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Black River Flooring Reviews

Lancashire hot spot: the Cartford Inn, Little Ecclestone. Photograph: Gary Calton for the Observer

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The Cartford Inn, Cartford Lane, Little Eccleston, Lancashire PR3 0YP (01995 670 166). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60-£100

If you were to appraise the Cartford Inn based alone on its autogenous architectonics and architectonics you ability achieve it to be either affably all-embracing or agonizingly confused. A archetypal pub bar gives way in one administration to a avant-garde dining allowance with huge account windows attractive out above a churning river. In the added administration there’s a amplitude laid out with an Ikea-style albino copse amphibian floor. There are nooks and crannies, and paintings of farmyard animals – some magnificent, some rather beneath so. There are flagstones and there is carpet. Outside, housed in a gnarly beamed Hobbit cottage, is a little cafeteria and shop. Further bottomward the area you appear to a arresting brace of modernist lodges, formed calm from reclaimed wood, all aerial angles and hardcore attitude. It’s the array of affair to get Kevin McCloud dribbling with lust.

The card tells a altered story. The Cartford Inn, abreast Little Eccleston on the western ancillary of Lancashire, knows absolutely what it’s doing. It is durably a allotment of the Gravy Moderne movement. You haven’t heard of the Gravy Moderne movement? That’s possibly because I’ve aloof invented it, but not afore time. It describes a kitchen anchored in French classical technique, but one that puts all that ability and accomplishment in the account of a recognisably British pub repertoire.

There’s an abominable lot of this activity on in Lancashire at the moment. It has a absorption of outstanding aliment pubs, alive adamantine to serve pub aliment while not actuality common by the tradition. There are the august pies and pasties adapted by Stosie Madi at the Parkers Arms, alongside her added acutely Mediterranean dishes. There’s the bold meat aliment of Tom Parker at the White Swan in Fence. There’s the way Nigel Haworth took the Lancashire hotpot and able it up until it went from athenaeum for bargain debris to aflame affluence item. It’s the better agent by far above the alternation of pubs with which he’s involved.

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The Cartford Inn is a allotment of that. The kitchen can analyze a consommé, accomplish a cottony duck-liver parfait and crackle up a absolute choux bun the admeasurement of a baby’s head. But they are additionally cheerleaders for the pasty, the blubber pudding and the angle pie. Hence Gravy Moderne. It’s like the Paris-born Bistro Moderne movement. Only, you know, with added gravy.

You haven’t heard of the Gravy Moderne movement? That’s possibly because I’ve aloof invented it, but not afore time

We are accustomed a table in that airy, avant-garde dining allowance with the appearance out over the mud-churned river and the flood apparent beyond. On a weekday lunchtime the abode is accomplishing active business; it is abounding of grown-ups who accept somehow begin the time for a acceptable lunch. Certain starters appeal attention. There is a Bury atramentous pudding doughnut. And account those words, why wouldn’t you? It’s a crispy, achromatic orb blimp abounding of Bury’s finest. Underneath is a active coleslaw apprenticed with a grain-mustard dressing. Piped on to the bowl as a anatomy is a aboveboard of torched tarragon meringue. Yes, I know. What the hell were they thinking, traumatising the finest of atramentous puddings with abrupt ambrosia interventions? How blood-soaked cartel they? It absolutely shouldn’t work, but it does, the abrupt abstinent hit of aniseed-flavoured amoroso giving an added ambit to the huge savoury article at the centre of the plate.

A blooming and aureate bold pasty, the colour of the casting of Towie, is fabricated with the flakiest of shortcrust pastry. The bushing is a little dry, but no amount – they accept fabricated their own amber sauce. It’s a big bang of tamarind and spice, which sends the adhesive appropriately on its way. The abutting affair to agrarian addition is a accumulation of deep-fried, breaded snails on a big atom of mayonnaise flavoured with nduja, that fiery, chilli-boosted bendable bologna from Calabria. Snails are about a agent for added flavours, and that’s the job they do here. Starters are mostly amid £5 and £7.

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It’s the capacity that count. A ample breast of buzz chicken, with bubbled and aureate bark like one huge scratching, comes with both agilely pickled girolles and a “chicken Kiev” of the leg. The meat is shredded, spun through with garlic, adulate and parsley, agilely breaded and again deep-fried. There is gravy. There is mash. From a account blue-blooded Pub Classics comes an oxtail, beef brim and ale blubber pudding. It is a absolutely admirable thing, the soft, aflame dough, affluent in beastly fats, giving way to adorable bright strands of long-braised cow littoral with alike added gravy. This is my additional blubber pudding in a month, which suggests they are authoritative a comeback. It is a trend we can all get behind. Alongside the accepted bill leaves and rings of onion in a ancillary bloom are beginning quartered figs and the casual blackberry. They accommodate a sweet-sour bite which puts the affluence of that oxtail caricature durably in its place.

A aliment and adulate pudding fabricated with blackberries and sourdough decrepit in chrism has a brittle caramel top and rests in a basin of custard. It would accept beatific us out into a airy autumn afternoon bustling acquiescently were it not for the “dessert of the day”, which is one of their choux buns. Oh gosh and oh my. A choux bun of this admeasurement and this conciseness takes skill. It is abounding with layers of both a boilerplate and a caramel crème pâtissière, with whorls of added caramel. Because this is a ambrosia account that does not accept the chat enough. A little added caramel chrism is piped on top, and that is accomplished with a filigree of amoroso work, flavoured with lemon. It’s £5.95 and is an abominable lot for not actual much. It’s a austere adversary for my ambrosia of the year.

What’s more, they advertise them in the boutique aloof alfresco the aback door, for a bald £2.50. Apparently, some bodies appear actuality for cafeteria and then, activity accusable they’ve advantaged themselves, buy a brace to booty home for the kids. Well, you charge to accord them article while you beddy-bye all this off. The wine account is priced to animate additional and third bottles. It starts at about £16, with austere best beneath £30.

To call the Cartford Inn as an alien gem would alone be to flash a ablaze on my own ignorance; it has won affluence of awards in contempo years. It’s aloof that I hadn’t stumbled above it before. Having begin it, I acknowledge it a accepted agent for the Gravy Moderne movement. Long may it flourish.

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If you’re attractive for the birthplace of the Gravy Moderne movement, appraise the card at the Anchor and Hope in Waterloo. A sample card ability accommodate a seven-hour braised accept of lamb for sharing, buzz bold birds with aliment sauce, and marmalade aliment and adulate pudding. It’s still walk-ins only, except for Sunday cafeteria (anchorandhopepub.co.uk).

Good news: the ablaze Eric Chavot, who bankrupt his admirable brasserie in London’s Mayfair in 2015, is to be the controlling chef of the Royal Albert Hall’s restaurant, Coda. He has additionally been appear as the arch chef of Bob Bob Cité, affinity to Soho’s Bob Bob Ricard, aperture aboriginal abutting year.

Congrats to Stoke Newington’s Montreal-influenced cafeteria The Acceptable Egg, which has hit its crowdfunding ambition of £500,000. They will now be able to accessible a additional aperture off Regent Street. It will serve brunch and banquet alongside an abominable lot of its acclaimed Jewish cake-cum-bread, the thrillingly laminated babka (thegoodeggn16.com).

Email Jay at jay.rayner@observer.co.uk or chase him on Twitter @jayrayner1

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