude is lighter here, decidedly on the additional floor) and added artistic salads and desserts.
All this Steak 48 accomplishes, while sacrificing none of the steakhouse niceties. A bucket of just-baked, pull-apart aliment arrives ad-lib at the table, account is anxious after actuality overbearing, and lavender-scented hot towels arch the gap amid appetizer and capital course. The wine account is massive, and there are about 50 by-the-glass pours.
Wet-aged prime steaks — offered in baby (8- to 12-ounce) and approved (12- to 22-ounce) cuts — are after flaw, served on 500-degree plates that ensure your beef won’t lose temperature anytime soon. (I’m absolutely not a fan of plates hot abundant to balmy my eyebrows, but I accede some barter acknowledge that array of thing.) Affluence of topping options ambit from the simple (blue cheese, $5) to the absurd (black-truffle lobster, $38).
["184.3"]homespakistan------> SA Gardens | 3 Marla House Design Double StoryFun starters accommodate crabmeat, perched on a block of avocado and brittle wontons. The PB&J is a spreadable mix of pate, bourbon and fig jam, served with broiled baguette slices. A agilely poached egg crowns the Caesar salad, which appearance algid chunks of romaine, huge croutons and an chaste dressing.
When I hesitated amid the apricot or adolescent poke, my aide offered a 50-50 mix, and that’s the way you appetite to go. There’s a nice adverse amid the fish, which are absolute with Thai chiles and ambrosial togarashi sauce.
A dozen and a bisected ancillary dishes ambit from the accepted (roasted candied potatoes, buttery spinach) to the abnormal (crab and shrimp mac and cheese, shishito peppers), and there’s a twice-baked potato with Gouda, fontina and baldheaded truffles that’s so smooth, it’s like a sinfully affluent pommes puree.
Desserts are in the ooey-gooey attitude but aren’t horrifically colossal (unlike abounding steakhouses). The balmy boilerplate cake, covered with boilerplate ice chrism and candied pecans, is a accomplished option, and sometimes the kitchen will accelerate out a “beignet tree,” aloft which adhere bristles sugar-dusted beignets. Having advantaged in French Quarter beignets on added than a few occasions, I can adjure to the affection of these. Accurately done.
Steak 48
615 N. Wabash Ave.
312-266-4848
www.steak48.com
Tribune rating: Two stars
Open: Banquet daily
Prices: Steaks $39-$64; entrees $29-$54
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking
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