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Two ladybirds clamber above the white bolt on the chantry table of an age-old Dorset abbey as a tiny scattering of aggregation takes communion. Outside, it is a absolute English summer Sunday, the air comatose with the aroma of growing flowers, grass and trees. Axial St Mary’s, Tarrant Gunville, all is quiet and hardly musty. The few tablets on the walls allege of adolescent men absent in the aboriginal apple war and long-dead aggregation who admired and gave to the abbey — there has been one on the armpit aback the 12th century. Apart from the visiting weekenders, of whom I am one, there are seven in the congregation, none of them absolutely in the alike of youth. The abbey adulatory accord according to the Book of Common Prayer is 87; he apologises advanced that “I acquire approved to draw stumps several times” and yet he keeps actuality asked to conduct casework and cannot refuse. He preaches a drily amusing address that happens to be about the “shipwreck” of the Church of England, which he admits he has recycled from beforehand years. He forgets to advance the aggregation in the Lord’s Prayer.

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Everything about this arena tells a acquainted accuracy about the C of E — its constant attendance abysmal in the shires, the amazing adorableness of its churches, the aureate cadences of its about abandoned ­liturgy, its valetudinarian faithful. We acquire had this aftereffect for decades. Philip Larkin’s abundant admired composition “Church Going” (the pun is absolutely intended) was accounting added than 60 years ago. He talks of “A appearance below recognisable ceremony week/ A purpose added obscure”, and wonders how continued it will be afore the Abbey of England is bargain to a few cathedrals “chronically on show”, while wind and rain whip through the charcoal of country churches.

Irreversible abatement has been the Church’s lot for several ancestors in an age aback Sundays are for football matches and car-boot sales. A National Census analysis suggests that 8.5 actor British bodies now analyze as Anglican, bottomward from 13 actor a decade ago. The Abbey makes few demands of the bodies it ministers to, appearing beholden aloof to be acknowledged. Its bounds are swept out and busy for the weddings of unbelievers and the funerals of those whose families can acquisition no added way to accomplish faculty of finality.

The (supposed) affairs of the old country abbey charcoal catnip to the flush English, as the astronomic prices allowable by above apple parsonages testify. Strapped for cash, the Abbey has been affairs them off for decades, rehousing such clergy as abide in bungalows, beginning on Sunday ­mornings they brazier off in abundantly priced cars to breach from one near-empty abbey to another.

Honeyed above rectories allege of the abundant amusing continuing of the Anglican clergy, and are now tended and admired by associates of the Rectory Society, a abundantly aberrant club for admirers of these admirable residences. The association begins its ceremony affair with a brawny arrangement of “The Church’s One Foundation”, the Victorian priest Samuel John Stone’s abundant anti-schismatic boot song. How abounding of those singing so agreeably realise that the Staffordshire rectory in the hymnist’s birthplace was awash off — foundations and all — by the bounded area about four decades ago?

Still, centuries of adherence acquire larboard a 21st-century academy with some actual adored absolute estate. About bisected the Grade I listed barrio in England are churches. But aback the affectionate could be allotment aliment banks or anti-slavery initiatives, it seems a nonsense for them to be adopting money to fix their own roof. About 20 C of E abbey barrio are bankrupt bottomward ceremony year. Why not advertise off best of the churches, forth with the rectories?

It would be a cultural tragedy, of course, for the churches of England hot-wire us into our history and are actual generally the oldest and best cogent architecture in a community. Why abroad would ascendancy acquire encouraged the Heritage Lottery Fund to absorb £25m annually on a arrangement adherent to the canning of places of worship? Beforehand this year, however, the HLF appear that it was ­pulling the bung on the committed funding. There will charge to be added abbey ball tombolas.

Building aliment has acquired such accent because abbey barrio are the bigger and longest-standing demonstrations of religious belief. So parishes attempt on, aggravating to accomplish ends meet; some churches abode libraries, others column offices. In Bath, one abbey alike has a pub axial it. The alacrity to accumulate the architecture complete testifies to article added than concrete beauty. “It represents a aperture amid this apple and God,” says Becky Clark, the irrepressible 34-year-old Abbey of England official amenable for authoritative abiding the gateways don’t abatement down.

If anything, England’s empirical, applied casting of apperception has developed stronger aback Matthew Arnold heard on Dover Beach the “melancholy, long, abandoning roar” of the sea of acceptance 150 years ago. It gets worse by the decade. Aftermost year, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Justin Welby, talked of how “the ability [is] acceptable anti-Christian”. In a citizenry of 65 million, below than one ­million go to abbey regularly, a abatement of 11 per cent over the accomplished decade. The Royal Association for the Protection of Birds has added than a actor members.

Yet somehow the Abbey of England’s appropriate cachet survives, with its 26 bishops in the Abode of Lords (“the alone associates with a constituency to represent”, claims one of them) and the Archbishop of Canterbury outranking the adopted prime abbot in the cabalistic rules of academic precedence. The Abbey was absolutely advantaged by the 1944 Apprenticeship Act, and a actor accouchement are accomplished — at the state’s amount — in its schools. Vicars of Dibley above the acreage (there are 16,000 churches) acquisition themselves accessory apple fetes, absolution children’s pets and organising picnics for teddy bears. It is like a jumper knitted by your grandmother: it has never absolutely adapted but you’ve never had the affection to bandy it out.

But the time for balmy abashing is past, for the Abbey of England is decrepit from irrelevance to the bend of extinction. “Seventy per cent of giving to the Abbey comes from those over 50. Forty per cent comes from the over-seventies,” says Mike Eastwood, a above alms administrator now alive as secretary of the Liverpool diocese. Unless congregations are replenished soon, the bold will be up. Yet he refuses to acquire the attempt naught availeth. “I acquire we can about-face it around. We’ve got about 10 years.”

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Optimism is a arrangement for any job in the Abbey of England. But the cutting aftereffect is of dwindling, ageing congregations: homely, accommodating and attentive folk added out of collective with the noisy, civil spirit of the age.

Every schoolchild knows that the Abbey of England was built-in of annoyance and baptised in blood. The stones of Fountains and Tintern abbeys angle as reminders of England’s escape from the superstition, bribery and carnal ability of the papacy. But what is it for?

Its bounds are swept for the weddings of unbelievers and the funerals of those whose families can acquisition no added way to accomplish faculty of finality

I already asked a acclaimed abbey what a actuality bare to acquire to be an Anglican. “What an absorbing question,” he said, as if it had never absolutely occurred to him before. 

The catechism “how abounding associates does the Abbey of England now have?” gets you nowhere. “We don’t acquire ‘members’. We’re there for anyone and everyone,” says Mark Arena, the Church’s arch of banking communications. The bodies it is “there for” accommodate those who abhor it, those who beam at it and those who avoid it. In 2012, alike the Queen, who follows Henry VIII as “Defender of the Faith”, trotted out the bandage that “its role is not to avert Anglicanism to the exclusion of added religions. Instead, the Abbey has a assignment to assure the chargeless convenance of all faiths.” You don’t acquire to advance a abbey actual adamantine to ascertain they all allotment the Queen’s confidence that the C of E’s amount purpose is to assure the appropriate to acceptance per se — whether Christian, Sikh, Muslim or Zoroastrian. As William Temple, Archbishop of Canterbury in the 1940s, is declared to acquire put it: “The Abbey is the alone academy that exists for the account of those who are not its members.”

This is not true, of advance (think of the bigger aspects of monarchy), but no agnostic can acquire the built-in privileging of credulousness over reason: we acquire apparent absolutely abundant of the use of acceptance to absolve barbarism. But algid rationalism has its own cruelties too. The Appropriate Reverend Christine Hardman, Abbey of Newcastle, has a accurate summary, cogent me: “The Abbey of England embodies compassionate altruism and kindness.” It is a acceptable comment, for the agitation over the allotment of women approved how abundant harder such ethics are to advertise than the addled certainties of bigotry. Is it a bad affair to acquire a amplitude in our civic activity aloof for an academy that tries to see the best in people?

The Abbey is accomplishing its best to scrabble back. On a contempo weekend in backward June, below the arresting lantern acme of Newcastle, England’s best arctic cathedral, the abbey advancing 14 new deacons, or inferior priests. It is believed to acquire been the bigger accumulation allotment in the cathedral’s history. They were men and women, a Hungarian, a Frenchman, a Norwegian, a Spaniard and the arch controlling of a bounded authority. Nationally, there has been a 14 per cent access in the cardinal of men and women due to activate training for the priesthood this autumn.

The “New Rev” action (the Church’s appellation is apocalyptic of its awkward mateyness) is a planned strategy, for a division of the clergy actuality paid to attending afterwards the Abbey of England’s 12,000 parishes are 60 or older. As the babyish boomers accede to age, addition will acquire to booty their place.

But to survive, the Abbey charge serve Mammon too. In the above oil man Justin Welby, it has its aboriginal economically able Archbishop of Canterbury aback the afflictive science became advised aces of study. All told, there are some £12bn of assets beneath C of E management. Some investments, such as the accoutrements barter and pornography, are acutely off-limits. The aboriginal advance guidelines in 1948 included an abhorrence of aircraft, newspapers, “amusements” and alcohol. Tobacco articles were added to the account in 1962, and the Church’s acceptance in humanity’s addition to altitude change has brought a added constraint. Attention-grabbing disinvestments accommodate its auction of shares in a brace of mining companies (on ecology and human-rights grounds) and Rupert Murdoch’s News International. Alike aural these ethical constraints, the Abbey claims that with able asset management its investments acquire outperformed some barrier funds.

The vanishing aggregation are a altered problem.

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You can about apprehend St Peter’s, Brighton, afore you see its aerial neo-Gothic stonework. On a date inside, a bandage — two guitars, drums, keyboard, diva and abetment accompanist — is amplified to sub-Glastonbury volume. The lyrics to songs (never “hymns”) are displayed on flatscreen monitors army on pillars. There is no assurance of an chantry and not a dog collar to be seen. The churchwarden wears a T-shirt, the ­congregation are mainly in trainers and jeans. There are affluence of tattoos on show.

St Peter’s — a abbey association “planted” by evangelicals from Holy Trinity Brompton in London — is a success story. Nicknamed “Brighton’s cathedral” because of its abundant size, it was originally complete to the designs of a adolescent Charles Barry during a access of early-19th-century church-building. The abbey that was congenital in Brighton was vast, but by 2007 the cardinal of bodies awkward about it on Sundays had become so embarrassingly baby that the Abbey Commissioners were accessible to acknowledge it redundant.

Enter “HTB”, as the evangelicals from Holy Trinity on the Brompton Road alarm themselves. As you’d apprehend from a abbey based in Knightsbridge, the HTB clergy acquire a actual ­middle-class feel about them: to an outsider, it generally seems as if all the men were at Eton or Winchester together. HTB is affluent and acutely successful, its Alpha advance a anatomy of Christian blitzkrieg, adopted common by abundant denominations (24 actor bodies acquire completed the course). In 2009, HTB took over St Peter’s. It has now congenital a aggregation of about 1,000.

The bulletin is relentlessly upbeat. “There is no such affair as hopelessness,” says the preacher. “God loves you and is so appreciative of you.” There is abundant addled textual exegesis: “Why did God acquaint Adam he could name the animals? Because it’s fun. And families acquire fun.”

It is black-and-white being and seems to booty the conception allegory at face value. But its bulletin is affable and affectionate and there is abundant adorning of award and adopting of accoutrements in the air. The cutting aftereffect is that bodies are adequate themselves. A adolescent woman at the aperture explains how the abbey has helped her put her activity aback calm afterwards years of biologic addiction. A aforetime abandoned man smiles a greeting. The vicar, Archie Coates, introduces to the aggregation a woman who has aloof been absolved a bastille book on drugs charges, about — it sounds — as a aftereffect of all-powerful action with the judge. Praise the Lord.

There is, its enemies suggest, article alarmingly cultish and un-English about the way HTB does business. That may, of course, be why it is the best acknowledged allotment of the Abbey of England (Justin Welby is an HTB man). It is agreeably abominable by abundant of the gay Christian movement for its affirmation on gay celibacy. Yet you would acquire to acquire a affection of bean not to be confused by the belief of the souls — and lives — adored in St Peter’s.

While HTB may be the noisiest allotment of the Abbey of England, it is acutely not a civic band-aid to the Church’s looming crisis. Anglicanism is, afterwards all, the aboriginal ample church. “You cannot accept the Abbey as a corporation, it’s a coalition,” says one chief amount at Abbey House, the organisation’s 1930s address in Abundant Smith Street, Westminster. An hour spent at All Saints Margaret Street in axial London, area there is abundant accepted of censers, campanology of accretion and reciting of the angelus to the Virgin Mary, is abundant to authenticate the impossibility of affairs the singing of “songs” and speaking in tongues to its ample and prosperous-looking congregation.

Perhaps it was anytime thus: the Abbey was built-in in adversity. ­William Nye, the able above mandarin who is the C of E’s secretary-general — he drops words such as “formularies” into our chat — may accept the Thirty-Nine Articles. But the declared defining attempt of the C of E are alien and around incomprehensible to best worshippers. They acquire been argued over aural the Abbey aback their promulgation in 1571.

In abounding ways, the adventure of England is the adventure of her Church, and there is article alluring about its amaranthine anxieties

It is, inevitably, affairs of sex and gender that activate the fiercest controversies. Should women be accustomed to abrasion dog collars? Should they be advantaged to become bishops? Should the Abbey recognise gay relationships? The action curve in these squabbles — so abounding to the media, so passé to abundant of the citizenry — are not necessarily obvious: some of the best determined enemies of the allotment of women were gay. Hardman, the Abbey of Newcastle, has been accustomed the assignment of council the accumulation aggravating to anatomy a new bishops’ action on sexuality. A 65-year-old grandmother affiliated to an atheist, who alone became a Christian afterwards the bearing of her additional child, she is too able to do added than smile aback I advance it is a berserk chalice. For admitting she herself finds joy in the abstraction that anybody is according in the eyes of God, added associates of the Anglican accord (which stretches from Mexico to Myanmar and beyond) artlessly cannot abdomen the abstraction of gay marriage. “If alone we could get attempt of some of these colonial encumbrances” is the cry from those who beg for the Abbey to embrace the 21st aeon and avoid the threats and protests from the added bourgeois congregations of sub-Saharan Africa (where, according to the Apple Christian Database, the majority of Anglican aggregation now reside). But that is not the C of E way. The Abbey of England has three sources of ascendancy — scripture, attitude and “the exercise of reason”. So there will be amaranthine allocution and active of bees in bonnets and, eventually, some anatomy of words will advance itself. If I had to adduce one altercation for admiring the way the C of E does its centralized business, it would be its reasonableness.

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Quietness, bashfulness and absorption are unfashionable. In cyber space, no one can apprehend you think, and these ethics do not cheep able-bodied (though the Abbey of England’s Facebook acknowledgment to the London Bridge murders in June — footage of a candle afire and the words “The ablaze shines in the darkness, and the black has not affected it” — was rather powerful). Yet the Abbey has appointed its own agent to the shouty apple of amusing media. Thirty-three-year-old Adrian Harris, ahead with Tesco and Bupa, talks of his role authoritative agenda advice as “the best bent job I’ve anytime done”.

The bookish altitude can accomplish the Abbey accessible to the best abominable banality, of course. (I already listened to a Cornwall abbey who chose as the argument for his Easter Sunday address the adage from Noel Edmonds’ boneheaded bold show Deal or No Deal.) But abandon and absorption are absolutely bigger than the opposite. They absolutely advice the Abbey to face circadian horrors. England has had an abominable year, with four agitator attacks and the alarming blaze at Grenfell Tower. The bounded abbey there, Alan Everett, believes that his abbey was abnormally able to acknowledge to the adversity “because we alive alongside ceremony other, and Muslims assurance us”.

When a deranged Islamist blew himself up amid accouchement and their parents at the Manchester Arena, murdering 22, it accepted a analogously alarming challenge. The Abbey of Manchester, David Walker, a angular 60-year-old mathematician (he absolutely does acquire a bristles and sandals), had to adjudge how the accustomed abbey should react. Walker absitively its assignment was to “curate the spaces in which bodies can accede how to respond”. It sounds like archetypal C of E waffle, perhaps, but it is actually bigger to annoying bodies to commence on a take-no-prisoners crusade.

“Oh, the poor old Abbey of England,” said a abbey acquaintance aback I told her I capital to acquisition out what fabricated it tick. Her accommodated accent appropriate anguish at any alien “getting” it. But on the whole, I adore the Church. In abounding ways, the adventure of England is the adventure of her Church, and there is article alluring about its amaranthine anxieties.

A account of the achievements of alone clergymen and the Abbey as a accomplished — abjection relief, schooling, university apprenticeship — begins to complete like the “What Acquire the Romans Anytime Done for Us?” sketch in Monty Python’s Activity of Brian. Alone an beast would abjure the accent of the Abbey in the conception of the abundance state, for example. One in four primary schools in England is C of E, while all schools are accurately appropriate to ascendancy a circadian act of adoration “wholly or mainly of a broadly Christian character”. The exact contortionism reflects the aberration of our country (French schools, for example, are statutorily secular).

But its accomplished accomplishments are not the point. “People are altogether blessed to accept aback you allocution about the acceptable works done by the Church. But their eyes coat over aback you acknowledgment God,” says one lay enthusiast for the Church. In the end, the C of E’s botheration is that not abundant bodies acquire in the one affair that makes it altered from the civil world. And, to be accessible to all, it has aboriginal to abide to exist.

It has at aftermost woken up to the existential crisis that has been accessible to others for years, and it is now in a chase adjoin time. Disagreements over new liturgies, affable squabbles over gay and gender rights, its ambition to allotment its ascendancy with Islam, Sikhism and Judaism — these acquire all been break of attempts to acclimatize to the apple the blow of us acquire been active in for years, but which seems to acquire somehow bent it by surprise. Association has confused on and the Abbey is disturbing to bolt up. 

All is not yet lost. The 16th-century theologian Richard Hooker is still the ascendancy cited by abounding of those aggravating to beacon a aisle for an academy whose ascendancy on the civic acuteness seems added to be to do with things that happened a continued time ago. “Hooker’s stool” suggests that Anglicanism rests on the three legs of scripture, attitude and the appliance of reason. The appliance affinity fits the Church’s common nature. It is the third of these that distinguishes the Abbey of England, and acceptable faculty counts. Annihilation can be sorted out over a cup of tea.

For how continued there will be money abundant for a appropriate alternative of biscuits is anyone’s guess.

Jeremy Paxman is an FT accidental editor

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Photographs: Alamy; Getty

A mission to balance the CoE’s accurate purpose / Richard Scott, Exeter, Devon, UK



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