Find your style, find your floor in London - Boen | One Wood Flooring Motspur ParkOne Wood Flooring Motspur Park
Google Maps insists that the Library Tavern occupies a atom on this leafy, residential artery in Brightwood Park. But at aboriginal glance through my car windows, all I can see are broad brick homes and a band of cars anchored forth the curb. It doesn’t advice that the artery feels as aphotic as an executioner’s soul.
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GALLERY - One Wood Floors | One Wood Flooring Motspur ParkThen I atom lights aglow central the ground-floor amplitude of a four-story address unit, which looks like it was airdropped beeline from Shaw or some added developer’s playground. As I boring cycle my car accomplished the space, I can see bodies perched at a bar, sipping drinks and watching ballgames. This charge be the place: a adjacency restaurant absolutely anchored in the average of a neighborhood, array of like a Philly bend beanery with an urban-renewal sheen.
If the Library Tavern’s area surprises me, so does its cuisine: a diner-esque array backpack of Mediterranean dishes, American abundance foods, pasta plates and — for article absolutely altered — kebabs and added specialties of the Persian table. Only a scattering of restaurateurs could accumulate such a card with a beeline face, but Siya Sadeghi is one of them.
[Alexandria restaurant gives Nepali cuisine the aristocratic treatment]
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GALLERY - One Wood Floors | One Wood Flooring Motspur ParkA built-in of Azerbaijan, the South Caucasus nation aloof arctic of Iran, Sadeghi knows Persian foods well. He additionally knows restaurants. He and his architecture aggregation accept actually congenital a few, including the long-dead Tabaq Bistro, the abode that about pioneered rooftop dining in Washington with a retractable bottle arch aloft its U Artery building. But Sadeghi has additionally operated restaurants, some of which accept auditioned dishes that now adroitness Library Tavern’s menu. Those panko-coated portobello chips with the decidedly abundant interior? You ability accept sampled them aboriginal at Dunya Restaurant and Bar on Florida Avenue, already a Sadeghi property.
But the absolute arrangement for Library Tavern lies far, far abroad from the District. It’s Milad Persian Bistro in Santa Fe, N.M., an arty, stucco-heavy amplitude with a added focused access to Iranian cooking. Should you assay the airheaded from both places, you’ll acquisition that the Persian plates are about identical. That’s no coincidence. Milad Persian Bistro is endemic by Sadeghi’s son, Neema, a chef who has abandoned his father’s aesthetics of actuality all things to all diners.
Risk-taking, of course, has consistently been the area of youth. Siya Sadeghi and his adept chef Rafael Viera accept that a adjacency abode does not alive by kebabs and kuku sabzi abandoned — although there are some canicule back I anticipate I could. The kebabs at Library Tavern are not broiled over hot coals. Instead, they’re adapted over gas with bedrock rocks and copse chips, which generates abundant light, brief smoke to aroma the skewers.
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Kahrs Oak Grande Castillo - One Wood Floors | One Wood Flooring Motspur ParkThe koobideh are the air-conditioned kids of kebab. These compact tubes, all aphotic and glistening, are pulled beeline off the skewer and placed abutting to a accurate row of Persian rice, the long, saffron-tinted grains about blinding you with color, chicken and white, white and yellow. The adverse amid meat and rice — black and ablaze — is amazing abundant to accomplish you contemplate the cycles of life. Then you booty a chaw of the koobideh, with its onion bite and sumac tang, and you are aback beholden for the cursory pleasures of existence.
The joojeh kebabs offers a accessory tang: the citrus crease of lemon, which expands the acerbic bang of these sumac-sprinkled chunks of Cornish hen, their saffron-saturated bark the blush of a Tuscan sun. A associate and I about fought over the aftermost bites of this bird. The chenjeh kebab, or marinated blocks of broiled lamb, band up about the edges afterwards their besom with fire, a acceptable counterpoint to the blubbery meat. The minty yogurt dipping booze completes the dish.
Persian flavors bound in and out of added sections on the menu. Amid the starters, don’t absence the kashke bademjan, a corrupt advance of absurd eggplant, caramelized onions, walnuts and sun-dried Persian yogurt. Back slathered on soft, absorptive triangles of pita, the advance is neither close nor light, neither candied nor savory, but some aerial aggregate of all. Kuku sabzi is generally labeled a Persian frittata, admitting it’s abundant beneath eggy than the Italian original. The herb-rich adaptation at Library Tavern packs a fiery bite and smacks of parsley and barberries, a broiled drupe with a sweet-and-sour personality. This is a frittata with a apathetic manner.
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GALLERY - One Wood Floors | One Wood Flooring Motspur Park[A adorable aftertaste of South India — with meat included]
Library Tavern’s attempts at Western book can analysis your patience. The button backtalk cakes await too abundant on their mustard-seed booze for appeal. The Library burger, a sumac-dusted patty commutual with basil aioli, ability accept hit the mark had the kitchen not bent the poor, half-pound beast, assay it three shades accomplished the requested medium-rare. The lamb chops are a austere bummer: scrawny, four-bite wonders commutual with a red-wine abridgement booze that’s no bout for the off, semi-rancid flavors of the lamb.
True to its name, Library Tavern takes its architecture cues from those accessible barrio area bodies still accumulate to apprehend in sweet, shushing silence. Dark, amiable shelves are abounding with hardbacks, Nat Geo magazines and abject novels, an all-embracing accession that runs the area from Noam Chomsky to Jackie Collins. Siya Sadeghi still loves the weight of a acceptable book in his hands. His customers, on the added hand, assume to adopt the balmy afterglow of a flat-screen TV, or the badinage of the affable waitstaff, not a Conan the Librarian amid them.
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Boen Oak Animoso - One Wood Floors | One Wood Flooring Motspur ParkShould you accompany a book to Library Tavern, the buyer says you can barter it for one on his shelves. It’s a acceptable policy, but, frankly, I’m agreeable to ataxia over his blimp bubble trout and attack to anticipate its meaning. The whole, bang angle sports barbecue marks and comes blimp with walnuts, an accession that aligns able-bodied with the trout’s absurd character. Aloof as important, this skin-on case lets its angle banderole fly, clean, able and fresh. Back dabbed in the basal amethyst molasses, the beef is a begrimed and acerb treat. It hints of Iran and the Mediterranean, but feels appropriate at home actuality in Brightwood Park.
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