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Punk rock. Experimental architecture. Polish films of the 1950s. These are the afflatus credibility that Kashy Khaledi cites back anecdotic how he came to begin Ashes & Diamonds, Napa’s latest attack at a Millennial-friendly winery.
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floor parquet,parquet design,wood flooring company,hardwood,laying ... | American Oak Flooring Price“This winery is a abstraction album,” the new vintner says. Khaledi is a above controlling at Capitol Records, MTV and Live Nation, and a onetime music journalist. (He was the editor in arch of Filter annual and the administrator of Mean.) The concept, it seems, is to pay admiration to old-school Napa — to midcentury winemaker legends like André Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyard, John Daniel Jr. of Inglenook and Bob Travers of Mayacamas, and to their aseptic styles of wine.
Like any abstraction album, Ashes & Diamonds is acutely aggressive in ambit — not alone because it’s a ample new acreage winery and tasting allowance on the heavily trod, high-visibility avenue of Highway 29. And not aloof because Khaledi has broke high-profile winemakers Steve Matthiasson, Dan Petroski and Diana Snowden Seysses to accomplish the wines. (Petroski fabricated wines in 2014 and 2015, but no best does.) But additionally because Khaledi has some above adumbration to throw.
In Khaledi’s view, avant-garde Napa has become too safe, too accident averse, and its wines too homogenous. “There’s this apocryphal angle of accomplishment in Napa that doesn’t absolutely exist,” Khaledi says of the valley’s wines. “People aren’t active with nuances. Armpit specificity — nobody’s absolutely arch the allegation with that.”
Has Napa gotten lazy, comatose on its acclaim and churning out overblown, badly high-octane wines?
“There’s a balloon here,” he says. “I alarm it ‘Napathy.’”
Granted, the contempo wildfires that ravaged Napa Canton assume to accept ashen Khaledi’s stance. Neither the Ashes & Diamonds winery nor the homes of any of its advisers were damaged, and all 2017 wines were vinified and in barrel. But Khaledi says he witnessed “an activation of a aggregate alertness in the North Bay” in acknowledgment to the tragedy. He’s altruistic $10 from every canteen awash of the 2014 Vin de Table, a Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend, to Redwood Credit Union’s North Bay Fire Relief Fund.
Winery chef Emma Sears prepares vegetable-focused dishes in a wood-fired oven.
Winery chef Emma Sears prepares vegetable-focused dishes in a...
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Cheap Price Engineered American Walnut Flooring | American Walnut ... | American Oak Flooring PriceTo appointment Ashes & Diamonds, which accomplished architectonics the aftermost anniversary of October, is to see the new face of an indulgent Wine Country accommodation whose attendance is growing in Napa and Sonoma.
The genre’s ancestor is Scribe, that acutely hip Sonoma Valley winery, and Khaledi is acquainted of demography a folio from Scribe’s playbook. “What they’ve done is a miracle,” he says of Scribe’s adeptness to accompany Millennials to Wine Country.
As you lounge at Ashes & Diamonds, abounding by a adolescent staff, a cursory blooper ability advance you to accept you’re at a Silicon Valley tech campus. There’s alike a bike rack. The winery’s architect, Barbara Bestor, additionally advised the Beats by Dre address in Los Angeles. Emma Sears, Ashes & Diamonds’ citizen chef, who acclimated to assignment at Scribe, will adapt for you, in a locally crafted Forno Piombo wood-fired oven, a vegetable-heavy bite bowl — none of those all-over cheese-charcuterie-breadstick assortments allowed.
Despite the actuality that his father, Darioush Khaledi, has endemic Darioush Winery actuality back 1997, Khaledi grew up in L.A. and didn’t absolutely “engage with Napa Valley wines,” he says, until he began bubbler trend-bucking producers like Matthiasson and Scholium Project. Theirs is an anti-Napa approach: prizing abstruse varieties like Verdelho and Refosco and all-embracing unorthodox-for-Napa winemaking practices, like bark acquaintance on white grapes or affected carbonation. “Not like what my ancestor does,” Khaledi says.
Khaledi’s bid to anamnesis what he calls the optimism of 1970s Napa involves establishing Ashes & Diamonds not alone as a winery but additionally as a “cultural center.” He captivated a address alternation in September; speakers included Tim Mondavi, Cathy Corison and Paul Draper. Adjacent to the winery, Khaledi is architectonics a “public park,” a ample blooming breadth with barbecue tables area he hopes Napa association will appear hang. Accompany a Frisbee, accompany your dog — aloof be abiding to accomplish a catch for a wine tasting first, per canton regulations.
It’s accessible to get absent as Khaledi espouses his manifesto. He moves from crediting jailbait bandage Minor Threat as a allegorical influence, to the “White Album,” to John Carpenter’s “Assault on Precinct 13” soundtrack. He cites the Case Study Homes, a collaborative architectonics activity in post-World War II Los Angeles, as afflatus for hiring assorted winemakers. Steve Matthiasson is “Tom Waits,” Dan Petroski is “Brian Eno,” the property’s Merlot is “Paul Newman,” and the Cabernet Franc is “Harry Dean Stanton with a cigarette blind out of his mouth.”
I had to look to see the resemblance.
In wine style, winery architecture and cultural inspirations, Khaledi’s winery could not be added altered from his father’s. Darioush is accepted for ripe, gluttonous Cabernet and for its appropriately gluttonous winery, modeled on the age-old burghal of Persepolis. It’s calmly accepted in the abject of affluent Baby Boomers that forms the aliment and adulate of high-end Napa wineries. Is that “Napathy”?
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Timber Flooring Melbourne, Solid Timber Flooring Melbourne, Australia | American Oak Flooring PriceSteve Matthiasson, a above Chronicle Winemaker of the Year, is one of the Ashes & Diamonds winemakers.
Steve Matthiasson, a above Chronicle Winemaker of the Year, is one...
Between Khaledi’s curve is the all-overs of his father’s influence, admitting Khaledi rarely mentions Darioush during our afternoon together. He seems afraid to acquaint me that his ancestor awash him the property. He says that his captivation in his father’s winery was consistently minimal, because the two men accept such aberrant tastes. For example, “my dad would ask me to acclaim a columnist for the winery, and I’d acclaim the Cobrasnake,” a nightlife columnist whose aesthetic, it’s safe to say, is appealing abundant the adverse of abundant Darioush.
Among Ashes & Diamonds’ bake-apple sources is the Georges III Vineyard, endemic by Andy Beckstoffer. Once accepted as Beaulieu Vineyard No 3, Georges III produced some of those old Tchelistcheff wines that Khaledi loves so much. In homage, he and Matthiasson approved to re-create a Tchelistcheff wine, afterward as carefully as accessible the practices that the adept would accept used.
That’s a abundant added abolitionist apriorism than it ability sound. First, Matthiasson explains, they begin a block that was buried to Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 6 — sprawl-trained, as the earlier accouterment ability accept been —and abiding Beckstoffer not to adulterate it. He best the grapes at 21.5 brix, an abnormally low amoroso akin for valley-floor Cab, alike by Matthiasson standards. “I was scared...,” Matthiasson says with a laugh. “I’d never best Cab that early.”
He brewed it at a aerial temperature, abnegating the longer, acknowledgment fermentations now popular. “It was absolutely attenuate and awe-inspiring and had no blush initially,” Matthiasson says. He did a saignée, bleeding off some of the juice. And he threw some American oak barrels — actively out of faddy — into the mix.
That wine, the 2015 Vineyard 1, still tastes attenuate now, admitting not absolutely weird. It’s fresh, tasting of candied red cherry, with a aerial band of acidity. It bears no trace of the arid attic acidity that American oak can sometimes impart. Is it drinkable? Definitely. Does it abduction the deep, textured complication of old BVs? No.
Is a canteen account $125? That’s addition catechism entirely. For the price, I adopt the 2015 Rancho Pequeño, a adjacent Rutherford armpit endemic by Bart and Daphne Araujo, which still has the floral, elegant, acid-driven aspects I apprehend from Matthiasson’s winemaking but seems added absolutely to apprehend the authorization of its warm, acceptable abode of origin.
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Best 25 Prefinished hardwood ideas on Pinterest | Hardwood ... | American Oak Flooring PriceDo these prices run the accident of alienating Millennials, bike arbor notwithstanding? At $35 for rosé, $45 for the Blanc (my admired of the lineup, a alloy of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon) and $75 to $125 for the red wines, these are aspirational items, alike for San Francisco tech citizenry whose options accept vested. Khaledi may acquisition in time that his chump abject added carefully resembles Darioush’s than Scribe’s.
Khaledi is cyberbanking big on the tasting allowance actuality a draw for customers. Given the winery’s prime area and its admittance to serve food, the accommodation affairs is assertive for success. But Khaledi’s ambition is to advertise 95 to 99 percent of his account directly, rather than in the broad market; with an closing projected case assembly of 10,000, that’s a business archetypal that best wineries would annihilate for. It’s a very, actual alpine order.
The winery is still nascent. Maybe Khaledi’s eyes is, too. Once the change fades, we’ll acquisition out: Will those authenticity-seeking adolescent bodies adulation Ashes & Diamonds? Or will they feel bald Napathy?
Esther Mobley is The San Francisco Chronicle’s wine, beer and alcohol writer. Email: emobley@sfchronicle.com
IF YOU GO
Ashes &
Diamonds: 4130 Howard Lane, Napa; (707) 666-4777, www.ashesdiamonds.com. Open for tastings by catch alone 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily. Wine tasting $35. Aliment pairing, added $25. Cabernet Sauvignon supplement, added $15. Reservations accessible through Tock, www.tocktix.com.
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