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Del Campo, Washington, D.C.
Smoke — that's what hits you first. The balm of candied smoke advancing off aggregate from brim steak and sweetbreads to broiled beets, mortadella, and cheese baking on a barbecue the admeasurement of an airstrip. That smoke underpins best of Peruvian chef Victor Albisu's astounding affable at Del Campo, a admirable South American restaurant in D. C.'s Chinatown.
Albisu, whose grandfathering was a Cuban chef and whose mother ran a bazaar area her son abstruse to barbecue from Argentinean and Uruguayan butchers, has created a card on which aggregate tastes as if it were able because you came to visit. Seafood and ceviches lashed with acceptable olive oil allotment plates with chiles, broiled onions, corn, yucca fries, romesco sauce, chimichurri, and salsa criolla (a appealing onion relish). The bar serves artery aliment back the kitchen closes — empanadas, albondigas (plump, dank meatballs), chicharones (fried pork), and chivitos (sandwiches blimp with seared rib eye, mortadella, ham, cheese, olives, hearts of palm, and absurd egg).
But the affection of the amount is a bowl accumulated aerial with chorizo, abbreviate ribs, rib eye, lamb shank, and pork belly, all of them gleaming, fat-rich, and abysmal red, rosy, or pink, but consistently broiled black. If the Peruvian aliment trend in the U. S. — which has been about to become a trend for a brace years now — needs a leader, Del Campo is it.
777 I Artery NW; 202-289-7377; delcampodc.com
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